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So, just to add to the conversation... I have this issue with my FX50. Replaced both sending units and fuel pump at the dealership. No change. Took my cluster to ezelectronics in NJ to get it repaired, still doesn't work, although I'm quite dissatisfied with their work. Not only is my fuel gauge still not working, now my exterior temperature is blank, and I've lost the ablilty to reset the milage in the center cluster. Button does nothing. I know the button is good, as it works for other functions.
I'm in Jersey, so I'm going to take it back to them to get it repaired correctly. (Luckily they didn't give me the black electrical tape fix like someone else on the forum) I guess they learned you didn't need to drill the cluster.....
Honestly, this car is a giant nightmare. After more than $1500 at the dealer throwing parts at the problem, nothing was fixed. When they told me to replace the IP, I balked, since I didn't want to spend another couple grand when I felt they were just throwing parts at the problem.
I've had 2 FX45's, and a G37 Sedan with no issues whatsoever. This whole ordeal has completely soured me on Infininti.
Just thought I'd vent. I'll let you know if the second IP fix works.
Nah it's still a cluster issue. Poked through the ebay listing and you send them the cluster. They're in Austin, Tx, they've been in business 22 years and have 100% feedback with over 1000 transactions so they seem legit. What made me laugh a bit is in the description they state this: "We understand the importance of quality service and the need to get your repaired part to you yesterday or sooner." Then if you look at the estimated delivery date it says this ummkay.
"Estimated between Tue. Jan. 15 and Fri. Jan. 18
This item has an extended handling time and a delivery estimate greater than 15 business days."
Hey guys. I know this isn’t exactly on the topic. I’m hoping someone can shed some light on this situation. I am trying to figure out the fuel level sender situation myself, but only to run a aftermarket dash. (Racepak) does anyone actually know exactly how the signal from both senders is read? Apparently it takes both ohm readings puts them together and determines what level the tank is at. My questions is where is it Taking them two values and converting them? Is it the cluster doing it? Or is it already done and the ohm reading is at pin7 on combination meter plug? I’ve tried getting the reading at pin 7 and I’m. It having the best luck. Does anyone know exactly how this works? This car is a complete sealed car. 2j with a Haltech elite 2500 with a racepak. Factory ecu is no longer with the car. Thanks
Based on the rough schematic in the fsm for the combination meter, it looks like all the sensing is in the combo meter. The schematic shows the two variable resistors in the sending units in series with the resistors in the combo meter that need to be touched up to fix the measurement issue. This would mean to me that the combo meter provides a voltage reference across the whole divider circuit and the voltage is sensed somewhere along that divider to indicate the fuel level. The logical place for this measurement would be in the combo meter. It's certainly not happening in the sending units.
I quickly browsed the haltech website forum and guys are talking about how to do this. They provide some kind of application guidance.
So been reading up on people with fuel gauge problems and I don't seem to have a solution for this. At this point its time to replace an item and well they are pricey.
Here it goes....
This is on my 2005 AWD sedan, currently with 86k miles. I keep detailed MPG logs and know i'm about 300miles per tank before i have to fill up with 15-17 gallons of fuel.
About 10k miles ago, i noticed that my fuel gauge while driving would slowly increase or decrease. Normally this would happen when i'm near 1/4 of a tank. By that time i should be in the 200-300 miles driven, it would slowly go up to half way and normally stop at 3/4 tank. A few key cycles and it would go back. This would happen randomly at stop lights and etc. It slowly got more and more common to a point where my normal day would be start car with 1/4 tank of gas, drive 10 miles to work and end up with 3/4 tank of gas. I saw the DIY cleaning of the sensors in the fuel tank. I cleaned it, it had a lot of dirty stuff as most people posted. NO DICE. It did get a little better but not much more. It knew when i filled up all the way. FULL TANK was always full tank.
About 2k miles ago all hell went loose. My fuel gauge only works from FULL to 3/4 now. It would never go any lower. I figured the sensor was stuck up, pulled out both units and NOTHING was binding. Then i remembered if it was stuck, then it would be stuck at the same location, this wasn't the problem. It moved from FULL to 3/4 give or take.
So now i'm kinda stuck here. Been reading around, i know there was a recall on my 03-04 M45 for the fuel gauge and the replacement was to replace the gauge cluster. I also seen on some postings here it was a suggestion option, all cars were under warranty so it was of no cost. It seems the common replacement was to replace both fuel units.
Pretty much is there anything I overlooked? Should i try something else? Replace the cluster or the fuel units? Driver's unit is like $75-100 and Pass side is $375-425
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Cliff notes.
Fuel gauge has mind of its own. Doesn't read right. I know for the fact i should have 1/4 tank of gas it will read 3/4. As time went on, now it only reads from FULL to 3/4 and nothing lower. Cleaned both fuel units inside tank TWICE and still have problem. Considering gauge cluster to be issue.
Good thread here. Thanks to all that have posted! I bought a used '05 G35x and quickly noticed that the gas gauge would start to bounce around once the gas level approached a 1/4 tank. It would react normally from full down to half, then all bets were off after that and made it difficult to know if I was going to run out of gas!!!
First, I did the instrument panel check/fix and the gauges appeared to be working fine, based on their response to the test. Next, I removed and cleaned the fuel senders from the gas tank, via the ports under the rear seat. This probably didn't hurt to do -- now I have clean sensors -- but, it didn't fix the problem.
MY FIX? What has appeared to work for me -- and was something that I was going to do anyways -- was to clean the fuel system. I bought the car from someone who was using Regular/87 gas and I decided immediately, upon learning that at the time of buying, that I was not going to follow suit and was going to use Premium/91 or higher. After I switched to Premium, btw, I noticed a HUGE improvement in the car's response (as to be expected, based on specs). Beyond that, after my first fill-up following my purchase of the car, I added some STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner to the car -- knowing that it had been running Regular gas for years. The combination of the Premium gas (Shell V-Power) and the STP fuel system cleaner appears to have fixed my fuel gauge issues! Just some helpful tips, based on my experience.
So I have used two different people on eBay (the one in NJ mentioned above and the one in Texas) to fix a cluster and both did not do a very satisfactory job in my opinion and I have found that the solution to fix this problem and some other problems like dim led lights (very common with the odometer LCD display) are quite simple if you know how to carefully remove the cluster from the car, disassemble it correctly and have decent soldering skills, which neither of the other guys seem to possess, in my opinion after inspecting their work. I also don't like people taking advantage of other people's troubles and pains when they know the fix, but will not share it with the thousands if not 100 of thousands G35 owners having the exact same problem because Infiniti / Nissan had obvious manufacturing problems with their clusters. I will not go into the details about their work, but I can tell you based on my experience that both did not seem to know their way around the G35 cluster as you would expect and based on their claims within their postings. If you want to tackle this on your own read on because I will tell you the exact resistor contacts that you should inspect and re-solder. I am not going to go through all the specifics on how to remove the cluster from the car or disassemble the cluster because there are videos out there that already cover those two items. I am going to show you the cluster's circuit board and the soldering locations. A few notes first though, you will need the following tools before you get started:
phillips screwdriver (used to disassemble the cluster)
fine flat trim tool to separate the plastic gauge material from the board (flat head screw driver will work also if you are careful)
good soldering iron with a very small tip (and steady hands)
a magnifying glass because the soldering points are very small at least the led odometer ones are.
So here's the moment you have all been waiting for so lets get right to the point.
Here's a picture of the front right side of the cluster board (2006 G35). All the points circled in red show the resistors where the solder joints can go bad and separate from the board causing the erratic problems with the fuel gauge. As a reference I have circled the MPH gauge motor in blue and the fuel gauge motor in purple.So there you have it, very simple and easy, but not for the faint of heart because you can easily ruin a cluster if you do not have the proper patience and skills.
So now lets get to the led lights for the odometer display issues - dimming, flickering, or just completely not working.
This is the back left side of the board, which is a little bit easier to get to because you do not need to remove the two LCD displays to fix it. On the back side of the board on the bottom left side where you see the pins from the odometer LCD display sticking through you will see a lot of small (smaller than the front side shown above for the fuel gauge fix) resistors that need to be re-soldered to fix the cold joints. All the resistors in the red rectangle should be re-soldered if your odometer display is not lit up like it should be.
Soldering hints: Because one side of the resistor may not be attached (the very problem described here), it is possible for the resistor to move / shift while trying to re-solder it. It is best to apply light pressure and maybe even hold the resistor with a small tool that would not damage the resistor while trying to solder the first side you are working on. This happened to me twice while I was repairing a board so I started to hold them in place when re-soldering the first side. It shouldn't happened on the second side because your new soldering joint (if done correctly) will hold it in place.
After you are done, you and your G35 will be able to enjoy the good life again.
If you need the proper method for disassembling the cluster, let me know so you don't end up doing stupid things like the person in Texas who thinks you have to drill through the plastic to remove the screw underneath it. like in the following picture: It may be hard to see in the picture, but it is quite obvious when looking at it directly. He drilled through the plastic cover to unscrew the screw underneath it. This is not necessary because you should remove the whole plastic display piece then you unscrew the screws to get to the board. He obviously was clueless on how to work on the G35 cluster. He then covers the hole with black electrical tape like that is professional work, not. Please don't do stupid things like this idiot.
I hope you enjoyed this post and good luck, if you decide to tackle this on your own. I spent way too many hours and money trying to research and fix this problem so I thought I would share it so you wouldn't have to go through the same thing I went through.
Riche, you are a godsend! I had been working on this problem on my sedan for over a year(on and off) and it was driving me crazy. it took me forever to find out that it wasn't just the sending units(even after replacing them completely). after what seemed like months of searching for a similar mileage G35 at the local wreckers i found this write up and you saved me! i was ready to just take the car and just take trade-in rather than spend $1,400.00 plus setting labor to the stealership. The only downside now is that my sister's friend(who has an '05 coupe) now wants me to do the job to her car(lmao).
Again i appreciate you taking the time to create an entry with the pictures and details you did!!!!!
I had the same fuel gauge not reading accurately problem and recently starting showing code P0462 on my 2005 G35. I finally found a local place here in NJ and brought my car in for a cluster/ gauge repair.. They also do business online. The name of the business is Eastern Electronics in Elmwood Park, NJ. Theo is the owner. He repaired the cluster and fixed my fuel gauge as well as my speedometer. It took him a few hours. My fuel gauge works perfectly now. I was told by my mechanic that it was the sending unit but it did not resolve the problem. So I took it to Infiniti dealership and was told I needed a new cluster for about $1200, a quarter of what I paid for the cluster repair. So now my fuel gage and my speedometer works good as new.. So contact Eastern Electronics and speak with the owner, he will answer all your questions and let you know if he can repair it. Evidently he is expert and one of the best in the business and can handle all car makes,. Hope this info helps someone..
That's great to hear, I went to the scrap yard and bought another cluster but I was having the same problem, that's when I decided to look online and send it to a local mechanic and he was able to diagnose the problem and it was the issue was climate control on top of the radio. I heard about those guys but before I decided to send the cluster, I decided to get another cluster for $15.
I know this is an old thread and bumping these are sort of taboo, but this thread single handedly helped me whoop my fuel gauge issues ***! I fought with the fuel senders thinking that there is no way the instrument cluster could be the issue. Turns out that it was and that I had to re-solder the resistor connections that Riche provided. Kudos to him for the detailed pictures and for the tips from everyone else also! Saved me nearly $200 by doing it myself rather than buying a new cluster or sending it off for repair. Recalibration of the needles can get tricky as well and this thread helped on that front bigtime also. You don't realize how handy something as simple as a fuel gauge is until you are forced to drive without one. With this thread, no fuel gauge issue is impossible to solve. I'm motoring on in my G now!
I had the same issue for the past 2 years, I have change both sending unit and fuel pump like 3 times after infiniti recommended me to do so, I have bought a second cluster at the scrap and i was having the same problem so I went to a local garage they check wires and everyting seems fine until the head mechanic said we will change the AMPLIFIER CONTROL AIR CONDITIONER 277601NM6D and it resolved my problem. No problem after that so check that first. I bougt that part for $15 at the scrap and I was told its almost $200-300 new.
So I might have spoken too soon. Gauge was at 3/4 tank last night when I got home. Fired up this morning and it goes to the full mark. ??? By the time I got to work it slowly fell back to where it should be at slightly under 3/4. What gives? Am I looking at the cause being something entirely different now, like flipmode007 refers to about the AMPLIFIER CONTROL AIR CONDITIONER 277601NM6D? Has it been that thing the whole time? I guess I'll try to find one and replace it next. Sheesh
12-13-2018, 02:37 PM
