Parts for repairs
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 14
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Parts for repairs
(Posted this in another thread but didnt get any responses so posting here)
Hey guys wanted someone info to make sure ive pin pointed the issue so I can order the right parts.
1) When making U turns if I step on the gas more or am carrying a lot of speed; the car makes a metal clanking sound (its pretty loud and is very annoying). When I straighten my steering wheel the sound disappears. Are my wheel bearing shot?
2) Brake rotor on the front left side has a crack in it. Im considering Stop tech slotted and OEM rotors. Which is better? Price difference between the two is about $40 in total for 4 rotors.
3) Looking to get rotors, pads and bearing hub assemblies changed (if the problem in 1. is the wheel bearing) so how long should it take the shop to work on all 4 wheels.
Thanks in advance.
Hey guys wanted someone info to make sure ive pin pointed the issue so I can order the right parts.
1) When making U turns if I step on the gas more or am carrying a lot of speed; the car makes a metal clanking sound (its pretty loud and is very annoying). When I straighten my steering wheel the sound disappears. Are my wheel bearing shot?
2) Brake rotor on the front left side has a crack in it. Im considering Stop tech slotted and OEM rotors. Which is better? Price difference between the two is about $40 in total for 4 rotors.
3) Looking to get rotors, pads and bearing hub assemblies changed (if the problem in 1. is the wheel bearing) so how long should it take the shop to work on all 4 wheels.
Thanks in advance.
The noise could be from a few different things, if you are taking it to a shop they will be better equipped to diagnose the problem better than I could over the internet.
If they do end up doing brakes and rotors all around labor should take them around 3 hours, if you do need a hub on the front it's about an hour per side.
Good luck, hope it's not all too expensive.
If they do end up doing brakes and rotors all around labor should take them around 3 hours, if you do need a hub on the front it's about an hour per side.
Good luck, hope it's not all too expensive.
I've found OEM rotors to "warp" way too easily.
I usually recommend OEM parts, but not in this case.
I've done brakes on my car 3 times. the first two times i used OEM rotors and they warped. Last time i used Centric rotors and they've felt great ever since!
I usually recommend OEM parts, but not in this case.
I've done brakes on my car 3 times. the first two times i used OEM rotors and they warped. Last time i used Centric rotors and they've felt great ever since!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 14
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
thanks for the responses.
I'll go with stoptechs then with oem pads.That settles the brake issue.
Now the creaking sound that comes when I go over bumps and clanking metal on metal sound when I make U turns is something I want to get to the bottom of.
I think taking it in and getting it inspected is the best route before I order any parts.
I kind of wanted take the car in just once and get everything done as opposed to going in multiple times as my car is a DD and getting time of work is hard.
Side note: there's a good deal on socket and wrench set on amazon.ca
for those looking to get a cheap set that is durable.
I'll go with stoptechs then with oem pads.That settles the brake issue.
Now the creaking sound that comes when I go over bumps and clanking metal on metal sound when I make U turns is something I want to get to the bottom of.
I think taking it in and getting it inspected is the best route before I order any parts.
I kind of wanted take the car in just once and get everything done as opposed to going in multiple times as my car is a DD and getting time of work is hard.
Side note: there's a good deal on socket and wrench set on amazon.ca
for those looking to get a cheap set that is durable.
Last edited by bigjee; Apr 10, 2013 at 05:59 PM.
(Posted this in another thread but didnt get any responses so posting here)
Hey guys wanted someone info to make sure ive pin pointed the issue so I can order the right parts.
1) When making U turns if I step on the gas more or am carrying a lot of speed; the car makes a metal clanking sound (its pretty loud and is very annoying). When I straighten my steering wheel the sound disappears. Are my wheel bearing shot?
2) Brake rotor on the front left side has a crack in it. Im considering Stop tech slotted and OEM rotors. Which is better? Price difference between the two is about $40 in total for 4 rotors.
3) Looking to get rotors, pads and bearing hub assemblies changed (if the problem in 1. is the wheel bearing) so how long should it take the shop to work on all 4 wheels.
Thanks in advance.
Hey guys wanted someone info to make sure ive pin pointed the issue so I can order the right parts.
1) When making U turns if I step on the gas more or am carrying a lot of speed; the car makes a metal clanking sound (its pretty loud and is very annoying). When I straighten my steering wheel the sound disappears. Are my wheel bearing shot?
2) Brake rotor on the front left side has a crack in it. Im considering Stop tech slotted and OEM rotors. Which is better? Price difference between the two is about $40 in total for 4 rotors.
3) Looking to get rotors, pads and bearing hub assemblies changed (if the problem in 1. is the wheel bearing) so how long should it take the shop to work on all 4 wheels.
Thanks in advance.
I'd be willing to bet that your front inner lower control arm bushings are shot. They are known to fail and cause the metal on metal clunking noise as described. I would check out the compression rod bushings while your down there also. Pretty good chance they are due for replacement as well.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 14
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Just called a shop and described the issue; scheduled an appointment and will be taking the car in soon.
when i explained the first issue to the guy over the phone he said it could be an issue with the cv joints. Not sure if that is something you guys have experienced.
I told them to take a thorough look at the cars various suspension bushings, so hopefully they will tell me whats needed.
The compression rod (entire assembly) was replaced 2 years ago on both sides. I'd hate to change them again but we will see what the shop says.
Thanks for the input guys; i'll report back with the findings
when i explained the first issue to the guy over the phone he said it could be an issue with the cv joints. Not sure if that is something you guys have experienced.
I told them to take a thorough look at the cars various suspension bushings, so hopefully they will tell me whats needed.
The compression rod (entire assembly) was replaced 2 years ago on both sides. I'd hate to change them again but we will see what the shop says.
Thanks for the input guys; i'll report back with the findings
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 14
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
UPDATE: Dealership replaced Front P/S swaybar link (part 54618-AL502) and the clunking sound is gone 
the brake judder has disappeared and the car feels butter smooth when braking. ( i haven't bedded the pads in yet but what do you guys suggest- letting it running and not brake harshly till 500 miles or bed them in like Stoptech recommends? )
I replaced my rotors with Centric premium and pads with OEM.
Would appreciate it if anyone could recommend a bedding in process.
One more thing to note is that the brakes have a low scrapping sound when i let of the brake and it disappears when apply them. The rear right pad seems to be scraping the rotor unevenly. Will post pictures soon.
Drivers side front:

Passenger side front:

drivers side rear:

passenger side rear:

The lines in the last photo are a cause for concern as im sure they will cause ridges on the rotor in the long term.
This is the condition of the rotors pads after basically just 20 miles.
What do you guys think?
I'm going to take it in tomorrow to have the rears looked at again and get to the bottom of this scraping sound.

the brake judder has disappeared and the car feels butter smooth when braking. ( i haven't bedded the pads in yet but what do you guys suggest- letting it running and not brake harshly till 500 miles or bed them in like Stoptech recommends? )
I replaced my rotors with Centric premium and pads with OEM.
Would appreciate it if anyone could recommend a bedding in process.
One more thing to note is that the brakes have a low scrapping sound when i let of the brake and it disappears when apply them. The rear right pad seems to be scraping the rotor unevenly. Will post pictures soon.
Drivers side front:

Passenger side front:

drivers side rear:

passenger side rear:

The lines in the last photo are a cause for concern as im sure they will cause ridges on the rotor in the long term.
This is the condition of the rotors pads after basically just 20 miles.
What do you guys think?
I'm going to take it in tomorrow to have the rears looked at again and get to the bottom of this scraping sound.
Last edited by bigjee; May 21, 2013 at 11:50 PM.
20 miles? I'd probably let them go a bit longer. But seeing as you had a shop do the work, i'd take it back.
My two suspected causes.
1
slide pins not properly lubricated not allowing the caliper to self-center after brake application
2
normal pad surface irregularities that will disappear after some wear from hard braking.
I've done plenty of brake jobs myself and usually it's #2 and goes away after 100-200 miles or so. But I usually recheck for #1 as that issue is much cheaper/easier to deal with sooner rather than later. Early on...it's a relubrication. Later on, it may cost you the rotor/pad/caliper
My two suspected causes.
1
slide pins not properly lubricated not allowing the caliper to self-center after brake application2
normal pad surface irregularities that will disappear after some wear from hard braking. I've done plenty of brake jobs myself and usually it's #2 and goes away after 100-200 miles or so. But I usually recheck for #1 as that issue is much cheaper/easier to deal with sooner rather than later. Early on...it's a relubrication. Later on, it may cost you the rotor/pad/caliper
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 14
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
20 miles? I'd probably let them go a bit longer. But seeing as you had a shop do the work, i'd take it back.
My two suspected causes.
1
slide pins not properly lubricated not allowing the caliper to self-center after brake application
2
normal pad surface irregularities that will disappear after some wear from hard braking.
I've done plenty of brake jobs myself and usually it's #2 and goes away after 100-200 miles or so. But I usually recheck for #1 as that issue is much cheaper/easier to deal with sooner rather than later. Early on...it's a relubrication. Later on, it may cost you the rotor/pad/caliper
My two suspected causes.
1
slide pins not properly lubricated not allowing the caliper to self-center after brake application2
normal pad surface irregularities that will disappear after some wear from hard braking. I've done plenty of brake jobs myself and usually it's #2 and goes away after 100-200 miles or so. But I usually recheck for #1 as that issue is much cheaper/easier to deal with sooner rather than later. Early on...it's a relubrication. Later on, it may cost you the rotor/pad/caliper
So the basic verdict after today's inspection was #2 as you described.
The dealership is saying that since I used aftermarket part rather than Nissan parts (centric rotors) they're saying that there's nothing they can do. But the technician said that the noise is less than it was yesterday and that the fit between pad and rotor is really close. I guess I'll just drive it 100-200 miles and assess it after that. For now I'm braking like a grandpa but I think ill probably bed them in over the weekend.
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