I have come from muscle cars, last car was 04 mustang gt. Ok, my question.....with the mustang when you lowered it it had horrible traction even with upper lower control arms and some very sticky tires. I know that lowering effects the geometry and the weight distribution. Is this that big of a problem with the g community? sedan

 

That's an inherit problem with any RWD car that you lower. The reduction of suspension travel reduces the amount of weight shift during a launch that helps plant the rear tires, especially the passenger rear which tends to be the one that breaks free. Add on top of that the fact that most guys tend to run 17", 18", 19" or 20" wheels and you really don't have a setup ideal for drag racing. Plus 5AT G35's have an open rear differential

Most guys here lower for looks anyway, and not for drag racing. The ideal setup is far from what most guys would want their cars to look like. 15" rims, sticky drag radials, a limited slip diff, stock ride height and lot and lot of practice on the launch.

Really is an apples and oranges comparison though. If you set the car up for drag racing, it isn't ideal for road course racing. Opposite is true as well. If you lower the car, and install big wheels for handling (less sidewall flex and roll) it tends to make transfering weight on the launch more difficult and as a result, easier to break the tires loose.

Of course, matching components is just as important with either car. A good setup makes world of a difference vs just slapping some springs on and calling it a day

 

As long as you keep your contact patch under control your traction should be just fine. Outstanding even. Our cars problem is that the negative camber from the factory is pretty extreme, so once you lower it, the top of your tires just sinks in and reduces your contact patch heavily. Adjustable a-arms up front will fix it, and camber arms out back. The rear toe gets screwed too, so you need some eccentric toe bolts.

 

ThAnks for the replies , yeah im not really going to dragging this one just bought another 67 c10swb with a 383 ... I just dont want to lose road traction, thats why i got rid of mustang no matter what i did inslid all over the place , therfore making the car slower than it actually was

 

A good alignment shop should have been able to tell you what you needed to maintain the contact patch for better traction. After lowering my G and including a total camber kit my shop also corner weighted her too for an amazing ride with no loss of traction on tight turns.
Gary

 

Lowering improves handling, not straight line traction. When Iowered mine, it improved handling quite a bit. It also left me with about 1.2 deg of positive camber which didn't hurt at all in the turns.

 

You have coil overs?

 

Live rear axle with a 4-link setup. When you lower a Mustang there is no camber adjustment to worry about out back. Front has adjustable camber which can be adjusted. Really all an alignment does is orient the front wheels to the rear live axle which is non-adjustable. Contact patch out back never changes, however you can stick some massive tires out back. 315's to 335 width rear tires.

I've drag raced Mustangs for years now. This really is an apples and oranges comparison here. Most suspension kits sold aren't really ideal for drag racing.

 

RWD 5AT sedans with the sport package have a VLSD in the rear. But with higher miles though the VLSD is probably shot and its open again