I did a Dyson oil analysis at Blackstone Labs and it shows that I have fuel dilution (gasoline in my oil). Blackstone said that I should have the dealer check it out. I make an appointment today with the dealer and when I get there they said, "Sorry, we're not going to do anything about it." They are not even going to look at it! WTF!!!! They said that as long as there's no warning lights going off like a "Check Engine" light or something, then there's nothing wrong with the car! Again, WTF!!! So, instead of fixing a problem in it's early stages when it is easy AND cheaper to fix, they said bring it back when there is a problem. The dealer even said, "hey, that's what a warranty is for". So their philosophy is wait till it breaks first! So, why the hell even do any service maintance then? Why don't we just wait till the brakes squeal before even checking them or why don't we wait till the engine is smoking before changing the oil??? Unbelievable!

 

that is bul ****... they should look at it and figure out why you are getting fuel in your oil. it has to be going by the rings. i say wait till the next oil change and get it analysed again to see if it got there during break in. good luck.

 

To be honest that doesn't surprise me. Your engine will probably run fine for the rest of it's life even with something like this happening. They are, after all, warranting the engine's function, not it's performance. When it stops working or the problem manifests itself as a recognizable problem that needs fixing, they'll deal with it I'm sure.

I know it sucks to know there's something wrong that they're doing nothing about but I'm just saying I can understand their point of view.

Maybe a failed emmissions test would sway them to helping you out? Do you have any other clues about this problem, like a smoking exhaust or excessive burning of oil?

 

Try another dealer bro. That's B.S.
C.

 

There are no symptoms now, why even wait for there to be symptoms? The dealer even said, "Oil analysis aren't that accurate or useful anyway." LOL! And his word that there's nothing wrong and everything is fine is? LOL! Blackstone labs says that it could be something as simple as a foul spark plug, block air flow, or as seriously as a failed ignition coil. I already check the air flow and air filter and it looks good. Probably will check the spark plugs this weekend. What pisses me off most is that they won't even check. How hard is to check? Unlike you and I, they have a whole autoshop there with all the tools and mechanics, etc....
I guess I will bring my car to an outside mechanic and see if he finds anything. If he finds something, I sure as hell will be back to the dealer because I'm not paying for repairs.
Where's the service? And for a $40K car too? I understand that they get lots of customers complaining about every little thing and it's not feasable for them to check everything. BUT I have proof in writing (oil analysis) that there is something wrong and still they do nothing.

 

Can you attach a copy of the report? I would like to see how the other #'s look, how many miles on the car, what the oil change interval was etc. I hate to side with the dealer, but it is unlikely that there is anything wrong with your engine unless it was abused. I would resubmit another analysis after 3K miles on the current oil. If it shows fuel again, then you would have some pretty strong evidence.

BTW, it is important to take your sample with the engine just driven (at least 20 minutes) and hot. That way few volatiles are in it to skew your results. Also, if you always drive relatively short distances and never really get the engine up to operating temp, fuel vapors and moisture can condense and accumulate in the sump and give a false alarm too.

 

Well how many miles did you have on the sample and total? Scan it for us please. Because you have a 2005, the engine is still breaking in and you will have some fuel in the oil as well. It happens.

 

How do I attach a copy? All the other numbers are good. I was using the M1 10W-30 EP synthetic oil with only 5,614 miles on it. M1 EP is the new oil that says "guaranteed for 15,000 miles, etc.... My car has 12,000+ miles on it now and I do a lot of highway driving as you can see from my mileage. I also followed their directions in taking the sample (but drove around for about 6 miles instead of the reccommend 10 miles but Blackstone said that is not a problem). My TBN is 6.1 which is good but my flashpoint is only 350 when it should be closer to 400 and fuel % is 1.3 which is not really high but because of the low flashpoint it is significant according to Blackstone. The only other "abnormal" number is copper which is high at 19. Everything else is normal.

 

Scan it, email me it to me and I can put it online for you. russz@sbcglobal.net

 

Just because the new M1 EP is supposed to be guaranteed for 15K miles, doesn't mean it WILL perform and protect consistently throughout the interval. As far as I'm concerned, the VQ is tough on oils, especially during the first 30-40K miles. Your driving habits will also affect your oil analysis results... short trips do not allow the oil to get hot enough to burn off condensates and the like.

Post your results over at bobistheoilguy in their Oil Analysis Forum and let the oilhead members over there give you some feedback. It's likely that they will have far more insight than the dealer, and even the membership here. Not putting down the folks here, but those guys over at BITOG live, breathe, eat and sleep oil, 24/7... they knowquite a bit more than most about oil.

 

I just switched to the 5W/30 EP after analyzing the regular Mobil1 attached here. Blackstone said I could probably go 9000 miles on the regular stuff. I'm going to re-analyze at the same 7800 mile interval for the EP and see what the difference is, if any. If it looks good, then I will feel safer about going the whole 15000.

 

"Fuel dilution"? What in the hell is that? FYI, fuel and oil do get mixed in the combustion cycle.

I really can't fault the dealer for not looking at the car. Does the car stutter, stumble, hestitate, show a CEL, really crappy MPGs, or are you purely going off of what this analysis is telling you? If a coil pack, injector, or spark plug was going bad, you'd know it. I've driven VQs with these problems. If you're really concerned about this, check the plugs yourself. That will tell you if anything is going wrong with the ignition or an injector. It will take you all of 30 minutes to do.

IMO, oil analysis is a waste, especially on these motors. The VQ is way overengineered and will easily go 250-300K miles as long as you do regular maintenance. These motors don't eat bearings or loose compression unless you beat living crap out of them. The leak link of the VQ35 is the rods and no oil analysis will tell you if ones failing. I deal with data validation all day long and if you guys only knew just how insignificant these analyte numbers were, you wouldn't get so worried. A lot of these analytes are naturally occuring and sometimes are higher levels in the soil in your back yard than in your dirty motor oil

 

I email G35_TX my oil analysis but he hasn't put it up yet. Anyway, the point really is not so much if there is fuel dilution or not. The point more is the dealer won't even look at it to see IF there is a problem. What so hard about checking it out? DaveB, you said it takes me 30 minutes to check my plugs, well, how long does it take the dealer with all the right tools and mechanics there? Like I said, where's the freaking Service there? I guess I will have to check it myself. Thanks for nothing Infiniti dealer!

 

I know what your problem is. According to Blackstone you have a "3.0L V-6".

 

You've got to understand that dealers are in a business. They want to make money just like everyone else. Since your car is exhibiting no problems, the dealer is going to loose money. Dealer shops inspect cars when there's a problem because:

1) They get reimbursed by Nissan for warranty work and make money
2) They make money from out of warranty work and maintenance.

Looking over your car simply because a lab report indicates there might be an issue is not profitable for them. It would take the equalvalent of about 2 hours shop time (~$170) for them to pull and inspect your plugs, test your coil packs, do a fuel pressue test, and test injector voltage. If there are no CELs or if car is running fine, the chances are high that they'll find nothing wrong and they'll be out of $170. I'm just trying to help you understand where they're coming from. If you're still that concerned, then:

1) Yank the plugs and inspect them. They should all look the same.
2) With the engine running, take a long screw driver and place the blade on top of the injector housing and put your ear up to the handle. Listen to all the injectors. They should all sound the same.
3) With a shop manual and a $12 voltmeter, you can test the coil packs and back probe the injectors.

I'm curious about this oil analysis and how you went about collecting a sample. Did you drive the car for a long time before draining the oil or did you by chance run a cold engine at idle for 30 second to a couple minutes to warm the oil and then drain it? The latter will result in a lot of fuel in the oil because these motors run very rich at cold start. Taking an oil sample from a cold engine could lead to wildy skewed results.