Jdm power folding mirror question
#18
The relays that JDM_cain has are OEM ones as I recall.
In actuality, relays are not needed to run these. The relays as far as I can figure are strictly for the OEM 'auto fold' feature. This feature operates as follows:
KEY FAB ~ LOCK ~ : Mirrors fold in
KEY IN IGNITION, KEY TURNED TO "ON" POSITION: Mirrors fold out
The switch is a separate deal. The relays are there to ensure that when the auto feature is being used, the switch won't work. And vise-versa. Obviously if you had these crossed you can create a short (opposing polarities)
In actuality, relays are not needed to run these. The relays as far as I can figure are strictly for the OEM 'auto fold' feature. This feature operates as follows:
KEY FAB ~ LOCK ~ : Mirrors fold in
KEY IN IGNITION, KEY TURNED TO "ON" POSITION: Mirrors fold out
The switch is a separate deal. The relays are there to ensure that when the auto feature is being used, the switch won't work. And vise-versa. Obviously if you had these crossed you can create a short (opposing polarities)
#19
#20
Once again, a relay is NOT NEEDED unless you want to wire in the auto-fold function.
I'll warn you, that's no easy task. I had to figure all the wiring out myself it was pretty complicated, had to order some special relays to get it to work also. I will be doing a write up on it whenever I get time to put it all together. Either way, you do NOT need the relays to use these, you jsut need the switch.
I'll warn you, that's no easy task. I had to figure all the wiring out myself it was pretty complicated, had to order some special relays to get it to work also. I will be doing a write up on it whenever I get time to put it all together. Either way, you do NOT need the relays to use these, you jsut need the switch.
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CandlestickPark (05-02-2012)
#22
ill Sedan
iTrader: (87)
#23
Some of my pre-lim pics and info for my DIY are in there. I also explained the Defrost element hook up in minor detail, as I wanted to hook mine up also, and did.
All of the wires are the same colour. You'll have a total of 3 extra wires on the JDM switch.
1 is black, it's for your Illumination Ground, because the JDM switch has a light and the USDM one doesn't. This can either be left disconnected, or if you want the light, you'll need to tap into any one of your illumination circuits on the Ground side. The dimmer is closest but hardest to hook up, I recommend the Cig lighter illumination, it's closer and easier to figure out.
The other 2 wires are the outputs to the Mirrors for folding. These are Neutral wires, they work just like your power window motor.
When you want to fold in, one is + the other is -
When you want to fold out, they reverse.
So all you need to do, to have this work in it's most basic form:
Splice the new JDM window switch harness into the USDM harness, use all the same wires and terminals, do not cross any wires.
Now you have 3 left over wires on the JDM harness.
disregard the black one, and hook the other two up to your window motors. You'll need to test which is fold in and which is fold out. this is simple enough to do once you run your wires.
I'll be hooking mine up just a bit different though, I'm going to have my mirrors:
Lock = Fold in
Unlock = Fold out
The key in ignition "on" makes sense (how they did it OEM), but I want it fully controlled via remote. And parking isn't that tight that I'll need them folded in while entering/exiting the car.
All this talk about it is making me want to go wire those relays in and get the auto feature working
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Blue Dream (05-03-2012)
#27
#28
You'll want to read through this thread https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...e-mirrors.html
Some of my pre-lim pics and info for my DIY are in there. I also explained the Defrost element hook up in minor detail, as I wanted to hook mine up also, and did.
All of the wires are the same colour. You'll have a total of 3 extra wires on the JDM switch.
1 is black, it's for your Illumination Ground, because the JDM switch has a light and the USDM one doesn't. This can either be left disconnected, or if you want the light, you'll need to tap into any one of your illumination circuits on the Ground side. The dimmer is closest but hardest to hook up, I recommend the Cig lighter illumination, it's closer and easier to figure out.
The other 2 wires are the outputs to the Mirrors for folding. These are Neutral wires, they work just like your power window motor.
When you want to fold in, one is + the other is -
When you want to fold out, they reverse.
So all you need to do, to have this work in it's most basic form:
Splice the new JDM window switch harness into the USDM harness, use all the same wires and terminals, do not cross any wires.
Now you have 3 left over wires on the JDM harness.
disregard the black one, and hook the other two up to your window motors. You'll need to test which is fold in and which is fold out. this is simple enough to do once you run your wires.
I didn't know about it either. All I knew was I wanted them to function automatically. After doing some digging I found out that that's an option for the JDM V35's, this auto feature, and that's where the relays come in with this whole thing.
I'll be hooking mine up just a bit different though, I'm going to have my mirrors:
Lock = Fold in
Unlock = Fold out
The key in ignition "on" makes sense (how they did it OEM), but I want it fully controlled via remote. And parking isn't that tight that I'll need them folded in while entering/exiting the car.
All this talk about it is making me want to go wire those relays in and get the auto feature working
Some of my pre-lim pics and info for my DIY are in there. I also explained the Defrost element hook up in minor detail, as I wanted to hook mine up also, and did.
All of the wires are the same colour. You'll have a total of 3 extra wires on the JDM switch.
1 is black, it's for your Illumination Ground, because the JDM switch has a light and the USDM one doesn't. This can either be left disconnected, or if you want the light, you'll need to tap into any one of your illumination circuits on the Ground side. The dimmer is closest but hardest to hook up, I recommend the Cig lighter illumination, it's closer and easier to figure out.
The other 2 wires are the outputs to the Mirrors for folding. These are Neutral wires, they work just like your power window motor.
When you want to fold in, one is + the other is -
When you want to fold out, they reverse.
So all you need to do, to have this work in it's most basic form:
Splice the new JDM window switch harness into the USDM harness, use all the same wires and terminals, do not cross any wires.
Now you have 3 left over wires on the JDM harness.
disregard the black one, and hook the other two up to your window motors. You'll need to test which is fold in and which is fold out. this is simple enough to do once you run your wires.
I didn't know about it either. All I knew was I wanted them to function automatically. After doing some digging I found out that that's an option for the JDM V35's, this auto feature, and that's where the relays come in with this whole thing.
I'll be hooking mine up just a bit different though, I'm going to have my mirrors:
Lock = Fold in
Unlock = Fold out
The key in ignition "on" makes sense (how they did it OEM), but I want it fully controlled via remote. And parking isn't that tight that I'll need them folded in while entering/exiting the car.
All this talk about it is making me want to go wire those relays in and get the auto feature working
Just to clean this up. The Red and Green/Black are the fold in and fold out wires.
Also there are 2 black wires and you have to figure out which one is the illmination and ground because they both are just black.
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TunerMax (05-29-2012)
#29
I took my **** apart and turned it 180 to acheive the 'backwards' way. I'd assume he did the same.
Actually, if you really really look at the pictures, it makes more sense the way he and I have it, than the way it is stock
Doesn't really look right either way, the indicator pics are weird
Thanks. Yes that's correct about the Black wires. I don't remember about the fold in/out, but it's pretty obvious that they're the extra 2 wires when comparing to the old harness/switch.
#30