That engine overhaul sounds a bit dramatic. I'm no exactly experiencing those exact symptoms. The dealeriship says they are going to change this sensor "sending?" Unit ... I can't remember what he said it was called but he thinks that might be causing the car to overheat and cool. When I drove it to the dealership it didn't heat up at all it stayed below the half point the whole time and I made a few stops which the cars had to sit for about 30mins and it didn't over heat.... I'm sooo confused

 

I'm trying to burp the system so I opened the bleeder valve and nothing comes out I have the heater on but it's ice cold and my temp gauge is just under the half mark. I was having the same overheating issues so replaced radiator, thermostat, and fan clutch. Help anybody

 

1. your coolant might not be flowing fast enough to take the heat out of the engine
have someone check the pressure on your pipes, if its clog then thats the problem.
at normal temperature your low coollant flow is able to take out the heat in your engine but at high temperature your low coolant flow isnt enough, could be restriction problems.

2. your water pump, have a tech check your water pump if its fine have them check the belts, at higher RPMs it may be slipping.

3. wild guess, could be ambient air flow through your radiator, that plastic cover under the engine close to the front bumper has a purpose (air flow). or could be that your condenser is blocking air flow through your radiator since it sits in front of it, unable to cool of the the coolant in the radiator.

theres a lot of things that can over heat your car, unless we, or a tech can find the source all we can do is guess

 

trodo

are you having problem with your heater or is it overheating?

 

It overheated because the radiator had a small leak and I was being lazy and didn't fix so it got low and radiator busted so replaced radiator and thermostat flushed the system and everything seemed fine but then the temp gauge started climbing up so thought my fan clutch was bad because i didnt hear it engage anymore so replaced it and drove the car and started climbing up after a while then i remembered to bleed the system but nothing was coming out but got it to come out after reving with heater on full blast and hot air came out finally but I go to bleed one more time an snap it broke so now I have replace the bleeder valve

 

My car is also overheating and is definitely not an indication problem, when I opened my hood steam was coming out the reservour tank and radiator fluid was boiling all the way to the top of the tank, spraying all over the engine bay. This started to occur after I got it back from the dealership for the Valve body replacement. I don't know how is related, but maybe they did something that is causing the engine to overheat or maybe not.

 

the water pump would NEVER slip. Its chain driven and works on a 1 to 1 rotation. Its either pumping or not pumping.

If the pump is leaking water it would leak right into the crankcase.

Take the car back before you make permenant damage.

 

belt is sliping not the pump

 

Lol

What belt?

VQ35 is internal chain driven

 

isnt it driven by a belt from a Pulley on the front end of the Crankshaft?
or am I looking at the wrong engine here.....

 

VQ35DE is internal chain driven. Has two O-rings and a oil passage for the bearings.

You can access it through the right plastic black cover but you have to remove the fan clutch if you have one.

Also you have to pry the chain off and has some screws iirc 10mm's ... not an easy cookie.

 

belts are only for ac, and alternator, and maybe fan if u have a 03-04

 

If you check the oil do you observe small traces of coolant in the oil? Does the oil smell different? Can you see an oily slick floating on top of the coolant in the radiator or overflow tank? Does the coolant level drop at all....do you have to always add coolant to the car? Does the exhaust smell like coolant?