I have a 2006 G35 that I am going to be pulling the instrument cluster due to a P0462 code and gas gauge that only goes from full to 3/4. I'm going to be re-soldering the joints shown in another thread on here to hopefully fix the issue.

However, another issue that I have is that the speedometer needle is completely erratic/shaky. It sometimes will have the correct speed, but bounces all over the place, and drops down to zero. This is effected by road vibrations and tapping on the instrument cluster covering while driving.

I did a cluster self check, and while the gauge goes up to the 30mph mark when pressing the trip reset button, it can be shaky when doing so even with no road/engine vibration with the car.

I suspect that it maybe the step motor, or a bad solder joint on the step motor? I have not been able to find another thread with this issue, and hoping someone else may have had a similar issue and see what their repair was. I am also am having trouble finding the exact step motor replacement part/part number. Figured I would order the step motor in advance, in case it needed replacement while I have everything disassembled.

Thanks in advance

 

If it's bouncing higher than the intended speed then it's probably not a stepper motor. Since the instrument cluster has other notorious failure points with RESISTORS on the PCB I'm guessing your issue with the speedo is more resistor problems.

 

Wasn't jumping above the speed, just dropping/shaking below or completely dropping to zero.

Ended up pulling the cluster today and getting it fixed.

Followed this thread to re-solder the resistors on the board that Riche described in post #72

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...etailed-7.html

Also noticed a couple of the solder joints on the 6 leads connecting the speedometer step meter looked a bit hazy (cold joint possibly), so touched those up to.

Everything works great now. No check engine light, not P0462 code, and Speedometer is back to normal.

Getting the cluster assembly out of the car was easy. It was quite a PITA taking apart the cluster to get to the board. Once the board was out, the solder joints are quite tiny, but not impossible. When re-soldering you get the opportunity to apply just a bit more solder then the factory did and beef up the joints which is nice. Pretty sure this problem won't arise again.

 

I'm so glad to find someone that could resolve this issue, i will try it and hope it works. 🙏

 

I hope it works for you too. Just as a follow up, the issue has not came up since.

 

I just completed the job, speedometer seems to be working right and not jumpy anymore. I filled my tank with gas so I could recalibrate the needle to the full line but i still have a check engine light. I will try to clear the code when i get home, hopefully it's gone for good after i clear it. Did your check engine light automatically go off or did you have to clear it?

 

Its been a while, so I don't remember. I have the ability to clear codes on my scanner, so I probably just did it. but I believe just driving around for 50-100 miles and the computer will reset and it will turn off on its own? Please let us know what you did and if the light stays off. I'm sure this will help the next person down the road.

 

I work at a body shop so i was doing the repairs on my cluster but left my scanner at home. When i got home i cleared the code. I am going to work now, i will keep you up dated when i drive about 100 miles or if the light comes back on. (Hopefully not)

 

Well 200 miles later and no check engine light. The speedometer is bouncing at times and doesn't show my speed at times. My gas gauge finally dropped below the half mark so I'll see what happens when it gets to empty. I'm going to get emissions done tomorrow so i can renew my tag.