05 G35 starting problem
#1
05 G35 problem. help!
Since around 3 days ago the car takes longer than normal to start and has kind of a weak start intermittently. If I shut it of and immediately start it up again it does as it should. If an our goes by or two and I try to start it, it does this. I tried different keys to make sure its not the magnet in the key. I added a fuel stabilizer in case if the fuel was bad but it keeps on doing it. The problem only appears when I started because it seems to run fine and check engine light isn't on or anything. My brother told me it could possibly be a cam sensor but I'm not sure because I had bad crank sensors last year and the car stalled sometimes and wasn't running fine, plus it had VDC, Slip and service engine light on. Here's a vid of what it does.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSa4W...ature=youtu.be
If anyone can help I would appreciate it. It's driving me nuts!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSa4W...ature=youtu.be
If anyone can help I would appreciate it. It's driving me nuts!
Last edited by Dani01c; 09-06-2012 at 11:56 PM.
#3
My car was not starting quickly either. I went to advance and they tested the battery and charging system for me. The battery was crap so I bought a new one. My car is a 2006 and that was the original battery. I just changed it a month or two ago.
I would start with getting it checked, but it sounds like a dying battery to me.
I would start with getting it checked, but it sounds like a dying battery to me.
#4
That sounds like exactly the thing my 04X did before I had to get the throttle body replaced.
A remanufactured throttle body is ~$240 from nissan (with a $40 refund on the core). Do not skimp on this part since when I fixed it on my car the first replacement throttle body was defective and I ended up throwing alot of money at the problem trying to fix other things before the dealership found out it was defective. It turned my ~$350 problem into a $1,300 problem and I had to spend a half hour yelling at the worthless dealership that sold it to me.
A remanufactured throttle body is ~$240 from nissan (with a $40 refund on the core). Do not skimp on this part since when I fixed it on my car the first replacement throttle body was defective and I ended up throwing alot of money at the problem trying to fix other things before the dealership found out it was defective. It turned my ~$350 problem into a $1,300 problem and I had to spend a half hour yelling at the worthless dealership that sold it to me.
#6
My battery was changed about a month ago because it was bad. The car only does this after being an our or two shut off. If I start it the next morning its fine, if I start it immediately after being on it starts fine. I'm so confused. If the TB was bad, doesn't the car rune fine? Because mine runs completely fine, or at least it feels like it. Strange thing is that theres no CEL or any other symptoms at all. Could it be the fuel regulator? Thank you all for the reply!
#7
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#8
Fuel pressure is bleeding off. These cars keep the fuel pressure even when turned off. something is causing your fuel pressure to bleed off and when u turn the key it has to build the pressure back up before the motor will start. Could be pump, leak, pressure regulator, etc...
Go head and clean the maf and see what that does just to make sure it is not maf related.
Go head and clean the maf and see what that does just to make sure it is not maf related.
The following users liked this post:
Dani01c (09-11-2012)
#9
Fuel pressure is bleeding off. These cars keep the fuel pressure even when turned off. something is causing your fuel pressure to bleed off and when u turn the key it has to build the pressure back up before the motor will start. Could be pump, leak, pressure regulator, etc...
Go head and clean the maf and see what that does just to make sure it is not maf related.
Go head and clean the maf and see what that does just to make sure it is not maf related.
#10
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
No it isn't.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/17040-p...-p-187186.html
You can probably find it even cheaper, especially if you go away from OEM.
Or get a In-tank Walbro 255 for $100 that comes with the filter and everything except the oring that seats the assembly.
Hopefully they'll stand behind the diagnosis, because if it's not the fuel pump, who's paying for that labour and part?
http://www.courtesyparts.com/17040-p...-p-187186.html
You can probably find it even cheaper, especially if you go away from OEM.
Or get a In-tank Walbro 255 for $100 that comes with the filter and everything except the oring that seats the assembly.
Hopefully they'll stand behind the diagnosis, because if it's not the fuel pump, who's paying for that labour and part?
#12
#14
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Pumps create flow, that's all they do. so in direct answer to your question- no.
A walbro 255 is the cheapest relaible option, IMO.
OEM for $200 is pretty reasonable,a nd will be the MOST reliable option.
I am not recommending you accuse the Fuel pump for this issue, I dont' knwo what the issue is, but if you're going to buy a fuel pump and just need advice, that's it.
A walbro 255 is the cheapest relaible option, IMO.
OEM for $200 is pretty reasonable,a nd will be the MOST reliable option.
I am not recommending you accuse the Fuel pump for this issue, I dont' knwo what the issue is, but if you're going to buy a fuel pump and just need advice, that's it.