G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

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  #31  
Old 10-17-2014, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustang5L5
I hate that statement with a passion. I hate how people assume that unless you put 93 octane in your car, or run synthetic oils in every orifice that will hold them, you don't care about your car.

I'm a mech engineer. I know what happens when you run lower octane in a premium "recommended" car. I know how the fuel and timing curves are adjusted to help prevent detonation. I know that max power requires the higher octane. What i also know is I don't need high octane to sit in 3 hours of traffic each day and barely exceed 45MPH.
Exactly. This morning I don't think I exceeded 50mph, and my drive home I'm lucky to get over 30. so if its just going to be idled away, why not idle away cheaper stuff so I can buy more of it it idle away... anyways...

I need to pull my tires off and look at the bushings in the next week or two, I have a slight cluck in the front driver's side.

Is it better to replace just the bushing, or get a whole new compression rod? seems like it would be better to just replace the whole thing, Faster too.
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 01:37 PM
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Depends on your ambition.

Cheaper to replace bushing only, but quicker to do the entire rod. If i was replacing one on my car, i'd just do the entire rod. I'd pay extra for an easier install anyday.

RWD parts are easy to find. Rockauto.com has a lot. Ebay also has a lot of nissan dealerships selling OEM parts at decent cost.
 
  #33  
Old 10-17-2014, 01:46 PM
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I just installed a full suspension on my XJ cherokee, and I'm really not up to do doing a lot of suspension work, but I don't want to prematurely wear out my tires if I can avoid it.
 
  #34  
Old 10-17-2014, 04:47 PM
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Running regular ain't gonna hurt nothing, brah as long as yer knock sensors are working. Your engine will just pull back timing to account for the earlier detonation. The only reason its 'recommended' is because that's what the engineers used when they built the motor. They most likely have no data concerning what happens when you use regular. Could lose 10 HP, could lose 2. Its not even necessary to run it 'now and then'. It doesn't help keep things clean, or detoxify its bloodstream. It merely detonates at different temperatures and your knock sensors figure out the rest.

Now that being said, I don't want to read that you're buying exhausts and CAIs, and plenum spacers and other performance mods if you're using regular. It would be quite a contradiction to pay $1000 for 20hp when youre missing out on 5hp because you're trying to save $2.
 
  #35  
Old 10-17-2014, 06:25 PM
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hahahahaha.... I'm married with 3 kids living on a single income, the ONLY thing my wife is gonna let me do to the thing is fix what's broke. (mainly the radio and maybe the bushings, still have to check those). Plus I spend my "fun money" on my 89 XJ cherokee I beat off road.

The reason why I run 91 vs 87 is when I travel, I know the engines run at higher RPMs for a longer period of time, especially when climbing hills, or when I have a heavy car load. higher rpms could mean more ping and a higher likelyhood of causing damage.

And the places I tend to go they don't have 87, they typically carry 85 (utah/colorado) and I've had that ruin engines on me before, even on cars that don't suggest premium. so I'm willing to put in 91.
 
  #36  
Old 10-20-2014, 10:25 AM
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Wellllll..... New car is in the shop, but I'm not really complaining.

Part of the deal of me buying it was that they would rebalance the tires, so I took it in saturday for that, but while I was there, they asked me if there was anything else I would like/needed taken care of, and I told them there was a slight clunk in the front end and the rear windows wouldn't roll back up without the battery being reset. So they are going to take care of those things for me today/tomorrow.
 
  #37  
Old 10-22-2014, 05:17 PM
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Its still in the shop....


I guess who ever ordered the new window parts ordered them 3 day, vs over night, so they won't be in until tomorrow afternoon. I'm driving their chevy traverse for now, but it will be friday afternoon/saturday before they will be done working on it. Its being done for free so I'm not complaining, but I want to drive my new car.
 
  #38  
Old 10-22-2014, 09:37 PM
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Good that they are taking care of you, bad you don't get the same effect of gas pedal response on the loaner verses the G.
 
  #39  
Old 10-23-2014, 01:09 PM
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Yay! they are done, I can go pick up my car after work. I will need to do the control arm myself, but that was $60, and should take me under 2 hours easy to do myself.
 
  #40  
Old 10-24-2014, 01:01 AM
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Congrats on your G, I just got mine a couple of months ago, 04 sedan 155k 6-speed.
 
  #41  
Old 11-02-2014, 12:04 PM
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  #42  
Old 11-07-2014, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by aroundincircles
Wellllll..... New car is in the shop, but I'm not really complaining.

Part of the deal of me buying it was that they would rebalance the tires, so I took it in saturday for that, but while I was there, they asked me if there was anything else I would like/needed taken care of, and I told them there was a slight clunk in the front end and the rear windows wouldn't roll back up without the battery being reset. So they are going to take care of those things for me today/tomorrow.
That's the good thing from buying from a reputable dealer - they'll usually fix some things as part of the deal... on top of servicing the vehicle. I noticed on the Carfax that they gave me that all fluids had been replaced, new drive belts installed and the front rotors had been surfaced (the pads kinda suck though).

When I bought my G a couple of months ago, it had some tint that was in bad shape & the radio stopped working during the test drive. I told them that I wanted the old tint removed and fix the radio. It was noted on a "We Owe" document...

Good thing, that's when I realized what a big deal the Bose H/U was to replace in these cars!
 
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