ok i just want to add something that not related to the compression rod, i just recently did and oil change on my G and i did not go with the g35 oil filter but i just have to pick up the FX45 oil filter and compare the two , the FX45 oil filter is about an inch longer then the G so i decide to go with that! More filter capacity! have anyone been using FX45 oil filter on there car ? if not i hope this a helpful tip:

 

Greater surface area at a constant flow into the filter equals reduced pressure drop across the filter media.

Without understanding the full effects of changing the filter on the car's oil system, I'm hesitant to install a larger filter. The reduced pressure drop could cause a slight loss in oil pressure in the system. It could be negligible, but without an accurate oil pressure gauge, we won't really know. More than likely, would be perfectly fine but I'm too lazy to do a DOE.

 

Tbh I am looking for a location to mount a high and low oil pressure/temp gauge...

The amount of critical failures on our off highway equipment fleet have led to us requiring them on fleet vehicles now... And it's cool to see .

 

WOW! i never thought of larger oil filter would might cause some of oil pressure lost, but so far so good.... thanks for the head up

 

I trust the engineers that designed the engine... Mostly.

 

I have an Autometer mech. Oil pressure gauge in my Mustang, and it is interesting to see just how much the oil pressure changes with regards to RPM and engine oil temp.

Most cars these days just have idiot gauges that sit dead center and never move, but that's not the case if you watch a real gauge.


There is one critical part of the 3.5L that I hate, and that's the location of the low oil pressure switch. It's mounted on the side of the oil filter mount. Why do I hate it? Because at some point in the past, while removing the oil filter, i must have slipped and hit it because I snapped the connector off the sensor and discovered it free-hanging last time i had the car on the lift. I never noticed it before.

With the oil pressure switch busted, and the wire unpluged you get ZERO light in the dash. I'm going to assume the switch is normally opened when there is pressure, and closes when there is no pressure. However with it unplugged, it's always open so no light..ever. Who knows how long it's been busted, but i've been driving for who knows how long without a low oil pressure switch.

If i were to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in the car (and no plans to at the moment) I would probably just yank the stock low pressure switch out and instal the gauge sender there, and run the wires up to the A-pillar and mount a coupe pod there. Yes, you would lose the low oil pressure idiot light...but you have a gauge now. Downside is an autometer electric full-sweep gauge is a $200+ gauge, while a mechanical gauge is $50. But good luck running a line from that corner of the engine up to the A-pillar area.

 

More than likely you are perfectly fine and I am just overthinking things....


I'm actually an engineer that works in filtration systems for "devices". The filter is usually spec'ed in such a way that it works with the system as a whole in terms of regulating pressures, and flow rates, and maintaining a min pressure in parts of the system. I've personally seen how changing out filters can affect other areas of the system. But like i said, my background is probably causing me to overthink this as i'm usually the guy spec'ing parts for a reason, and hate when people change things up without understanding the effects.

But i've had that larger oil filter in my hands at the parts store quite a few times myself....

 

OK guy back to the compression rod..... i've change both of my compression rod this pass October of 2014 and the clunking noise already come back! it is normal? i live in the New England and we have really bad winter this year, we have snow storm almost every week this pass few month. Yesterday i took the compression rod of my car and check , there is no play where the ball joint end compare to the OEM rod this is a bit of a play when i pull on the ball joint and also the bushing is new no crack or anything. Could it be the actually lower control Arm ball joints that is bad?

 

Mustang has convinced me that at 180K miles, my lower ball joints (between knuckle and control arm) are still good. I beat on them/around them the other day, and couldn't find any movement or noise.

SOOOooooooooo....with that said, the next two things I would check, in order:

1. Stabilizer bar end links (check the ball joint in the control arm and the end link joint itself, where it attaches to the stabilizer bar.

2. Check your strut mount nuts (under the hood, the biggest nut in the center of the 3 smaller nuts where your strut mounts to the car) and make sure it's cinched down really well. Will have to use an impact wrench for this, most likely. Even then, you may have to put a vise grips around the upper rod of the strut (use a cloth or some rubber between the grips and shaft to keep from marring it) to keep it from spinning while you tighten the bolt from the top.

 

I'd also check your upper control arm ball joints and tie rod ends.

 

ok sense the weather is going to be on the higher 30 ill check all that to make sure everything is tightening up right.... clucking noise coming from both side now ... Was going to change the lower ball joint to see if the clunking noise will go away, Would anyone recommend auto zone duralast ball joint(50$)? also my buddy of the same car and i change his compression rod on the driver side and the clunking noise gone away and his still fine.. One thing that i did to my car is that i have a lowing springs on it , this my cause stress on the suspension?

 

If it's now coming from both sides, my first guess is stabilizer bar end links. Once one weakens, the other picks up some added stress and fails soon thereafter.