I have seen coupe's and sedans with 50K+ miles still on the original brakes, adn some get replaced around 15K, driving style has a lot to do with this. I have replaced clutches on 4 g35's. One had 65K miles, one with 45K, one with 30K and one with 2300 miles. The one with 2300 miles the owenr towed the car in and just said that the car needs a new clutch, he dosent know how to drive it, and once the clutch is replaced he would be trading it in for an auto so there was no need for us to wash it when done (I thought it was hilarious for us to not wash it because we would be keeping the car).

Maybe if all the manual equipped cars had them going out all the time it would be a warranty issue, but the truth is that there are many cars out there that are getting very many miles out of their original clutches. In fact, every nissan coprate person has demo cars, and they have 19 v35 vehicles in the fleet that are being driven on a daily basis with 35K+ miles and no problems (this came up in a meeting we had with them the other day).

I will say again...just go aftermarket when your stock one goes out. Think of it as an excuese to mod the drivetrain.

 

I can't argue that aftermarket is better. The suppliers have less volume and less chance that a defect will be shipped out. It may cost a little more but in the end will probably be better than the OEM piece since OEMs have to put sooooooooo many compromises in the vehicles to meet the "98 percentile driver".

 

damn..so are the clutchs really that bad on the g35? because im about to get one this weekend, a 05 6mt and im looking at the posts saying clutchs can go out prematuraly. i mean i know how to drive a manual transmission really good but goin out at 14k. that kinda sucks. so what yall guys think i should do..im goin to the dealer this weekend anyways and check it out.

 

Like I stated in a earlier e-mail. If the supplier produces a bad part, the clutch can go out at any time. If the supplier produces a part that meets the required specificaitons, the clutch should last well into the 50K + range before replacement.

 

Regardless of what anyone says, odds are the clutches that have gone out is due to driver error or driver abuse (such as racing a lot)... I drive my car pretty hard and the clutch feels the same as the day I bought it...

Sure there is a slim chance of a defective clutch, but I highly doubt it... I mean if the clutch snapped into several pieces, then ya defective clutch... If the clutch went out because of wear and tear, then definatly the drivers fault...

 

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...e#Post67966398

Similar situation posted on FreshAlloy (See link above). I've put both posts on the other's websites in the hope that this will bring out anyone else who has this problem. Having just purchased a 6MT sedan, I'm concerned that the clutch may burn out prematurely.

 

(steps up) Ah hem, This car is not made for drag racing. A sprint to speed every now and then is good for the soul, but, not for the clutch. This is a "Sports car", not "Deeeetroyt Iron". Would you have drag raced a 1963 Ferrari 250 GTO? Driven it fast, yes, dumped the clutch at 8000 RPM, NO!

There are ways to drive this car fast without abusing it.

(steps down)

I used to own a DUCATI Dharma 900, a wonderful bike, some kid on a "Crotch rocket" wanted to drag race to the next light. I said, "no thanks, but, I will race you to Goliad" (20 miles away) He just pouted and drove off. That shuts up most of them.

 

I am sure its the way your driving habits might be instead of abuse. My first 5spd car was a mazda protege. I killed the clutch in it at 15k of miles. It was mainly because I had a bad habit which I stopped of holding the car at lights with the clutch and never thought about wearing out the clutch like that. Ever since all my cars hardly show wear on the clutches anymore.

 

I've routinely got 100k miles + out of Honda clutches. The more chit I hear like this on this site, makes me want to skip this car. Damn.

 

I thought your user name was familiar. Your dave from maxima.org. You prob dont remember me but you were a lot of help!

 

I think they are trying to screw you too, please see my similar complaint. Is there any potential for a class action suit to force the dealers to cover their poor engineering? "My car grinds b/t 2nd and 3rd, and b/t 3rd and 4th. the dealer told me it's because my clutch is bad and so is not disengaging all the way. furthermore, the clutch still grabs great, no slippage. they want to charge $900 to install a new one. I only have 40k on the car, and it's mostly highway, i have only driven MTs and have NEVER burned it (I usually get the car moving without having to give it any revs.) Does it sound to anyone else like i'm being screwed for defective syncros?"

 

Anytime

 

you're f-ed. pardon my language, but i am still fuming. those kind folks at infiniti told me today that my clutch doesn't disengage all the way, so my car grinds b/t 2/3 and 3/4, and this is somehow my fault despite that fact that i never abused the clutch. the only has 39k on it, i have ONLY ever driven MTs and have never had replace the clutch as long as i owned the car 105k and 85k. The trannys on these cars suck and you be sure that you will foot the bill.

 

Hi. I am experiencing the same problem.. in fact, I joined this forum is while searching for a TSB. Dealer says my fault. I' 41yrs old, never even owned an AT in my life and have Toyo 4-runner w/150k has original clutch and they say its my fault, $2k to fix... unbelievable!

 

Is this for real????? I just got rid of a 2000 maxima SE (manual) that I absolutely beat the snot out of since day 1. I traded it with 136,000 miles and not a hint of any wear on the clutch. Before that I put 174,000 miles on on a saturn wagon before the friction point starting moving.... prior to that was a chevy nova with 284,000 miles - that was on its second clutch.

Is there anyone out there with good clutch stories? (>>50k miles WITHOUT problems???)

This sucks! I picked the car up last Wednesday.