Ok, I did the search thing, both here and at FA, but couldn't find a definitive answer to my question:

If I locate an LSD off a 2004 6MT sedan, is it a drop in to my 2003? I've read the horror stories on the AT guys trying to make it work, hopefully the MT to MT version is less painful?

In my search, I learned all about the benefits of 1.5 vs 2, Quaife, Cusco, Nismo, etc, but I don't plan on autocrossing, racing, etc - I just want the inside rear wheel to quit lifting and spinning excessively when I take a quick corner, or when it rains Besides, the weird noises from the clutch types would drive me nuts over time

If this would work, would you trust your dealer to do it, or find a performance shop? Know of any good ones in the Birmingham/Atlanta markets?

 

The differential core will fit in the casing, and you won't need a new pinion gear (the horror story of AT guys.) The LSD core, however, will require different axle stubs, new oil seals and bearings.

Part numbers:
Axle stubs/flanges for stock LSD: 38220-AR011 and 38220-AR010.

2 Oil Seals ment for a stock limited slip equipped diff: 38342-P9010

And 2 Differential Bearing assemblies, also ment for a limited slip equipped diff: 38440-0C000.

These total close to $400 in parts. If you getting these from a donor car, make sure you get the axle stubs.

 

thanks for the insight and parts list, andyranck

any idea how much can I expect to pay for the core if I get it from the dealer? I'm guessing there aren't that many trashed 2004 G35 sedans w/MT6 around

one last question: can this be a DIY project, or does it require a bunch of special tools that only the dealership has?

 

You can use a 350Z, G35 coupe/sedan diff.....they are all the same. I have been running a coupe VLSD rear diff for 9 months. Straight bolt-in....45 min.
2003,2004 are the same. The only diff between the auto and 6spd is the final drive. Check www.car-part.com under "Carrier".

 

Just in case you didn't know, Quaife will likely be coming out with a Torsen based LSD sometime in the near future hopefully. Day and night difference in terms of performance when compared with the stock VLSD. Also doesn't have the negatives of making noises at low speeds like clutch types. Only do the stock VLSD swap if you can get the lsd core for cheap. Otherwise it wouldn't be worth it when you could have a much better performing unit for around the same price.

 

I know what your talking about but everyone else will not.

You ment to say the entire sealed case, cause I know that's what you found and bought. Without a doubt buying the entire diff assembly as in the entire sealed case, NO putting in parts! Is the way to do a oem VLSD swap, a lot cheaper then having to buy stub axles and paying to have it all installed, I know I learned the hard way. Even though I scored a oem vicous core for only $100, with the cost of the required parts and installation, it cost $900 to do. Had I known in advance that I would have been that close to the cost of a Nismo LSD, I would not have done the oem swap at all.

 

well, we finally had a warm, sunny day here, so I did some crawling around under the car. I agree, the whole unit replacement has to be the easier of the two suggestions.

There is a flange set on the drive shaft, and one each on the rear half shafts. Each flange has 4 bolts.

All I need to do is loosen/remove 12 bolts, drop the old out, and put the new in? Can it really be that easy?

 

As stated, good luck getting a complete casing from a donor. Of course as these cars get older, you're chances of finding a junkjard 03-04 coupe, an 04 6MT sedan, or an 03-04 track/touring 350z will increase.

I'm not sure if the FX45's would fit, and it does have a different gear ratio.

 

Woohoo! Dead thread revival. I just picked up a VLSD assembly from a junkyard. Unfortunately they weren't local. They told me over the phone it was complete. I got it today and it's missing the right side flange. Seal is in place but the flange is probably still attached to the axle at the junkyard. I'm working with them to get the part sent or return a small portion of my money. I just read on this thread that it requires special tools to insert the flange. I read the FSM and it says a slide hammer can pull it out. There's only a circle clip holding it in. It says to simply line up the gear teeth and hit it back in until the sound changes. Is there anything I should keep my eyes open for when putting this back in working order? I do plan to open the cover and inspect/clean before filling this and installing it.