front brake maintenance
#1
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Westchester, IL (near Chicago)
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front brake maintenance
I am going to be replacing the brakes on my 06 G35x this spring. This is a daily driver and isn't driven very hard (no performance pads needed) The pedal feel is perfect right now, but the car does have a slight wobble when you apply the brakes at speed (warped rotors). The car has 76k miles.
I would like to order parts online to save some bucks.
What pads do people typically recommend for daily drivers?
If the pedal feels good should I just top off the brake fluid or flush the system? If I do a full flush, any harm in doing it by just pumping it through the bleeder screw ensuring to keep the reservoir full with clean fluid and use a clear hose and when I see clean fluid, just bleed the system and call it good?
Is there anything else that I should replace / clean / inspect while I am in there?
Thanks
I would like to order parts online to save some bucks.
What pads do people typically recommend for daily drivers?
If the pedal feels good should I just top off the brake fluid or flush the system? If I do a full flush, any harm in doing it by just pumping it through the bleeder screw ensuring to keep the reservoir full with clean fluid and use a clear hose and when I see clean fluid, just bleed the system and call it good?
Is there anything else that I should replace / clean / inspect while I am in there?
Thanks
#2
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
I've always recommended Akebono ProACT pads for a DD. Good stopping power and very low dust. For rotors, I usually order Centric. StopTech, Powerslot, etc all start with a basic Centric rotor, order from the source, save a few bucks.
Bleed/flush the system is fine. Brake fluid should be replaced periodically.
Inspect the dust boots on the brake calipers, also inspect all bushings and ball joints while you have the wheel off.
Bleed/flush the system is fine. Brake fluid should be replaced periodically.
Inspect the dust boots on the brake calipers, also inspect all bushings and ball joints while you have the wheel off.
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PLENUMCOUPE (03-03-2014)
#3
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Westchester, IL (near Chicago)
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thanks for the fast response. I am putting a shopping cart together on rock-auto right now. They have several Centric parts to choose from. Which one specifically do you like the best? the price differences are not all that high.
Centric Standard Disk - $29.79
C-Tek: Sport Drilled & Slotted - $47.79
Premium preferred - $56.79
Premium cryogenically treated - $68.79
High Carbon Allow - $64.79
Stoptech sport drilled - $94.79
stoptech sport drilled/slotted - $96.79
Again, this is just a commuter / daily driver so I am thinking the premium preferred or standard disk.
I found the pads on the site, so I think it's just the rotors and I can place my order. Thank you
Centric Standard Disk - $29.79
C-Tek: Sport Drilled & Slotted - $47.79
Premium preferred - $56.79
Premium cryogenically treated - $68.79
High Carbon Allow - $64.79
Stoptech sport drilled - $94.79
stoptech sport drilled/slotted - $96.79
Again, this is just a commuter / daily driver so I am thinking the premium preferred or standard disk.
I found the pads on the site, so I think it's just the rotors and I can place my order. Thank you
#4
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
I think the difference between the standard and premium is that the premiums come with E-coating so they don't rust. The premiums have some additional machining and balancing done also. Probably worth the few extra bucks.
I personally run the high-carbon version, but I'm also running Carbotech performance pads.
I personally run the high-carbon version, but I'm also running Carbotech performance pads.
#6
I run OEM pads on my car. The stopping power has been fine, but the key points to me are low dust, and noise. My car is a daily driver so it's all I've ever needed. I've done 3 brake jobs with OEM pads.
Rotors are a different story. I replaced OEM with OEM once and they warped quickly. I think my next time around I went with Stop-tech and they have done quite well and resisted warping.
For brake fluid flushes, i flush my fluid yearly and always feel a difference. I use the Valvoline Synthetic fluid, and use a clear hose while a friend pumps a pedal method.
INSPECT your rear brakes. The caliper slide pins are notorious for seizing up and causing rear brake issues and soft pedal feel
Rotors are a different story. I replaced OEM with OEM once and they warped quickly. I think my next time around I went with Stop-tech and they have done quite well and resisted warping.
For brake fluid flushes, i flush my fluid yearly and always feel a difference. I use the Valvoline Synthetic fluid, and use a clear hose while a friend pumps a pedal method.
INSPECT your rear brakes. The caliper slide pins are notorious for seizing up and causing rear brake issues and soft pedal feel
#8
All brake fluid is synthetic. They aren't petroleum based and do not exist naturally. What i'm willing to bet is that is meant to imply to not use DOT 5 silicone based fluid
#10
For the most part, synthetic is looked to mean "the best"
WHen someone buys a car, and knows absolutely nothing about cars, but gets excited about it what's the first thing they do??? Synthetic oil!
Because they can not know a damn thing about cars, but know that synthetic must mean best!
Synthetic fluids, premium fuel (vs regular), spark plugs made out of unobtainium.....all good marketing strategies
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