G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Alternator or battery ????

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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:24 AM
  #16  
68_GT's Avatar
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From: Spring Texas
yeah I still have the original starter.

Can they be tested if they sometimes work perfectly and sometimes start slow ?

Are starters hard to change on these cars. Looks pretty buried in there.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:44 AM
  #17  
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by 68_GT
yeah I still have the original starter.

Can they be tested if they sometimes work perfectly and sometimes start slow ?

Are starters hard to change on these cars. Looks pretty buried in there.
If you still have the OEM starter, I would just replace it since you have over 100K. Yea, it's time consuming to change the damn thing because it's buried in the bottom. Took me about 3 hours! Make sure you disconnect the negative terminal of battery before doing it!!! Buy a good rebuilt one is the key, don't get any cheap stuff. You will pay a deposit for the core charge and return the old starter and you will get a refund. Or you can get a OEM one at parts.com which sell OEM parts.

Last but not least, make sure you are comfortable lying on your back. Get a soft pillow for your head, you will need it!
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:40 PM
  #18  
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From: Seneca, SC
Originally Posted by 68_GT
yeah I still have the original starter.

Can they be tested if they sometimes work perfectly and sometimes start slow ?

Are starters hard to change on these cars. Looks pretty buried in there.

BTW take a look at post #3 about the starter.

You can have the starter tested for free at any major auto parts store. Your not obligated to purchase a starter if its bad after having it tested.

Should not take 3 hours for a starter change out. I could do it under an 1 hour including jacking car up. Had to remove starter a few times for changing out transmissions.

Remove negative battery terminal with 10mm wrench.
Jack car up on passenger side and support with jack stand, if removing suspension support brace ensure car high enough to reach brace bolts on driver side.
.
Next Three Steps optional and makes it much easier to access starter:
Remove undertray/belly pan bolts (Two furthest back bolts) attached to front suspension brace using 10mm wrench.
Remove transmission belly pan bolts using 10mm wrench
Remove suspension brace using 14mm socket for bolts and 19mm deepwell socket for nuts. Will probably need a breaker bar for nuts- torqued to 114 Ft Lbs.

Disconnect Battery/Alt lead to starter using 12mm wrench.
Disconnect solenoid lead, may need flat tip screwdriver to seperate connector.
Remove two starter bolts using 14mm socket/wrench.

Repeat steps for installation, refer to FSM for torque specs.
 

Last edited by HotRodG35; Aug 21, 2013 at 02:11 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #19  
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From: Maryland
If the headlights aren't dimming then it could be your starter or crank sensor.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 10:09 PM
  #20  
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From: Winnipeg, MB Canada
Halfhour to do mine. You can just undo the two bolts and the solenoid wire and weasel it out without taking anything else apart besides the under tray. Kind of a must with anything under there.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #21  
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From: Spring Texas
I changed out the battery yesterday. So far so good. I'll post up if the problem persitsts. Crossing my fingers.

Autozone says if the battery had a bad cell it will still test good but not hold a charge which is what mine was doing. It got to the point over the weekend that I would put my battery charger on it and the next morning the battery was dead.
 
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