my rear right caliper seems to have only one washer on the caliper bolt. is this an error from the last repair or does it only have one washer. they also seem to be different sizes. the left side does have 2 washers on it but the right is where the emergency brake is and i am not sure. i am having issues with the wheels not rotating freely despite putting in new caliper. pls let me knw. thanks.

 

i have a 2004 manual transmission sedan

 

Assuming you mean the bolt that holds the caliper to the knuckle, then yes, each bolt is supposed to have 1 washer. It's also worth noting that you have e-brakes on both rear wheels, and you may want to look up the procedure to adjust them.

 

I just finishing doing rotors, pads, and ebrake shoes on my '04 6MT coupe - it has the Brembos but should be similar. Missing that washer isn't going to affect anything unless the bolt is digging into your rotors but that should be pretty obvious at first glance.


Even when everything's all installed properly the rear wheels won't rotate as freely as the fronts due to the differential. If you decide to start taking things apart to try and find the problem this forum will be here to help you with your issues as long as you do your part and show some research and thinking ahead of time.

 

i just got new bolts put on but the rotor is still getting very hot. its only the rear right tire. ive put in new brake pads, rotors and calipers on both rear sides, and did the bleeding and all. i wonder if the brake pads might be too tight and not moving freely or if something is wrong with where the rotor connects to the car. i did put grease on the areas of the brake pads and shims that need it. im not sure how tight its suppose to be moving around but i figure since the other side is fine that is not the problem

 

I've had issues with rear caliper seizing, but if you replaced the calipers they should be fine. Ebrake might not be fully retracting when you release the handle?

 

the ebrakes have not worked for 5 years and it looks like their is no material on it but i have not looked into that. i took the calipers and rotors brakes apart and put it back together. it spins free when i have it jacked but once i put it down and push down on the brakes it gets stuck again with the two brakes grabbing. i have checked online and it seems like it might be the brake hose line thats ruusted and not releasing fluid back to the master cyclinder. i will probably get one tomorrow and see if that is the problem

 

You need to inspect the sliding pins on your brakes. They allow movement of the caliper to keep the optimum pressure on the rotor in all driving conditions. Many cases of those pins drying out, they're greased, and having the caliper "stick" to the rotor and create the issues you listed above can be found here on the forum. Pull them out, clean the crap out of them, re-grease them and re-install. Simple process and there's a good chance it will fix your issues. I'd do that before you go buy new brake lines but it is nice to have new lines as well. Hmmm, decisions, decisions hehe.

When you figure out what the problem turns out to be please update this thread with the specific issue and the solution to fix it to help others with their issues. GL

 

Another thing it could be is the fitment between the pads and the sides of the calipers (the metal guides that are screwed in). When you compress the pistons down all the way the pads should be able to slide all the way down into the caliper where they would be during operation without any binding. If there is binding while disassembled it will bind during use. Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean all caliper to pad contact surfaces. If its still binding you can use a file/sandpaper and file down the sides of the brake pads until they fit well (proper fix would be buying new brake hardware but this works fine)



I can't imagine your problem lies with punctured lines, then you'd have issues with braking since all the fluid would escape the line when you pressurize the system.