I have recently developed a clunking on my front passenger side of my 06 G35x with 103k. The noise has got worse over the last week and now sounds very similar to when my driver side compression rod went last year. I'm guessing it's either that or the forward control arm so I'm planning on replacing both arms and the ball joint in a few weeks.

After searching through threads, there are some horror stories about the metal in the compression rod bushing sticking to the stud of the frame bolt. This is my main concern as I would have some trouble in that situation. Is this more common for AWD models or is there any effective way in preventing this from happening? There are not any DIYs or youtube videos for the G35x control arm replacements so I'm not entirely sure. My other question is whether I will have to remove the axle and upper control arm for the comp rod.

The lower forward arm seems more straight forward, I am planning on renting a ball service kit to deal with that issue. Other than that, I'm thinking I can handle this suspension repair but any advice or help beforehand would be greatly appreciated. I don't have much mechanical experience but some videos have given me confidence unless something is horrible rusted. The dealer had quoted me close to $900 for the comp rod replacement and the Mevotech rod is $90 online and I have everything except the ball joint kit. I am just a bit worried about the metal inside the bushing forming to the stud and unsure about whether the axle and upper arm will need removal. I tried looking through the FSM but couldn't find steps for this. Thank you for the help.

 

After reading the horror stories about the comp rod seizing to the stud I was scared to even try to remove mine. But while I was trying to diagnose a clunk, I took mine off no problem. I live in the northeast and everything is rusty on my 06X. So you never know until you try. Turns out my problem was just the lower ball joint. I took the whole knuckle out to do the ball joint in a shop press. It's an odd shape and I think it would be difficult to do on the car.

 

Nothing wrong with pre-treating it with a rust breaker like PB blaster and adding heat when it’s time to let go. Twist to break free rust don’t try and torque it off.