G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #3391  
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I was quouted by scheib paint and body to repaint my whole car ivory pearl and paint my roof jet black and some body work for $2000

Yey or nay?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 04:37 AM
  #3392  
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i been looking for this answer for like 3 months can someone please help?
i have a AT for starters and it has the shift **** with the button on the side (03-04)
and i wanna replace it with an OEM **** that has the button facing forward the **** fits and the clip lines up but how can i make the button function?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #3393  
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^ just get a momo shift **** (button on top) great shift ****
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 07:42 AM
  #3394  
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I have an 07 **** I wanna use
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #3395  
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I don't think you can make the 07 **** fit the 1st gen, at least not that I've heard of.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #3396  
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I am getting the front left wheel bearing and hub for my 2006 g35 sedan RWD from infinitipartsonline, but it has 2 options. one for 03-06 and the other for 03-07. is there a difference?
https://www.infinitipartsonline.com/...dan-parts.html
its under Front suspension - suspension components - front hub
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #3397  
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also is there a way for me to create an account on infinitipartsonline.com from canada? when i am creating the account i only get the United States option
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 02:05 PM
  #3398  
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Question: I had spacers installed last week and they torqued the wheels on way too tight, we re-torqued the rears at 90 ft/lbs last night after a fender roll and now I need to do the fronts. Is there any reason for me to jack the front end up? I should just be able to break them loose and re-tighten with the car on the ground right?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 02:31 PM
  #3399  
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I say it's best to have the tires barely touching the ground so it doesn't move when you try to loosen/tighten. Loosen to take off, raise car, take off as needed and put back on the same way and double check with the car completely on the ground.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 03:14 PM
  #3400  
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Originally Posted by Abax84
Question: I had spacers installed last week and they torqued the wheels on way too tight, we re-torqued the rears at 90 ft/lbs last night after a fender roll and now I need to do the fronts. Is there any reason for me to jack the front end up? I should just be able to break them loose and re-tighten with the car on the ground right?
I do it all the time - just break loose and tighten to spec with trq wrench. Technically it's best no to loosen with load on the wheels - but I've never had an issue (you are only breaking them loose, not completely loosening or removing so you should be fine)
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 03:38 PM
  #3401  
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^Thanks, yeah I don't need to remove anything just tighten to spec. Ill do it with the car on the ground and just check in a few days to make sure they're still good.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:34 PM
  #3402  
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If I install these lights (Luminics JDM Yellow) in my fogs, I will still have high beams, correct?

It'd be a simple bulb swap?

I just want to make sure, heh. Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #3403  
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If its an H4 bubl then I think so, not sure though.

A clubmate installed some yellow bulbs and his Highs are weak now.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:47 PM
  #3404  
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Originally Posted by thescreensavers
If its an H4 bubl then I think so, not sure though.

A clubmate installed some yellow bulbs and his Highs are weak now.
Hm, highs aren't THAT important, but it's something I'd like to have, for those random nights I feel like going on some back country road, heh, not that there are any near me.

If I road-trip the car, I'll need them.

I heard about the wattage and it creating a ton of heat in the headlight area. Is that true? I mean, I only turn on my fogs when I need them, so that shouldn't pose too much of a problem, I guess.
When I'm in the "check-out" phase of the website, they offer me the chance to buy this supposedly extra durable harness that connects between the bulb and the stock harness. It costs 18 bucks. Is that worth it?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 12:02 AM
  #3405  
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Originally Posted by Siaon

I heard about the wattage and it creating a ton of heat in the headlight area. Is that true? I mean, I only turn on my fogs when I need them, so that shouldn't pose too much of a problem, I guess.
When I'm in the "check-out" phase of the website, they offer me the chance to buy this supposedly extra durable harness that connects between the bulb and the stock harness. It costs 18 bucks. Is that worth it?
Well even with stock bulbs the headlights get hot. Higher the wattage the hotter they will be.

I use my 35watt fogs almost every time the headlights are on. And its been almost a year no problem.


Nah if its an H4 bulb then it should just be plug and play, Take out the old bulb and put the new one in. Basically there is an adapter that has 3 slots you just slide it over the bulb just like OEM and then close the cap. Your done.
 
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