Installing coilovers
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White g35 sedan
Installing coilovers
Need some info on this i've never put on coilovers before. I'm thinking about doing coilovers for my 06 g35 sedan with Tein Street Basis Z. Are these any good?
Also what other things do i need with it. New Shock Struts? Adjustable Control Arms? I'm not looking to do cambers on it.
Also what other things do i need with it. New Shock Struts? Adjustable Control Arms? I'm not looking to do cambers on it.
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Joined: May 2017
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From: Washington State
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
If you lower the car at all you should put a camber kit on it, front will need adjustable FUCA, rear will need adjustable camber rods and toe bolts.
Z1 Motorsports sells a pretty decent kit for a reasonable price. You will need an alignment when it's all installed, don't go to Nissan for this, call around and find out who does custom alignments for lowered sports cars.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...e-p-12166.html
The "traction arms" replace the radius rod, set them at the OEM length (hold them up to the existing ones, put the bolts back into both eyes and use that to make the adjustable on the same length.
The installation is very straight forward, FUCA you will need to loosen the bolts on the strut to lower it a tad to get the bolts to go between coils on the front springs, no big deal but I usually set the service jack back under the lower ball joint just to help lower things and keep it the multilink suspension from twisting wierd.
Rear you will need to take a pair of channel lock pliers (or other pliers, technically a wrench might even work...) and BEND the rolled lip of the sheet metal to get the bolt out. Not a big deal, you can leave it bent out slightly or bend it back when you're done. If you scar down to metal just touch it up with some paint or chassis undercoat. You'll see what I mean when you try to take the bolt out, simple stuff.
Do NOT use the loctite they provide however, I think they give you Loctite 272 I think which is the "permanent" loctite and to loosen it in the future you need to use a torch to heat it up and turn it back into liquid. Instead use Loctite 242 or 243 (same thing, one is technically mil-spec, same thing as foods that get blessed by a rabbi are technically Kosher).
Don't apply the loctite until AFTER you have the alignment done or they will probably kill you. After alignment take it back to the shop, loosen each bolt 1 at a time, spin it back a ways, apply loctite to the threads, spin it back and tighten again. Those big nuts are easier to loosen if you use a crescent wrench and a small sledge hammer, don't bother torquing them, just get them very snug, the loctite does the rest.
Torque for all the other fasteners is found in the FSM, FSU - Front Suspension, RSU - Rear Suspension.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
Z1 Motorsports sells a pretty decent kit for a reasonable price. You will need an alignment when it's all installed, don't go to Nissan for this, call around and find out who does custom alignments for lowered sports cars.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...e-p-12166.html
The "traction arms" replace the radius rod, set them at the OEM length (hold them up to the existing ones, put the bolts back into both eyes and use that to make the adjustable on the same length.
The installation is very straight forward, FUCA you will need to loosen the bolts on the strut to lower it a tad to get the bolts to go between coils on the front springs, no big deal but I usually set the service jack back under the lower ball joint just to help lower things and keep it the multilink suspension from twisting wierd.
Rear you will need to take a pair of channel lock pliers (or other pliers, technically a wrench might even work...) and BEND the rolled lip of the sheet metal to get the bolt out. Not a big deal, you can leave it bent out slightly or bend it back when you're done. If you scar down to metal just touch it up with some paint or chassis undercoat. You'll see what I mean when you try to take the bolt out, simple stuff.
Do NOT use the loctite they provide however, I think they give you Loctite 272 I think which is the "permanent" loctite and to loosen it in the future you need to use a torch to heat it up and turn it back into liquid. Instead use Loctite 242 or 243 (same thing, one is technically mil-spec, same thing as foods that get blessed by a rabbi are technically Kosher).
Don't apply the loctite until AFTER you have the alignment done or they will probably kill you. After alignment take it back to the shop, loosen each bolt 1 at a time, spin it back a ways, apply loctite to the threads, spin it back and tighten again. Those big nuts are easier to loosen if you use a crescent wrench and a small sledge hammer, don't bother torquing them, just get them very snug, the loctite does the rest.
Torque for all the other fasteners is found in the FSM, FSU - Front Suspension, RSU - Rear Suspension.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
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Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 3,087
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From: LA, Cali
I have the Tein street basis coilovers on my car. If gouve never installed one, I would recommend getting someone who has done it to help u with it. I got mine mostly for the drop. You WILL need adjustable camber arms and toe bolts to go along with it or else your tires will take a śhit very quickly. U will probably have to readjust the ride height after a thousand or so miles of driving so the coils would have settled. Alignment is the final step!
The Tein street basis coilovers are slightly more stiff than your original suspension. They dont have any dampening adjustability so expect to feel a little sideways slipping when taking fast turns on cracked or bumpy roads. Other than that, theyre fine!
The Tein street basis coilovers are slightly more stiff than your original suspension. They dont have any dampening adjustability so expect to feel a little sideways slipping when taking fast turns on cracked or bumpy roads. Other than that, theyre fine!
Imo, wouldn't recommend them. I was looking into this coil over kit before I ordered all the KYB replacements for my car.
Just get KYB from Rockauto with new strut mounts and new strut bellows. It's half the price of the Basis Z, and it's a better shock. The Basis Z doesn't have adjustable compression or rebound so you have worse damping than stock!
It does look better, but OE is better.
Just get KYB from Rockauto with new strut mounts and new strut bellows. It's half the price of the Basis Z, and it's a better shock. The Basis Z doesn't have adjustable compression or rebound so you have worse damping than stock!
It does look better, but OE is better.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
I would second this advice ^ but if you want a drop look into aftermarket springs as well. Lots of good options out there, even for the sedans, and they're not that expensive.
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White g35 sedan
If you lower the car at all you should put a camber kit on it, front will need adjustable FUCA, rear will need adjustable camber rods and toe bolts.
Z1 Motorsports sells a pretty decent kit for a reasonable price. You will need an alignment when it's all installed, don't go to Nissan for this, call around and find out who does custom alignments for lowered sports cars.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...e-p-12166.html
The "traction arms" replace the radius rod, set them at the OEM length (hold them up to the existing ones, put the bolts back into both eyes and use that to make the adjustable on the same length.
The installation is very straight forward, FUCA you will need to loosen the bolts on the strut to lower it a tad to get the bolts to go between coils on the front springs, no big deal but I usually set the service jack back under the lower ball joint just to help lower things and keep it the multilink suspension from twisting wierd.
Rear you will need to take a pair of channel lock pliers (or other pliers, technically a wrench might even work...) and BEND the rolled lip of the sheet metal to get the bolt out. Not a big deal, you can leave it bent out slightly or bend it back when you're done. If you scar down to metal just touch it up with some paint or chassis undercoat. You'll see what I mean when you try to take the bolt out, simple stuff.
Do NOT use the loctite they provide however, I think they give you Loctite 272 I think which is the "permanent" loctite and to loosen it in the future you need to use a torch to heat it up and turn it back into liquid. Instead use Loctite 242 or 243 (same thing, one is technically mil-spec, same thing as foods that get blessed by a rabbi are technically Kosher).
Don't apply the loctite until AFTER you have the alignment done or they will probably kill you. After alignment take it back to the shop, loosen each bolt 1 at a time, spin it back a ways, apply loctite to the threads, spin it back and tighten again. Those big nuts are easier to loosen if you use a crescent wrench and a small sledge hammer, don't bother torquing them, just get them very snug, the loctite does the rest.
Torque for all the other fasteners is found in the FSM, FSU - Front Suspension, RSU - Rear Suspension.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
Z1 Motorsports sells a pretty decent kit for a reasonable price. You will need an alignment when it's all installed, don't go to Nissan for this, call around and find out who does custom alignments for lowered sports cars.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...e-p-12166.html
The "traction arms" replace the radius rod, set them at the OEM length (hold them up to the existing ones, put the bolts back into both eyes and use that to make the adjustable on the same length.
The installation is very straight forward, FUCA you will need to loosen the bolts on the strut to lower it a tad to get the bolts to go between coils on the front springs, no big deal but I usually set the service jack back under the lower ball joint just to help lower things and keep it the multilink suspension from twisting wierd.
Rear you will need to take a pair of channel lock pliers (or other pliers, technically a wrench might even work...) and BEND the rolled lip of the sheet metal to get the bolt out. Not a big deal, you can leave it bent out slightly or bend it back when you're done. If you scar down to metal just touch it up with some paint or chassis undercoat. You'll see what I mean when you try to take the bolt out, simple stuff.
Do NOT use the loctite they provide however, I think they give you Loctite 272 I think which is the "permanent" loctite and to loosen it in the future you need to use a torch to heat it up and turn it back into liquid. Instead use Loctite 242 or 243 (same thing, one is technically mil-spec, same thing as foods that get blessed by a rabbi are technically Kosher).
Don't apply the loctite until AFTER you have the alignment done or they will probably kill you. After alignment take it back to the shop, loosen each bolt 1 at a time, spin it back a ways, apply loctite to the threads, spin it back and tighten again. Those big nuts are easier to loosen if you use a crescent wrench and a small sledge hammer, don't bother torquing them, just get them very snug, the loctite does the rest.
Torque for all the other fasteners is found in the FSM, FSU - Front Suspension, RSU - Rear Suspension.
https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html
Do i need camber arms for the rear or am i just fine with toe bolts?
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White g35 sedan
Was looking into Tein S-tech and Eibach Pro kit. Which one would you recommend and would i need camber kits with them as well?
Originally Posted by Matt Hilarry
Was looking into Tein S-tech and Eibach Pro kit. Which one would you recommend and would i need camber kits with them as well?
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
Yes u will need to adjust your camber on all 4 wheels.
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