M45 wheels...which spacers look best?
M45 wheels...which spacers look best?
Did a bunch of searching and I know that 5mm up front is mandatory. Some recommend 10mm all around and some have gone higher. What spacer makes the tire sit flush for front and rear? I'm at stock ride height, but may be installing 350z suspension with coupe rear springs. Just don't want to rub.
Also I heard that removing factory lugs to install extended lugs can be difficult. Is this true? I would think you could just bang them out.
Thanks for your help.
Also I heard that removing factory lugs to install extended lugs can be difficult. Is this true? I would think you could just bang them out.
Thanks for your help.
Did some more searching and found one guy that did 15mm all around and only had issues up front when hitting a dip at freeway speeds. He looked like he had more than 1" drop so 15mm may work for me.
Any more info would be greatly appreciated!
Any more info would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks guys. I'm leaning towards 15mm spacers. Just hope it won't rub if I give it a mild drop. I'll keep searching for an answer.
I actually have 5mm spacer and extended lugs, but don't know how to swap out the lugs. It looks like I'll have to remove the rotor, but not sure.
I actually have 5mm spacer and extended lugs, but don't know how to swap out the lugs. It looks like I'll have to remove the rotor, but not sure.
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^ it's almost not worth re-studding the whole car just for 5mm - if you're going to do it, i would look into at least 15mm, as you said. your stud length should accomodate for the extra width. put the suspension in first, get your alignment done, then check to see how much clearance you have after... with M45 wheels, you should not have problems with the amount of drop a stock 350Z suspension gives
i would also avoid studding the car for 5mm and trying to fit a 15mm spacer on the studs meant for 5 - youll just end up breaking the studs from load... do it once, do it right..
to swap studs, you will need to remove the rotor, but not the hub assembly from the axle
lastly, i would recommend using a valve puller to push out the studs from the hub... avoid banging them out with a hammer as that may be detrimental to the hub bearing... pm OH6 G35 for a pic of what that tool looks like
i would also avoid studding the car for 5mm and trying to fit a 15mm spacer on the studs meant for 5 - youll just end up breaking the studs from load... do it once, do it right..
to swap studs, you will need to remove the rotor, but not the hub assembly from the axle
lastly, i would recommend using a valve puller to push out the studs from the hub... avoid banging them out with a hammer as that may be detrimental to the hub bearing... pm OH6 G35 for a pic of what that tool looks like
I have to disagree with not using the extended studs with a 5mm spacer. I tested to see how much the lug nut make up changed and it was substantial. OEM make up is 9.5 turns, with 5mm spacer it's only 6.5 turns.
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^ never said that, but i do agree that you SHOULD use extended studs even for 5mm... IMO, it's just not worth doing for a minimal amount of spacing required.
i say - if youre going to go through the whole process of re-studding the whole car, might as well go as wide as you possibly can
i say - if youre going to go through the whole process of re-studding the whole car, might as well go as wide as you possibly can
when i had m45 rims with 245/40R19 potenzas re050 on, the wheel will be pressed against suspension arm unless a spacer was installed. 5mm will allow it to rotate freely but after going back to stock 18's, i could still see where the rim and tire ocassionally rubbed the suspension arm from the hard turns. 15mm would have been nice but man thouse spacers got more expensive as you go thicker... i used a large gear puller i borrowed from a cousin.... took some time but it was better than beating the hell out of the studs to knock them out which didn't work so hence the gear puller method. Plus didn't want to affect the bearings...
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