I got my 2005 G35.

It has 188,000 but still runs pretty good. I have codes for cam position sensor (easy fix), transmission speed sensor (Turbine Revolution sensor (Hopefuly fixing this will fix the sticky AT) (this one I believe is a hard sensor to replace)), and VDC and Slip.

Early goals are to fix the minor issue, long term goals are about 500 BHP!

Any pointers or suggestions are greatly appreciated. I have loved this car since early 2000s but never got one until now. I figured the forum was a good place to ask the experts who know the nitty gritty about these cars.

 

Make sure to use OEM Nissan cam sensors or you will be doing the job twice. Buy them from a dealer like Boch Nissan or similar so you don't get knock offs. If the car hasn't had the wideband O2's replaced yet they will help a bunch also. Transmission is probably worn out at that mileage, I would rebuild it or get a low mile used one. The RWD 5AT's are pretty cheap I could have picked one up with 77k miles from the Upull yard for $130 but I have AWD G's

Later down the road these cars are great for boost, Good luck with the build!

 

Thanks! Great Intel!

 

Hitachi is the OEM supplier of the cam and crank sensors. You can buy the exact same OEM part from Rockauto for about $50 each.

Was impressed with our research skills related to this earlier discussion on the topic. https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...-sensor-2.html

 

The Hitachi sensors are still the old style sensor. If you get new ones from a dealership they will have the metal jacket (new revision sensors). There is a reason they changed to the new style sensor, the regular black plastic ones don't last very long. The new revision sensor is just like the revolution sensors in the automatic transmissions dating back to the late 90's, I still haven't had a bad revolution sensor in all the transmissions I have worked with. I'm hoping the new cam sensors will be the same way. Also if you look at the Titan, Maxima, etc... they have changed to them also. I spent the extra $$$ (around $95 each) to get the good ones since my car is boosted and I don't want a sensor failing stranding me or blowing stuff up.

 

Yes, these sensors seem to fail when oil gets behind the jacket and more likely to happen to the plastic shielded ones. The metal jacket sensors are the new ones.

For the price point I was happy to pick the old style OEM units. The one that went bad on me lasted 15 years and 65k miles.

 

Plastic ones are good up to about 100k, I imagine the metal ones will be good up to about 200k and if you change out the o-ring every 75k or so they will probably never fail.