Caution!!!! 3 wheel studs snapped today!!
#16
#17
This is why you want to always use a torque wrench and cross torque the lug nuts by hand. Any shop that uses any kind of impact wrench on your lug nuts should not be working on cars.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107
#18
Otherwise, I try to avoid having anybody touch my wheels but me... So if you go to a tire shop, and you see some fool rolling 4 wheels by hand to have the tires replaced, that fool would be me.... But you'd be surprised at how suuuuuper careful they are with your wheels, when you roll them in by hand
#19
Agree. 15+ years and i've never broken a stud either. Sounds like a combination of improper torquing and cheap grade (I.E autoparts store) replacement studs.
#20
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
#21
but what if they overtightened it? wouldn't your torque wrench click if they tightened it to 100lb/ft
#22
While damage from over torquing lug nuts doesn't happen often, it is a safety concern that IMO too many people here take too lightly. But hey, it's your car...
If it's set to 85 lbs, it'll click at 85 lbs... I think TexasScout meant for them to use your own torque wrench on your car.
If it's set to 85 lbs, it'll click at 85 lbs... I think TexasScout meant for them to use your own torque wrench on your car.
Last edited by dofu; 04-28-2010 at 03:23 AM.
#23
This is why I always put my car on jackstands at home, and I"ll bring the wheels in by hand. That way they install the tires, and I install the wheel back on my car... 0% chance the lugs will be overtightened or cross threaded.
#24
If it gets overtightened, the stud has been overstressed.
Loosening & re-torquing does not correct that.
Also, the correct procedure is to torque a few pounds under spec,
then re-torque to spec after 50miles (aprox)
When torqued, the alloy wheels flow & seat themselves in the first few miles.
Last edited by InTgr8r; 04-28-2010 at 02:00 PM.
#25
Not true!
If it gets overtightened, the stud has been overstressed.
Loosening & re-torquing does not correct that.
Also, the correct procedure is to torque a few pounds under spec,
then re-torque to spec after 50miles (aprox)
When torqued, the alloy wheels flow & seat themselves in the first few miles.
If it gets overtightened, the stud has been overstressed.
Loosening & re-torquing does not correct that.
Also, the correct procedure is to torque a few pounds under spec,
then re-torque to spec after 50miles (aprox)
When torqued, the alloy wheels flow & seat themselves in the first few miles.
Cross-threading on the other hand.... Like I said, I've never seen a shop over-tighten the lugs too often. However, I've seen them cross thread the lugs EXTREMELY often.
But like I said, that's why I always bring the wheels in by hand... That solves BOTH cases
#26
and you bust out your torque wrench and set it to 85lbs.. it'll click.. the nut is still at 100lbs..
so in this case.. your nuts/bolts are overstressed.. happened to me once.. discount tire/america's tire messed it up.. cost me $120 at infiniti to replace the bolts/nuts..
the manager at discount tire said they set the impact wrench to 70lb and tightened with torque wrench.. i watched them do it.. they don't.. the wrench clicked right away..
i hate to be **** about my "old" car.. but i cant trust anyone these days.
#27
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
200-300 ft/lbs will not stress a stud. If it does, they are crap. What messes them up is driving on them and the heat generated by braking that increases that stress to well over the breaking point. if you reset them in the parking lot by loosening and then torquing them in the proper order, you will have no problems.
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