Shimy and shaking at higher speeds?
Re: Shimy and shaking at higher speeds?
I test drove both a sport and non sport ... ended up buying the non sport becasue I could hardly feel any difference and I hated that platinum color on the center console.
Glad to hear you are all set ... they changed my tires before figuring out that it was the balance too. Waste of 8 tires
2003.5 5AT Sedan Black/Black Premium/Winter Packages
Glad to hear you are all set ... they changed my tires before figuring out that it was the balance too. Waste of 8 tires
2003.5 5AT Sedan Black/Black Premium/Winter Packages
Re: Shimy and shaking at higher speeds?
Glad to hear all is well now. But I must warn you. Any dealer that cannot properly diagnose a balance issue before putting on new tires is incompetent. If there is another dealer in your area, I would switch.
My car has 100 miles. I too had the 60+ shimmy problem. Took it to NTB and they rebalanced the tires for $35. All is well now. By the way, I went from each tire having two small weights to each tire having 4-6 weights.
Originally Posted by DesiG
your disc brake rotors are warped...have them cut and re-surfaced that will for sure take care of the problem....if that doesnt work then one of your control arms may be loose....
Glad to hear that your car is back to normal. I hope the dealer didn't make you pay for any of this. I know I wouldn't! I'm glad I made sure I drove the exact car I purchased, and not just a "tester". I would have been under the same assumption as you that they 2 cars should drive the same (both being "new"). Lesson learned: drive the exact car before signing your autograph!
Enjoy your G.. I'm loving every mile of mine, especially when I head down to the the strip where all the highschool hondas hang out (no offense they have some nice cars with their mods). I love the look on their face when they see my G.
Enjoy your G.. I'm loving every mile of mine, especially when I head down to the the strip where all the highschool hondas hang out (no offense they have some nice cars with their mods). I love the look on their face when they see my G.
I had this exact issue with my car after I picked it up and as it turned out there was a set of wheel weights that was missing from the front passenger side rim. Make sure you car is properly balanced!
I handle the alignment stations for a major OEM and can tell you that there are many things that can influence tire wear as well as steering feel. I'll try to make it quick and simple. As an engineer I'm naturally long winded and like to go into too much detail.
1) the dealer and the manufacturer have different alignment specifications. I use a +/-.06 degree tolerance for Toe wheras the dealer is told to use a +/-.12 (twice as high)
2) incorrect toe settings will make your car steer faster but will cause premature tire wear. For a tire to wear out in 1400 miles means that the toe difference would have had to be in the range of .5 degrees out of specifications.
3) Incorrect Caster could cause premature tire wear and a shaking at higher speed. It would also make the car want to go straight and not go easily into corners.
4) incorrect camber will cause your car to pull to one side more than the other.
5) Toe values that are too high on one side verses the other will cause a car's steering wheel to be off center when driving in a straight line.
There are other factors as well but if it were me, I would see if someone had the following specifications: Front and Rear Toe (left and right), Total Toe, Toe Difference, Front and Rear Camber (left and right) Cross Camber, Caster (left and right), and Thrust angle (how well the rear axle is alligned to the front axle). I would then ask the dealer to align the car with the following tolerances: Toe should be +/-.06 degrees, Camber and Caster should be +/-.5 degrees, Cross Camber should be +/-.33 degrees, and Total Toe should be +/-.12 degrees.
Once a car is properly aligned, it should feel solid in a straight line as well as corners and from low speeds to high speeds.
Hope this helps and wasn't too ling winded.
1) the dealer and the manufacturer have different alignment specifications. I use a +/-.06 degree tolerance for Toe wheras the dealer is told to use a +/-.12 (twice as high)
2) incorrect toe settings will make your car steer faster but will cause premature tire wear. For a tire to wear out in 1400 miles means that the toe difference would have had to be in the range of .5 degrees out of specifications.
3) Incorrect Caster could cause premature tire wear and a shaking at higher speed. It would also make the car want to go straight and not go easily into corners.
4) incorrect camber will cause your car to pull to one side more than the other.
5) Toe values that are too high on one side verses the other will cause a car's steering wheel to be off center when driving in a straight line.
There are other factors as well but if it were me, I would see if someone had the following specifications: Front and Rear Toe (left and right), Total Toe, Toe Difference, Front and Rear Camber (left and right) Cross Camber, Caster (left and right), and Thrust angle (how well the rear axle is alligned to the front axle). I would then ask the dealer to align the car with the following tolerances: Toe should be +/-.06 degrees, Camber and Caster should be +/-.5 degrees, Cross Camber should be +/-.33 degrees, and Total Toe should be +/-.12 degrees.
Once a car is properly aligned, it should feel solid in a straight line as well as corners and from low speeds to high speeds.
Hope this helps and wasn't too ling winded.
boyoboy78...stay firm...and refuse to accept the car until it is perfect. I have also experienced this same issue previously, not with my G, and I told the dealer if you want your loaner back make my car right...took them a week, several sets of tires and some BS story, but they got the problem corrected.
how much weight is too much when balancing a new tire? my new sedan had some shimmie so i had the tires rebalanced. now one of them has 8 little square weights that i think are 5 mg each. here is the breakdown:
left fornt - 5 x 5 grams
left rear - 5 x 5 grams
right front 8 x 5 grams
right rear 2 x 5 grams
left fornt - 5 x 5 grams
left rear - 5 x 5 grams
right front 8 x 5 grams
right rear 2 x 5 grams
Adding extra weight is a cowards way out. Some operators that do not know how to accurately ballance a tire will add extra weight to a rim when they do their confirmation spin. Ideally there should be only one weight in the exact position where the tire to wheel is the lightest. It is OK though to have up to two per wheel if the weights are on the inside because its harder to ballance. If the shop knew what they were doing, they would have broken the bead on the tire and moved it to a different spot on the rim and THEN reballanced it instead of adding extra weight.
I had this problem with an 03 sedan. They tried every thing they could, I even had an Infiniti rep look at the car. The thing that helped most was an adjusmet of the steering rack. They never completly fixed it so I sold it and got a coupe, that one was smooth as glass then it got wrecked, so now I'm on my 3rd G. Am I the leader with 3 g's so far?
Good luck with your car dont give up make them fix it or go lemon law.
I got so fed up with it I just traded it in, now in retrospect I wish I would have hounded them more to fix it.
Good luck with your car dont give up make them fix it or go lemon law.
I got so fed up with it I just traded it in, now in retrospect I wish I would have hounded them more to fix it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joel extreme
SOCAL Meetings & Events
0
Sep 29, 2015 04:44 AM
Hogbone
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
2
Sep 28, 2015 06:44 PM




