Feedback welcomed. Update on possible tradedown from 07 to 06
Feedback welcomed. Update on possible tradedown from 07 to 06
So to trade down from my 2007 G35X to a 2006 here are the results of today's findings. Here are the things the $190 Infiniti inspection revealed today (I paid for this inspection) with their price quotes in parenthesis following each repair to show what Infiniti charges to fix each item:
Front and rear brake pads and rotors will need replacing at some point in near future. Front ($590) Rear ($590). Front pads are 6mm and rear are 3-4mm. Rotors too rusty to be resurfaced. Compression rods bushings have large cracks ($790), rear swaybar links are worn ($368), PCV vale sticky ($90), front and rear differential & transfer case fluids are dark/discolored ($330). Recommend fluid flush. Also the driver door may need regulator bolts tightened due to rattle when door shuts (Subaru trying to fix). So I'm trying to decide if I still wanna do this deal. They are giving me $3300 refund on my 2007 to do the swap (no sales tax, no registration or doc fees, no title fee) so I am not sure if this means I'm breaking even after the repairs or not. Based on Infiniti's price quotes for all these fixes I'd be breaking even unless I have a regular place I go to do the work. But I have to decide because Sunday they're expecting me to do one last inspection of the door rattle which they're trying to address at the Subaru dealership where the car is for sale. If I see they fixed the rattle I was gonna do the deal Sunday. The car has bluetooth, auto dim mirror, memory seats. Don't everyone attack me here saying it's a crazy deal but please do be gently honest, am I in for a money pit if I buy this? Infiniti's labor and parts quotes are really high to fix all these. I probably wouldn't have dealer do these.
Front and rear brake pads and rotors will need replacing at some point in near future. Front ($590) Rear ($590). Front pads are 6mm and rear are 3-4mm. Rotors too rusty to be resurfaced. Compression rods bushings have large cracks ($790), rear swaybar links are worn ($368), PCV vale sticky ($90), front and rear differential & transfer case fluids are dark/discolored ($330). Recommend fluid flush. Also the driver door may need regulator bolts tightened due to rattle when door shuts (Subaru trying to fix). So I'm trying to decide if I still wanna do this deal. They are giving me $3300 refund on my 2007 to do the swap (no sales tax, no registration or doc fees, no title fee) so I am not sure if this means I'm breaking even after the repairs or not. Based on Infiniti's price quotes for all these fixes I'd be breaking even unless I have a regular place I go to do the work. But I have to decide because Sunday they're expecting me to do one last inspection of the door rattle which they're trying to address at the Subaru dealership where the car is for sale. If I see they fixed the rattle I was gonna do the deal Sunday. The car has bluetooth, auto dim mirror, memory seats. Don't everyone attack me here saying it's a crazy deal but please do be gently honest, am I in for a money pit if I buy this? Infiniti's labor and parts quotes are really high to fix all these. I probably wouldn't have dealer do these.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

They are taking you for a ride on labor with the quotes they gave you. I understand you might not be able to DIY a lot (if any) of the repairs listed but they are all pretty much standard G issues. The compression rods, PCV valve, and swaybar links usually don't have issues until you get over 60K miles but would have needed to be replaced down the road at some point. Here's what you would pay for parts alone with some careful shopping:
1. Brakes. New rotors F&R from r1concepts $260
New stock pads F&R from Grubbs Infiniti $120
2. Compression rods R&L-OEM $395 from eBay
3. Rear Swaybar endlinks-OEM $45 from eBay
4. PCV valve-OEM Don't know but think it's around $40
5. F&R diff fluids-Amsoil severe gear 75-90 $40 from Swivel Hips or the Amsoil website
So you're looking at a total of $900 for parts and whatever a competent, honest mechanic would charge you for labor. With over 50K miles on the car you are looking at pretty normal things going out. The only other things I would look for in the immediate future would be the bushings on your front lower control arms, they usually go out around the same time the compression rods do. So is this a money pit, NO!!!!! You are just in an awkward position that it needs all of those things at the same time. Once you get those issues fixed I would suspect you will have a long and relatively trouble-free run with the car as long as it was maintained properly and you continue to do the same. If you have any other questions or want more advice feel free to PM me.
1. Brakes. New rotors F&R from r1concepts $260
New stock pads F&R from Grubbs Infiniti $120
2. Compression rods R&L-OEM $395 from eBay
3. Rear Swaybar endlinks-OEM $45 from eBay
4. PCV valve-OEM Don't know but think it's around $40
5. F&R diff fluids-Amsoil severe gear 75-90 $40 from Swivel Hips or the Amsoil website
So you're looking at a total of $900 for parts and whatever a competent, honest mechanic would charge you for labor. With over 50K miles on the car you are looking at pretty normal things going out. The only other things I would look for in the immediate future would be the bushings on your front lower control arms, they usually go out around the same time the compression rods do. So is this a money pit, NO!!!!! You are just in an awkward position that it needs all of those things at the same time. Once you get those issues fixed I would suspect you will have a long and relatively trouble-free run with the car as long as it was maintained properly and you continue to do the same. If you have any other questions or want more advice feel free to PM me.
Last edited by Blue Dream; May 5, 2011 at 08:02 PM.
Funny even my realtor today saw the 2007 G35X today that I got in February and without knowing I was looking to get another 2006 she said: "it's not you, it's not your personality, it reminds me of something an older person would drive, it's not as slick looking as the 2006 in my opinion."
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

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I'm with Blue Dream, some of the parts/labor prices quoted from the dealership are very high, considering what you can buy the OEM parts for online from another dealership.
Here's what I'd do if I was in your shoes - look at what you bought the '07 for a few months ago, subtract the $3300 the Subie dealer will give you for the car, and see what that total comes out to. If it's $16K or a lot higher, then IMO you'll be overpaying for the '06. I'm just outside of New York City in NJ, so it's just about as expensive here as it is up by you. The dealerships that sell cars price them right - the ones that are pricey will have cars sit on their lots for months before giving up and selling them at auction. Before I bought my '06, my wife and I looked at an '04 G35x at a local Infiniti dealer. The car had been sitting on their lots for 8 MONTHS, and they were finally down to $14,995 (a reasonable price). We offered $14K and they wouldn't sell it to us. It eventually went to auction where I'm sure they got less than that. Ah well, I like my '06 much better!
Here's what I'd do if I was in your shoes - look at what you bought the '07 for a few months ago, subtract the $3300 the Subie dealer will give you for the car, and see what that total comes out to. If it's $16K or a lot higher, then IMO you'll be overpaying for the '06. I'm just outside of New York City in NJ, so it's just about as expensive here as it is up by you. The dealerships that sell cars price them right - the ones that are pricey will have cars sit on their lots for months before giving up and selling them at auction. Before I bought my '06, my wife and I looked at an '04 G35x at a local Infiniti dealer. The car had been sitting on their lots for 8 MONTHS, and they were finally down to $14,995 (a reasonable price). We offered $14K and they wouldn't sell it to us. It eventually went to auction where I'm sure they got less than that. Ah well, I like my '06 much better!
IMO among those issues I'd only fix the PCV valve and change/flush all fluids, including coolant, power steering, transfer case, differential, auto transmission, engine oil maybe brake fluid, or you can flush the brake fluid when you do the brakes. If the brake wears similarly to RWDs, 6mm front brake pads will probably last for another 10k miles, more if you brake gently, and 3-4mm rears will outlast the fronts by at least 7k miles. The compression rods and end links to me are more of a comfort issue, as to safety issue, if you don't drive aggressively.
The way I see it, you'd have to pay for regular maintenance and out-of-warranty repairs anyway if you keep an old car, so the $3,300 to me is not for breaking even on the swap, but the difference between trade-in and retail values of these two cars. If you can tolerate the compression rods and end link as they are now, you might want to save the money for some other issues down the road, while looking for a good mechanics with reasonable repair costs for all the work needs to be done on the 06. Also you can try to use the inspection result to ask for more on your swap. Just my .02.
The way I see it, you'd have to pay for regular maintenance and out-of-warranty repairs anyway if you keep an old car, so the $3,300 to me is not for breaking even on the swap, but the difference between trade-in and retail values of these two cars. If you can tolerate the compression rods and end link as they are now, you might want to save the money for some other issues down the road, while looking for a good mechanics with reasonable repair costs for all the work needs to be done on the 06. Also you can try to use the inspection result to ask for more on your swap. Just my .02.
Given all the prices on parts @ $900 I would say your total would come out to $1500-$1800 with labor and anything else that pops up. I am guestimating the labor depending on who you find and what they charge per hour. The money that you are putting into the vehicle is for the good of the vehicle in the long term and for you as well. The bushings are a known wear items and stock bushings are junk. Now you will be able to upgrade to Metal or Poly bushings and those will not crap out on you. The fluids is an expected item and you can change over some of the fluids to quality aftermarket fluids and get good long term results.
Brakes can become really pricey if you get the parts at the wrong place. Obviously you found this forum so you can find good advice on getting parts at a fair price. Couple that with an honest mechanic or a seasoned board member and you can actually get some really fair prices.
I am in the same situation and currently what I am facing on my vehicle for long term reliablity to hit 200k miles. Spark plugs, Belts, LCA bushing, CR bushing, Coolant, Transmission fluid, Clutch fluid, Clutch, tires. The car has a recent brake job on all four corners so i would not have to worry about that. All the maintenance can add up really quick but nothing needs to be done RIGHT AWAY. I would take it step at a time and knock out what is in worst condition. If fluids are murky and dirty then swap them out, Brakes if you are warped or low on pads, Bushings if they are torn and you can't stand the clunk. So just go with what you think needs immediate attention and shop around in labor rates and always order parts online for $$$ savings.
EDIT: Use all this to your advantage and have the dealership atleast cover the inspection and knock some more off the price. If they are not budging then you need to realize the $3300 becomes $2k once you add the expense to get the car to the same level if not better than the 07.
EDIT EDIT: In my honest opinion...CASH IS KING. Go to Carmax and see what they offer you for your car CASH. Then shop around for an 06 and I think you will come out ahead especially if you find one that has been maintained well. It is a buyers market and you can have them come down a lot in price when you have cash on the table to offer. I feel the dealer ship is not giving you enough and you need at least 4k if not 4.5k back
Brakes can become really pricey if you get the parts at the wrong place. Obviously you found this forum so you can find good advice on getting parts at a fair price. Couple that with an honest mechanic or a seasoned board member and you can actually get some really fair prices.
I am in the same situation and currently what I am facing on my vehicle for long term reliablity to hit 200k miles. Spark plugs, Belts, LCA bushing, CR bushing, Coolant, Transmission fluid, Clutch fluid, Clutch, tires. The car has a recent brake job on all four corners so i would not have to worry about that. All the maintenance can add up really quick but nothing needs to be done RIGHT AWAY. I would take it step at a time and knock out what is in worst condition. If fluids are murky and dirty then swap them out, Brakes if you are warped or low on pads, Bushings if they are torn and you can't stand the clunk. So just go with what you think needs immediate attention and shop around in labor rates and always order parts online for $$$ savings.
EDIT: Use all this to your advantage and have the dealership atleast cover the inspection and knock some more off the price. If they are not budging then you need to realize the $3300 becomes $2k once you add the expense to get the car to the same level if not better than the 07.
EDIT EDIT: In my honest opinion...CASH IS KING. Go to Carmax and see what they offer you for your car CASH. Then shop around for an 06 and I think you will come out ahead especially if you find one that has been maintained well. It is a buyers market and you can have them come down a lot in price when you have cash on the table to offer. I feel the dealer ship is not giving you enough and you need at least 4k if not 4.5k back
Last edited by faiz23; May 5, 2011 at 11:00 PM.
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