G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

New G35X owner... also need some help....please :)

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Old 04-03-2016, 01:29 AM
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Red face New G35X owner... also need some help....please :)

Hello guys and gals, I bought a 06 G35X Sedan last year... just so I could improve my credit score and trade it in for a Honda or BMW this year. Credit score is where I want it to be now, but the funny thing is that I fell in love with this car! No problems whatsoever. The only thing that comes and goes is the damn check engine light. It's always the same damn code -- gas/gas cap. Toyota ordered a new gas cap and still nothing. I gave up and just drive it like that. No biggie.
I decided that i'm going to just keep it. Like I said... I FELL IN LOVE WITH THIS CAR. I'm about to start spending some serious cash on this baby, and the first thing I want to do is get a new double din. My Bose CD player took a dump and it's not working, only the radio. Thanks to some of you, I've heard about JDM (to stay away from metra), so that's what I'm about to get and a nice double dim. Any recommendations? Something below $500.

Ok, so aside from the JDM kit and double dim, do I need to buy any type of special wiring since I have a Bose system? Yes, my car has Navigation, too, so I don't know if this is important. I checked some Youtube vids, but no dice.


ALSO, what type of rims do you recommend? I was thinking some 19". I wouldn't mind some stock infinitis either. Mine are 17", but they have a lot of curb rash. My car is fully stock; nothing has been done to it, and like I stated... i'm about to start spending some mula on this baby.

Car stereo first, and then rims... but if i can find some good & cheap rims, too, heck why not.

If anybody is from the Portland-Salem area and you work on infinitis, let me know. Thanks guys and I appreciate your help.
 
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:42 AM
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I also have nav and it still works great with my JDM DD kit. The only thing you lose is the lady's voice telling you stuff. As far as my HU, I went with a Kenwood and am very happy with it. It has a spot to plug in a rear camera and shows up when I put it in reverse. I also went with Kenwood camera since they were rated good.

As far as rims... depending on your budget, the OEM 19 Rays are best bang for your buck. Look great and high quality.
 
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dukehotty
I also have nav and it still works great with my JDM DD kit. The only thing you lose is the lady's voice telling you stuff. As far as my HU, I went with a Kenwood and am very happy with it. It has a spot to plug in a rear camera and shows up when I put it in reverse. I also went with Kenwood camera since they were rated good.

As far as rims... depending on your budget, the OEM 19 Rays are best bang for your buck. Look great and high quality.
Been doing some research, and I guess I do have to get some extra wires for the wheel controls and bluetooth. Not only that, but I also read that a lot of DD's don't work too well with the bose speakers/AMP? Shoot, it seems like I have to replace a lot of things. Been checking eBay, too, $195 to have the Bose HU fixed. I honestly wouldn't mind that, and just buy an iPod/iphone adapter (I believe USA Spec makes them.) I honestly just need something for my iPhone to work.

YES! OEM 19 RAYS!!!!! Been checking Craigslist and eBay, but no dice, either. So here I am checking Les Schwab for some rims.

Thanks for the response. I appreciate it.
 
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:50 PM
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Please do not use the Bose hu. It is a complete pos. The kenwood I bought has built in Bluetooth and the adapter for steering wheel is pretty inexpensive. I really tried to keep it stock and wasted money trying to make it sound better. You CAN just replace the Bose and use every thing else and it will sound 200 times better. Actually sounded great with kenwood and stock Bose amp.
 
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:47 PM
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Dukehotty, if you don't mind me asking, what Kenwood did you get? Model number? So no extra wires/adapters (aside from the steering wheel adapter) for the Bose amp? I really don't care too much for bluetooth. All I want is to play my music with that bad azz Bose speakers (I actually like the Bose speakers.)
 
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:04 AM
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I have the DDX418. My only complaint is the iPod USB Connection is on the front. I use a micro usb 8gig for a crap load of music, music from phone via Bluetooth and you can watch DVDs. I got some awesome DVDs of just music videos. Another awesome feature is you can match the color of the lights to your car. My model is years old but works perfectly. Get rid of the Bose head unit. I have Bose in my house and love it. Don't know how they put their name on this headunit. There is a pic of the dd and factory nav in my profile.
 
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dukehotty
I have the DDX418. My only complaint is the iPod USB Connection is on the front. I use a micro usb 8gig for a crap load of music, music from phone via Bluetooth and you can watch DVDs. I got some awesome DVDs of just music videos. Another awesome feature is you can match the color of the lights to your car. My model is years old but works perfectly. Get rid of the Bose head unit. I have Bose in my house and love it. Don't know how they put their name on this headunit. There is a pic of the dd and factory nav in my profile.
Thanks a lot for your help! I really appreciate it! Just checked/googled the DD model #, and Best Buy has it for $164!!!! That is a steal! Like I said, bro, I just need something for my iPod/iphone and this sounds perfect. Are you running the stock speakers??? If so, how do they sound? I'm thinking of keeping the stock speakers since I like the way they sound! Again, thanks for your help.
 
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:15 PM
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What's the actual code you are getting for the CEL?

There are two other causes for that code that most people attribute to the gas cap. One is a $100 solenoid in the engine bay, and the other is a $40 solenoid under the rear bumper of the car.

Most often, it's the one under the rear bumper.
 
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustang5L5
What's the actual code you are getting for the CEL?

There are two other causes for that code that most people attribute to the gas cap. One is a $100 solenoid in the engine bay, and the other is a $40 solenoid under the rear bumper of the car.

Most often, it's the one under the rear bumper.
P0455 I have a hunch
 
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by yosip1115
P0455 I have a hunch
Mine as well. Seems to be the common one. Most people go for the gas cap first, but in my case, it was the one under the rear bumper.

$40 and 5 mins to install with a 10mm nutdriver.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...e-p0455-2.html
 
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:04 PM
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is there an easy way to troubleshoot which one it is? i have an intermittent evap code (don't recall the number at the moment) and don't want to waste money on parts. i could look it up in the manual but if someone knows some quick trick to easily isolate the source without a consult device, that would be great.
 
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Mustang5L5
What's the actual code you are getting for the CEL?

There are two other causes for that code that most people attribute to the gas cap. One is a $100 solenoid in the engine bay, and the other is a $40 solenoid under the rear bumper of the car.

Most often, it's the one under the rear bumper.
Honestly, I don't recall. It's been like a year now. I just gave up cause nothing was working. The mechanic at Toyota told me that they sent it to Nissan and they could not find anything wrong. I do remember something about "solenoid" but never gave it a second thought since Nissan said they could not locate anything wrong with it. Been driving this car like that for about a year now, and it did turn off one day ( for about 2 months) and came back on after. I was told, though, that if the check engine light was to start blinking, to pull over asap and have it towed. Over a year now and so far no problems (knocking on wood.)
I will take to autozone this weekend and have it checked out and I'll be back with the code.

Other than that, no major problems. About to hit 100k very soon, and the only thing that went to crap was the Bose HU.

Thanks
 
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jbarnett250
is there an easy way to troubleshoot which one it is? i have an intermittent evap code (don't recall the number at the moment) and don't want to waste money on parts. i could look it up in the manual but if someone knows some quick trick to easily isolate the source without a consult device, that would be great.

Page 400-470

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/ec.pdf

You can narrow it down based on the code you actually have.
 
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SavioR Cee
Honestly, I don't recall. It's been like a year now. I just gave up cause nothing was working. The mechanic at Toyota told me that they sent it to Nissan and they could not find anything wrong. I do remember something about "solenoid" but never gave it a second thought since Nissan said they could not locate anything wrong with it. Been driving this car like that for about a year now, and it did turn off one day ( for about 2 months) and came back on after. I was told, though, that if the check engine light was to start blinking, to pull over asap and have it towed. Over a year now and so far no problems (knocking on wood.)
I will take to autozone this weekend and have it checked out and I'll be back with the code.

Other than that, no major problems. About to hit 100k very soon, and the only thing that went to crap was the Bose HU.

Thanks

Blinking CEL is a severe misfire. It would be unrelated to your EVAP code.

Honestly. your evap code is harmless. It just means some sort of unburned hydrocarbons might be escaping to atmosphere. Since the EPA wants all cars to have sealed vacuum systems, this code is generated and you fail inspection. It's a silly useless, harmless code but have to pay $$ to get it fixed.
 
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustang5L5
Blinking CEL is a severe misfire. It would be unrelated to your EVAP code.

Honestly. your evap code is harmless. It just means some sort of unburned hydrocarbons might be escaping to atmosphere. Since the EPA wants all cars to have sealed vacuum systems, this code is generated and you fail inspection. It's a silly useless, harmless code but have to pay $$ to get it fixed.
Learned something new today. Thanks.

A co worker and I were talking about this last night, too. He told me to get it fixed or I'll fail the inspection. I have a year to go before I have an inspection. Trust me, it does get annoying seeing the check engine light on all the time. At times, when I'm driving, I start to think if maybe there is something wrong with with my car. I have my car checked every 4,000 miles. The mechanic who works at Toyota (I purchased my car from a Toyota dealership) told me that the car is all good, and that I shouldn't worry about nothing. He even calls me or texts me once a month to see how my car is doing, and if anything, to bring it in so he can check it out.

Like I stated earlier, car is about to hit 100k soon (1,000 miles to go) and i'm gonna do a full tune up. Thinking of doing everything myself, too

Be back with a code this weekend. Thanks again for the info and your help. Very appreciated.
 
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