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As it says my dash says 286k miles but my engine is very very very clean here is some pics.
is there anyway to tell if someone swapped a new engine in it because like I said even the timing cover has no oil burns the heads are extremely clean. Timing chain guides looks non worn. The oil pump looks shiny. Any help from you high mile guys would be break I'm tempted to compress check this engine. What's a good psi to be at for a pressure test? Because at this point I might just boost it instead of changing the engine to a ultra low one.
Hard to tell. My old engine had 350k KM when I sold it (not miles, but still relatively high) and was still clean inside. Good compression as well. Even the plenum was spotless inside.
A lot of it comes down to how well the engine was taken care of, not just age. Do a compression test, and if everything comes back good, then boost it. If you were planning on buying a new motor anyways, then who cares.
Can you do me a favour and take a picture of the other head (bank 1) right underneath the two camshafts?
When I replaced my valve covers two years ago there was a small section of the head that looks like it was punched out and I'm wondering if this is in every VQ35DE.
Can you do me a favour and take a picture of the other head (bank 1) right underneath the two camshafts?
When I replaced my valve covers two years ago there was a small section of the head that looks like it was punched out and I'm wondering if this is in every VQ35DE.
Everything's all buttoned up other than my timing cover. I don't remember there being any holes in there though.
If you're swapping the motor yourself then I'd say boost it. You will have increased bearing wear but as long as you keep up on oil changes it's fine.
If you were paying shop rates to swap the engine I would suggest doing the low mile swap before boosting.
The only thing you really GAIN with a low mile engine is longer life expectancy. Do a compression test to make sure it's pretty even across all cylinders. If it was on the low end of factory spec compression (142psi is the minimum spec) then I'd probably swap the engine. If you were 160-180psi then go for it. Just use enough crankcase ventilation to account for extra blowby on a worn engine. Sometimes that just means a bigger breather on your catch can, sometimes you actually need to drill/tap bigger -AN lines onto the valve covers. All depends on what kind of boost levels you're considering, something for stock rods you're fine with the factory PCV hose size and a small breather.
If you're swapping the motor yourself then I'd say boost it. You will have increased bearing wear but as long as you keep up on oil changes it's fine.
If you were paying shop rates to swap the engine I would suggest doing the low mile swap before boosting.
The only thing you really GAIN with a low mile engine is longer life expectancy. Do a compression test to make sure it's pretty even across all cylinders. If it was on the low end of factory spec compression (142psi is the minimum spec) then I'd probably swap the engine. If you were 160-180psi then go for it. Just use enough crankcase ventilation to account for extra blowby on a worn engine. Sometimes that just means a bigger breather on your catch can, sometimes you actually need to drill/tap bigger -AN lines onto the valve covers. All depends on what kind of boost levels you're considering, something for stock rods you're fine with the factory PCV hose size and a small breather.
Amazing advice! Yeah I was thinking about that. Was looking into a morso catch can for both PCV valves. I'm at the stage in my engine refresh/ power adders where I'm debating on boosting this thing and see how it goes. Did a wire harness tuck and a few other pritty things and at this point waiting on things like my LSD/DIFF overhaul and my powder coated stuff to get done so I can button her up for another retune already upsized my injectors to 650cc for stock block.
Btw what's the easiest way to redo the front timing cover crank seal. That bitch was a PTA to pull out. And it's so stiff I'm scared to try pressing a new one back in without a shop press.