You have an intake right on top of the grille and behind the radiator...your dual intake will not work, just because it seems like you have no engine background and the guys on here have never done it either, there has to be a reason for it.

 

oh. I thought that air duct on top if the grill directed air into the the obvious air intake tube.
guess I haven't payed close attention to it.
and by engine background you mean not enough space behind the engine to to the firewall?

 

Engine background meaning have you worked on engines before?

 

yes.
I swap Honda engines, yea they're easier but I see engines all the same, just every part has a different location. and I graduated auto trade school.
I figured two air intakes, even though each going into the same port, would give the engine more colder air opposed to one intake and would also supply the engine with more air if needed

 

Doesn't quite work that way.

Varying the amount of air and also the lenght of distance from the throttle body to the intake valves can dramatically alter the torque and HP levels of a vehicle. It has to do with manitaining velocity and pressure drop as the incoming air charger passes by an orifice (the throttle body) and slows down inside the plenum as the chamber expands. If you slow down the airflow too much (by having too much ability for air to get into the engine) you can actually decrease torque because the slower moving air may not fill the cylinders all the way during the Intake stroke. Maintaing air intake velocity into the cylinders is a critical part of engine design and perfecting this has huge impact on performance and fuel efficiency.

Without the benefit of dyno tuning, you have no idea what the ramifications of your design will be. If anything, without increasing the displacement, i would wager that you lose torque because you would slow the airflow down by allowing so much to enter the plenum

GM actually marketed this fact in the 80's with their TPI (Tuned Port Injection) Camaros. The Tuned Port was referring to adjusting the intake runner lenght to get the max torque possible out of that hideous 80's V8 engine.

 

yea. a dynometer would show the power gain or Loss.
any how you say the airflow would slow down and not allow the cylinder to fill up during intake stroke.
Wouldn't traveling at a speed higher than 20 mph shoe more than enough air into the intake pipe, giving the cylinder enough air to continuously suck up if the car continuously moving forward at high speeds?

anywho. don't think I will be doing that anymore. or at least not any time soon

 

No. The only way for this to happen is by using a power adder. The forward motion of a car will not compress air and force it into the manifold. You can definitely make it more efficient by means of a good cold air intake setup, but past the throttle body, you will still usually find yourself in a partial vacuum. Adding two throttle bodies is where you have the potential for unintended consequences with the best of intentions.

I'm simplifying it a lot. Theres a bit more to intake design that's hard to type out. To make a long story short, your thinking is sound, but in reality designing a manifold is something that will require dyno testing and trial.

I'm a Mech Engineer by background.

 

ahh I see even with two intakes. the engine still sucks up the same air it would with one intake.
and I thought at high speeds somewhat more air would e shoved into the cylinder. guess not.

You say adding a second throttle body would help. (I'm not gonna do this, but curious)
it would help because it give the engine 2 different sources of air intake?

I'm no master mechanic. I barely started this auto trade. and I'm still learning as I go!
thanks for the info.

 

Also today, I wa able to get some stuff done.
I finally replaced my passenger side seatbelt mechanism.
I put in a mechanical locking one as I don't have the electric one with the electrical connector haha.
the oem electrical one was locked and wouldn't retract or let out and it was unsafe for passengers.

and the passenger seat was too far up and since the switch doesn't work, I had to get a car battery and give it power to move back a little.


I also hooked up my amp and subwoofer.
it didn't work. here's what I have.
I have a remote wire from the stock stereo to the amp and the power and grous cable.
the amp turns on but the sub won't work.
I hooked up a hi/low converter to a rear speaker an I hooked it up to the amp but nothing. a
any ideas?

 

Not exactly. Ignore the intake track before the throttle body. What happens after the throttle body is completely different. When air is sucked past an orifice (the throttle body) into a larger chamber (the intake plenum) it tends to slow down slightly. Depending on the size of the orifice, you can slow or speed up this air inside the plenum. THAT speed plays a role in the filling of each cylinder. Without dyno tuning, you don't really know how your changes affect things. It could go either way.

It's the sam principle behind the intake spacers than guys install.

 

okay it makes sense.

and the spacers you say. some have some use. but I can't think of what system they work on.
where the fuel is interjected into the the intake and not the cylinder. giving the fuel a better chance to mix with the air for better combustion.

 

Did you buy this from a guy in MD? I saw a car identical to this one being sold for $5000. Does this car have minor rear fender damage on right side?

 

You said the car is missing airbags... hence your airbag light is on. The car does have a stock alarm but dont expect it to do much protecting, if you really want security get an after market alarm system. 5k is not a good price for a crashed G35 how many km does it have? You also should have had it inspected before buying it.

 

No @ ninja. I bought it in CA

@asadali91 yea. and it has 120k miles. now. it's had 119k miles when i bought it.
the car isn't crashed now. it's all fixed. I thought 5k was a good price for it.

Lately. when the car sits for a long time, over night or so.
when I turn it on, the Rpm jumps to idle rpm then it falls down to practically nothing and it sounds like the car is off then the rpms jump back up to idle,
when the Rpm rapidly drops, it seriously feels like the car will turn off, the other day it did turn off but now on really cold starts the rpm just drops real quick then goes to normal.

 

Bro your car has so many problems i cant believe you thought 5k was a good price AND it has 120 MILES on it? dude..