They shipped it on Monday and I received it on Thursday. So 4 days. When you click on more info on the eBay posting, it says when they receive it, they'll repair it the same day or the next day. Then they'll ship it as expedited shipping. You can drive it without a cluster but the miles will be in accounted for. Also, you won't have access to headlights, windshield wipers, turn signals, or adjusting the sideview mirrors. All in all, I priority shipped it on Thursday and received it the following Thursday.

 

Can anyone chime in on the relation between their fuel gauge and their "fuel economy" option through the nav system? The point I'm trying to make is that my gauge (even though it's unreliable like the rest of you) is synced with the "miles til empty" info in my fuel economy option though the nav system. (So even when both gauges read "100ish miles til empty" the car is actually on empty). Can anyone confirm that it's a fuel pump related issue rather than a gauge issue in this case??

 

I think once you repair your instrument cluster it'll fix the fuel information on the nav since the nav is reading the same as the fuel gauge.

 

Yep, view the instrument cluster/combination meter as simply a display that works on electrical signals sent to it by other devices. For example, elsewhere on the care are the sensors needed to display your RPM's. That information is generated somewhere else and the electrical signal gets sent to the instrument cluster. The cluster simply says something like 'oh, I am receiving this signal? This means I should display 3000 RPM', just as the fuel system measures the quantity of fuel in the car and it sends an electrical impulse to the gauge, and the cluster received the signal and translates that impulse into 3/4 of a tank or whatever.

I do believe that the Nav system display is similar; the miles-per-tank is calculated by the car's computer, and the Nav display or the combination meter really just display whatever signal they receive.

 

 

Personally I would stay away from salvage titled cars. Some don't mind but they are usually people who can fix a lot of potential issues that might pop up. Did the seller explain why the airbag warning light is on in the instrument cluster? That in itself is an issue because it could be a potentially expensive repair if something is seriously wrong with the system. Interior of the car looks ok but can't tell if the driver's front seat has the customary ripping of the left rear bolster, that's a cosmetic issue not one needing to be fixed right away. It just looks like crap.

I/we don't recommend a G for a first car. It's bad with gas, insurance can be high especially for a young driver, will need extensive maintenance at 130K miles unless the previous owner has done some of it. All the underside bushings will need to be replaced as they are all prone to failure and with labor and parts it will run you over $1000. Maintenance can also get pricey very quickly unless you can, or have access to someone who can, do a lot of the repairs yourself or will help. More than likely it will need a clutch soon if that hasn't been replaced and again that'll be around $1000 with labor charges.

You're better off with an inexpensive car like a Honda, Toyota or Mazda just to name a few brands. They will take a lot of abuse while you are learning the ins and outs and a G has enough power to get you into some serious trouble if you're not very careful driving it while you learn especially in the rain.

HTH but remember it's just my .02.....

Edit: when you decide to get serious about any car make sure you take it a qualified mechanic to have a pre-purchase inspection done. They are worth their weight in gold.

 

 

 

Must be nice

 

+1 on Blue Dream's comment. I'd stay away from salvaged cars, unless you're getting a screamer of a deal. Even then, the deal very well may be too good to be true for a certain reason...

Best of luck!

 

I see all these posts without fallowups. I intend to put an actual answer to the question of fuel gauges not working after battery jump start. But until then I'd appreciate an actual answer to this question
Here is what happened, I Recently had no choice to let my g35 coupe 03 sit about 3 amd half month's which lead to the battery being D.O.A I jump started it with the help of my local dealer and took my car home. I had no gas when I let it sit for that time knowing of I had let gas sit in the tank that it could cause problem. I saw the gauge registered empty and the light was on. I did a quick stop at a gas station and put about 6 gallons in the tank.. I went to start the car again and nothing, the thing would not crank so I had another jump session which took a good 20 minutes to get enough of a charge, I attempted 6 times letting a charge build with the help of a jumper but no luck. I ended up having to buy another battery and finally got it started but... the gauge did not move at all from empty. I'm still in the process of figuring this thing out but I have done a ecu reset with the pedal and ignition, did a cluster test which all gauges worked when I was using the trip button to manually apply voltage and all checked out, I even had to do another key program because my key kept setting off my ecu light. I am still having the fuel gauge issue.

I would appreciate some replies about anything that could cause this besides the actual contacts in the tanks being corroded from sitting with no gas in the tank (if that's even possible in Az) I am going to take the sending units out of the tank to give the contacts a good cleaning but I'd like to know if there is any fuses or something I missed that could cause this. On a side note I noticed the steering is a little stiffer than I remember but I'm not sure if it's just me and me being used to another car I was driving or if there was something that tied fuel gauges reading and steering issues some how.
Recap: Problem, fuel gauge not reading anything other than empty (Not sure if it's from a jump start or not but the needle is on the correct side of the gauge but only reads empty with warning light on), stiff steering.
procedures preformed: ECU reset USING throttle pedal and ignition, Key and key fob program using ignition and lock buttons, Cluter maintenance test procedure using ignition and trip set button.

Any input would be nice if anyone else had these issues please kindly respond if you had any definitive results or if there is something we have all over looked.
thank you my friends

 

Unplug the harness on the fuel pump and read resistance across pins 2 and 5 of the pump. Resistance change from 4-80 ohms depending on whether the tank is full or empty, if the signal is correct then the issue is either the wiring going to the combination meter or the meter itself.

 

UPDATE & FIX!!!
What do you know, it works !! MUHAHAHAHA
After doing the cluster function test (and the cluster passed..) I knew that the problem was with the sending unit or grounding out between the PCM and fuel level meter.
And I was right!!! What do you know a varmit chewed thru my wiring (which I hope it died in the process&#128524
I rewired the wires to the connector and Wala!! Gauge reads again. Seriously, if you want to try to pull the sending unit/fuel pump (passenger side) and or fix the fuel level sensor (drivers side) then you will spend 10min pulling the rear seat out, turning the protective plates screws clamps (right to lose, left to tighten) to get access to the two units. Ps, problems can be simple.

 

Thread revival.
I've had an inaccurate fuel level reading for probably a year and a half now, and I've been turbocharged for the past year so my fuel level is something that I really need to be on top of now considering I don't even know for sure what my boosted MPG is; ~250/tank or so before I get paranoid and add fuel.
I've had a shop clean the fuel level sensors, etc. and they suggested a new gauge as well. Now I'm going to try doing what you did in your last post since it's pretty simple. Hopefully it resolves it.

 

I have the same problem fuel gauge always wrong so I read a lot about it and found out that this is a common G35X problem. So I decided not to spent money on it and just keep a log of the mileage and every 300 I fill it up. However, one time I started the car and had a check engine light and the code referred to the sending unit sensor or something like that. The next couple of days it was gone by itself. So I think this is common and keeping a log would be a good option for a car that is 12 years old. Hope this helps.