Random Little Question Thread
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 35
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From: mn
Has anyone been in traffic riding slow and had there car kinda rock as it rolls. It looks like my driver side tire moves like it is out of balance or the rim is bent. Stock wheels lowered sedan, any ideas
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
^ thanks for that confirmation Chris. I had I feeling about that. Thank god I didn't try to install it and find out on the spot.
I suppose I'll call Z1Motorsports to see if I can buy the banjo bolts from them.
Also, since these calipers have two bleeders, which one do I bleed first upon install? Inner or outer first?
I suppose I'll call Z1Motorsports to see if I can buy the banjo bolts from them.
Also, since these calipers have two bleeders, which one do I bleed first upon install? Inner or outer first?
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 276
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From: Toronto
Once in a blue moon my car has a very light jerk/vibration as I'm rolling in slow traffic, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the engine. Is that what you're refering to?
^ thanks for that confirmation Chris. I had I feeling about that. Thank god I didn't try to install it and find out on the spot.
I suppose I'll call Z1Motorsports to see if I can buy the banjo bolts from them.
Also, since these calipers have two bleeders, which one do I bleed first upon install? Inner or outer first?
I suppose I'll call Z1Motorsports to see if I can buy the banjo bolts from them.
Also, since these calipers have two bleeders, which one do I bleed first upon install? Inner or outer first?
I'm not sure if you know the sequence but start with the farthest caliper and work your way towards the master cylinder.
In this order (looking at the back of the car)
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front
Pump pump hold
PM me if you have more questions. I don't check Driver that often but I still get emails about PMs
I'd get them as a precaution, but a heads up, I didn't, and I have no issues at all. Use a copper washer on either side of the banjo fitting and shake and bake.
I will be upgrading to SS lines at some juncture, just keep forgetting about it.
I will be upgrading to SS lines at some juncture, just keep forgetting about it.
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
I hear even with copper washers it still didn't seal. Some people had to double up washers on both sides of the bolt. So i'd rather get the shorter ones. I may get SS lines eventually, but sticking with the OEM lines for now.
@Chris - I've changed pads and rotors, but never swapped calipers, but thanks to the power of youtube it doesn't look that bad. I just have to be careful to not run the master dry I guess.
@Chris - I've changed pads and rotors, but never swapped calipers, but thanks to the power of youtube it doesn't look that bad. I just have to be careful to not run the master dry I guess.
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Well. For anyone looking, Z1 Motorsports has the shorter banjo bolts for $2 each, you need four. So if my elementary math is correct, that's $8. Total shipped for me was $17+change, and you have to call in and order through card over the phone. There's no other option besides that. I feel like I got jipped on the shipping but whatever.
Does anyone think its a bad idea to paint the AC lines? I was wanting to experiment painting the lines with rattle can but not sure how it would hold up with the condensation.
I'd say go for it. Worst that can happen is it peels and you just use a solvent to remove the paint.
It might be different from coupes to sedans, I don't know. When I went to install an AKE kit before on a coupe I ran into the same issue but luckily, he had bought the SS lines and it came with the new bolts.
It's not hard Chris. Breaking loose the rear caliper bolts is the hardest. The fronts are easy.
I hear even with copper washers it still didn't seal. Some people had to double up washers on both sides of the bolt. So i'd rather get the shorter ones. I may get SS lines eventually, but sticking with the OEM lines for now.
@Chris - I've changed pads and rotors, but never swapped calipers, but thanks to the power of youtube it doesn't look that bad. I just have to be careful to not run the master dry I guess.
@Chris - I've changed pads and rotors, but never swapped calipers, but thanks to the power of youtube it doesn't look that bad. I just have to be careful to not run the master dry I guess.
It's not hard Chris. Breaking loose the rear caliper bolts is the hardest. The fronts are easy.
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From: San Francisco
2006 Vortech supercharged Sedan
Where can I find black mesh to put behind a bumper opening I can't find anything big enough at home depot to cover the kurookie opening, well except the metal chicken wire
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
It might be different from coupes to sedans, I don't know. When I went to install an AKE kit before on a coupe I ran into the same issue but luckily, he had bought the SS lines and it came with the new bolts.
It's not hard Chris. Breaking loose the rear caliper bolts is the hardest. The fronts are easy.
It's not hard Chris. Breaking loose the rear caliper bolts is the hardest. The fronts are easy.
Trying to bump this post once to see if I can get a response, otherwise I'll just ask the dealer when i get my next service done.
2006 G35X with about 86,000 miles.
I dont use my manu-matic mode too crazy often, but every now and then I have an issue when trying to downshift and Im not sure what would cause it since it isnt consistant. I will try and continue to test it further and pay more attention to when it happens, but for now maybe I can get some help with the information I have currently.
As far as I know, only when I try and downshift I will sometimes have the transmission do nothing. I recall it almost always happening when trying to go from 4th to 3rd and no matter how i move the shifter it just acts like I didnt touch a thing. Going back up shifting and I think it works perfectly, but during the times it wont downshift the only way it does drop gears is when i slow down enough for the RPMs to drop way low and it forces itself to auto downshift. I think after it does downshift I might again have the problem going down to 2nd. Then it usually works fine again after going back up.
This may only happen once during a full driving session and doesnt always happen. It only has happened in the middle of a driving session, never been the very first time I try and downshift when in manu-matic mode.
Im not sure how the whole system works, but could there be some sensor or something in the stick that is dirty or has bad contacts to not register my downshift? I initially considered it to be a wiring or grounding problem, but with it so inconsistant and rarely happening I wouldnt think thats the issue.
Is this something thats best to explain to the dealer so they can look into certain components for possibly a quick fix?
Its not like its an immediate need to get fixed since everything works fine when in drive, but this would be nice to have working correctly so I can drive in manu-matic whenever I want and not be annoyed by it.
I dont use my manu-matic mode too crazy often, but every now and then I have an issue when trying to downshift and Im not sure what would cause it since it isnt consistant. I will try and continue to test it further and pay more attention to when it happens, but for now maybe I can get some help with the information I have currently.
As far as I know, only when I try and downshift I will sometimes have the transmission do nothing. I recall it almost always happening when trying to go from 4th to 3rd and no matter how i move the shifter it just acts like I didnt touch a thing. Going back up shifting and I think it works perfectly, but during the times it wont downshift the only way it does drop gears is when i slow down enough for the RPMs to drop way low and it forces itself to auto downshift. I think after it does downshift I might again have the problem going down to 2nd. Then it usually works fine again after going back up.
This may only happen once during a full driving session and doesnt always happen. It only has happened in the middle of a driving session, never been the very first time I try and downshift when in manu-matic mode.
Im not sure how the whole system works, but could there be some sensor or something in the stick that is dirty or has bad contacts to not register my downshift? I initially considered it to be a wiring or grounding problem, but with it so inconsistant and rarely happening I wouldnt think thats the issue.
Is this something thats best to explain to the dealer so they can look into certain components for possibly a quick fix?
Its not like its an immediate need to get fixed since everything works fine when in drive, but this would be nice to have working correctly so I can drive in manu-matic whenever I want and not be annoyed by it.