Newbee with some questions on my 2004 G35 sedan
You have an intake right on top of the grille and behind the radiator...your dual intake will not work, just because it seems like you have no engine background and the guys on here have never done it either, there has to be a reason for it.
oh. I thought that air duct on top if the grill directed air into the the obvious air intake tube.
guess I haven't payed close attention to it.
and by engine background you mean not enough space behind the engine to to the firewall?
guess I haven't payed close attention to it.
and by engine background you mean not enough space behind the engine to to the firewall?
yes.
I swap Honda engines, yea they're easier but I see engines all the same, just every part has a different location. and I graduated auto trade school.
I figured two air intakes, even though each going into the same port, would give the engine more colder air opposed to one intake and would also supply the engine with more air if needed
I swap Honda engines, yea they're easier but I see engines all the same, just every part has a different location. and I graduated auto trade school.
I figured two air intakes, even though each going into the same port, would give the engine more colder air opposed to one intake and would also supply the engine with more air if needed
Varying the amount of air and also the lenght of distance from the throttle body to the intake valves can dramatically alter the torque and HP levels of a vehicle. It has to do with manitaining velocity and pressure drop as the incoming air charger passes by an orifice (the throttle body) and slows down inside the plenum as the chamber expands. If you slow down the airflow too much (by having too much ability for air to get into the engine) you can actually decrease torque because the slower moving air may not fill the cylinders all the way during the Intake stroke. Maintaing air intake velocity into the cylinders is a critical part of engine design and perfecting this has huge impact on performance and fuel efficiency.
Without the benefit of dyno tuning, you have no idea what the ramifications of your design will be. If anything, without increasing the displacement, i would wager that you lose torque because you would slow the airflow down by allowing so much to enter the plenum
GM actually marketed this fact in the 80's with their TPI (Tuned Port Injection) Camaros. The Tuned Port was referring to adjusting the intake runner lenght to get the max torque possible out of that hideous 80's V8 engine.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; Dec 18, 2012 at 08:09 AM.
Doesn't quite work that way.
Varying the amount of air and also the lenght of distance from the throttle body to the intake valves can dramatically alter the torque and HP levels of a vehicle. It has to do with manitaining velocity and pressure drop as the incoming air charger passes by an orifice (the throttle body) and slows down inside the plenum as the chamber expands. If you slow down the airflow too much (by having too much ability for air to get into the engine) you can actually decrease torque because the slower moving air may not fill the cylinders all the way during the Intake stroke. Maintaing air intake velocity into the cylinders is a critical part of engine design and perfecting this has huge impact on performance and fuel efficiency.
Without the benefit of dyno tuning, you have no idea what the ramifications of your design will be. If anything, without increasing the displacement, i would wager that you lose torque because you would slow the airflow down by allowing so much to enter the plenum
GM actually marketed this fact in the 80's with their TPI (Tuned Port Injection) Camaros. The Tuned Port was referring to adjusting the intake runner lenght to get the max torque possible out of that hideous 80's V8 engine.
Varying the amount of air and also the lenght of distance from the throttle body to the intake valves can dramatically alter the torque and HP levels of a vehicle. It has to do with manitaining velocity and pressure drop as the incoming air charger passes by an orifice (the throttle body) and slows down inside the plenum as the chamber expands. If you slow down the airflow too much (by having too much ability for air to get into the engine) you can actually decrease torque because the slower moving air may not fill the cylinders all the way during the Intake stroke. Maintaing air intake velocity into the cylinders is a critical part of engine design and perfecting this has huge impact on performance and fuel efficiency.
Without the benefit of dyno tuning, you have no idea what the ramifications of your design will be. If anything, without increasing the displacement, i would wager that you lose torque because you would slow the airflow down by allowing so much to enter the plenum
GM actually marketed this fact in the 80's with their TPI (Tuned Port Injection) Camaros. The Tuned Port was referring to adjusting the intake runner lenght to get the max torque possible out of that hideous 80's V8 engine.
any how you say the airflow would slow down and not allow the cylinder to fill up during intake stroke.
Wouldn't traveling at a speed higher than 20 mph shoe more than enough air into the intake pipe, giving the cylinder enough air to continuously suck up if the car continuously moving forward at high speeds?
anywho. don't think I will be doing that anymore. or at least not any time soon
yea. a dynometer would show the power gain or Loss.
any how you say the airflow would slow down and not allow the cylinder to fill up during intake stroke.
Wouldn't traveling at a speed higher than 20 mph shoe more than enough air into the intake pipe, giving the cylinder enough air to continuously suck up if the car continuously moving forward at high speeds?
anywho. don't think I will be doing that anymore. or at least not any time soon
any how you say the airflow would slow down and not allow the cylinder to fill up during intake stroke.
Wouldn't traveling at a speed higher than 20 mph shoe more than enough air into the intake pipe, giving the cylinder enough air to continuously suck up if the car continuously moving forward at high speeds?
anywho. don't think I will be doing that anymore. or at least not any time soon
No. The only way for this to happen is by using a power adder. The forward motion of a car will not compress air and force it into the manifold. You can definitely make it more efficient by means of a good cold air intake setup, but past the throttle body, you will still usually find yourself in a partial vacuum. Adding two throttle bodies is where you have the potential for unintended consequences with the best of intentions.
I'm simplifying it a lot. Theres a bit more to intake design that's hard to type out. To make a long story short, your thinking is sound, but in reality designing a manifold is something that will require dyno testing and trial.
I'm a Mech Engineer by background.
No. The only way for this to happen is by using a power adder. The forward motion of a car will not compress air and force it into the manifold. You can definitely make it more efficient by means of a good cold air intake setup, but past the throttle body, you will still usually find yourself in a partial vacuum. Adding two throttle bodies is where you have the potential for unintended consequences with the best of intentions.
I'm simplifying it a lot. Theres a bit more to intake design that's hard to type out. To make a long story short, your thinking is sound, but in reality designing a manifold is something that will require dyno testing and trial.
I'm a Mech Engineer by background.
I'm simplifying it a lot. Theres a bit more to intake design that's hard to type out. To make a long story short, your thinking is sound, but in reality designing a manifold is something that will require dyno testing and trial.
I'm a Mech Engineer by background.
and I thought at high speeds somewhat more air would e shoved into the cylinder. guess not.
You say adding a second throttle body would help. (I'm not gonna do this, but curious)
it would help because it give the engine 2 different sources of air intake?
I'm no master mechanic. I barely started this auto trade. and I'm still learning as I go!
thanks for the info.
Also today, I wa able to get some stuff done.
I finally replaced my passenger side seatbelt mechanism.
I put in a mechanical locking one as I don't have the electric one with the electrical connector haha.
the oem electrical one was locked and wouldn't retract or let out and it was unsafe for passengers.
and the passenger seat was too far up and since the switch doesn't work, I had to get a car battery and give it power to move back a little.
I also hooked up my amp and subwoofer.
it didn't work. here's what I have.
I have a remote wire from the stock stereo to the amp and the power and grous cable.
the amp turns on but the sub won't work.
I hooked up a hi/low converter to a rear speaker an I hooked it up to the amp but nothing. a
any ideas?
I finally replaced my passenger side seatbelt mechanism.
I put in a mechanical locking one as I don't have the electric one with the electrical connector haha.
the oem electrical one was locked and wouldn't retract or let out and it was unsafe for passengers.
and the passenger seat was too far up and since the switch doesn't work, I had to get a car battery and give it power to move back a little.
I also hooked up my amp and subwoofer.
it didn't work. here's what I have.
I have a remote wire from the stock stereo to the amp and the power and grous cable.
the amp turns on but the sub won't work.
I hooked up a hi/low converter to a rear speaker an I hooked it up to the amp but nothing. a
any ideas?
ahh I see even with two intakes. the engine still sucks up the same air it would with one intake.
and I thought at high speeds somewhat more air would e shoved into the cylinder. guess not.
You say adding a second throttle body would help. (I'm not gonna do this, but curious)
it would help because it give the engine 2 different sources of air intake?
I'm no master mechanic. I barely started this auto trade. and I'm still learning as I go!
thanks for the info.
and I thought at high speeds somewhat more air would e shoved into the cylinder. guess not.
You say adding a second throttle body would help. (I'm not gonna do this, but curious)
it would help because it give the engine 2 different sources of air intake?
I'm no master mechanic. I barely started this auto trade. and I'm still learning as I go!
thanks for the info.
Not exactly. Ignore the intake track before the throttle body. What happens after the throttle body is completely different. When air is sucked past an orifice (the throttle body) into a larger chamber (the intake plenum) it tends to slow down slightly. Depending on the size of the orifice, you can slow or speed up this air inside the plenum. THAT speed plays a role in the filling of each cylinder. Without dyno tuning, you don't really know how your changes affect things. It could go either way.
It's the sam principle behind the intake spacers than guys install.
okay it makes sense.
and the spacers you say. some have some use. but I can't think of what system they work on.
where the fuel is interjected into the the intake and not the cylinder. giving the fuel a better chance to mix with the air for better combustion.
and the spacers you say. some have some use. but I can't think of what system they work on.
where the fuel is interjected into the the intake and not the cylinder. giving the fuel a better chance to mix with the air for better combustion.
Did you buy this from a guy in MD? I saw a car identical to this one being sold for $5000. Does this car have minor rear fender damage on right side?
ok thanks guys!
I'll replace the switch on the passenger seat and have to replace the whole dash and check if that crash sensor was replaced with when it was repaired.
and all the widows go down with the remote. I guess that's normal from what 5150ds said.
all the windows go up or down with the key in the door. but 5150ds you said first gen can go up too, isn't mine a first gen?
and sorry, I mean my airbag light is on, not the seat belt light.
I'm guessing because it doesn't get signal from the seat belts or airbags.
Does the car have an actual alarm? or is the remote just to lock or unlock with no alarm?
yea, 5k is a really good price!
I didn't have it checked out, my friend bought the car from co part with a damaged front end and he fixed it and drove it for a while and it went up for sale so I bought it! where else can you find a clean family car with 260 rwdhp?
any ideas on the compass? all it does is flash lines.
and any ideas on the doors not locking and unlocking with the key on/off.
bad door switch?
I'll replace the switch on the passenger seat and have to replace the whole dash and check if that crash sensor was replaced with when it was repaired.
and all the widows go down with the remote. I guess that's normal from what 5150ds said.
all the windows go up or down with the key in the door. but 5150ds you said first gen can go up too, isn't mine a first gen?
and sorry, I mean my airbag light is on, not the seat belt light.
I'm guessing because it doesn't get signal from the seat belts or airbags.
Does the car have an actual alarm? or is the remote just to lock or unlock with no alarm?
yea, 5k is a really good price!
I didn't have it checked out, my friend bought the car from co part with a damaged front end and he fixed it and drove it for a while and it went up for sale so I bought it! where else can you find a clean family car with 260 rwdhp?
any ideas on the compass? all it does is flash lines.
and any ideas on the doors not locking and unlocking with the key on/off.
bad door switch?
No @ ninja. I bought it in CA
@asadali91 yea. and it has 120k miles. now. it's had 119k miles when i bought it.
the car isn't crashed now. it's all fixed. I thought 5k was a good price for it.
Lately. when the car sits for a long time, over night or so.
when I turn it on, the Rpm jumps to idle rpm then it falls down to practically nothing and it sounds like the car is off then the rpms jump back up to idle,
when the Rpm rapidly drops, it seriously feels like the car will turn off, the other day it did turn off but now on really cold starts the rpm just drops real quick then goes to normal.
@asadali91 yea. and it has 120k miles. now. it's had 119k miles when i bought it.
the car isn't crashed now. it's all fixed. I thought 5k was a good price for it.
Lately. when the car sits for a long time, over night or so.
when I turn it on, the Rpm jumps to idle rpm then it falls down to practically nothing and it sounds like the car is off then the rpms jump back up to idle,
when the Rpm rapidly drops, it seriously feels like the car will turn off, the other day it did turn off but now on really cold starts the rpm just drops real quick then goes to normal.
No @ ninja. I bought it in CA
@asadali91 yea. and it has 120k miles. now. it's had 119k miles when i bought it.
the car isn't crashed now. it's all fixed. I thought 5k was a good price for it.
Lately. when the car sits for a long time, over night or so.
when I turn it on, the Rpm jumps to idle rpm then it falls down to practically nothing and it sounds like the car is off then the rpms jump back up to idle,
when the Rpm rapidly drops, it seriously feels like the car will turn off, the other day it did turn off but now on really cold starts the rpm just drops real quick then goes to normal.
@asadali91 yea. and it has 120k miles. now. it's had 119k miles when i bought it.
the car isn't crashed now. it's all fixed. I thought 5k was a good price for it.
Lately. when the car sits for a long time, over night or so.
when I turn it on, the Rpm jumps to idle rpm then it falls down to practically nothing and it sounds like the car is off then the rpms jump back up to idle,
when the Rpm rapidly drops, it seriously feels like the car will turn off, the other day it did turn off but now on really cold starts the rpm just drops real quick then goes to normal.
