August incentives?
short answer: for the G I put 1% profit, on others 1.5%. Really I try to make it around $300 to $400 for profit.
Long answer: I'm not afraid to travel a little bit to get the deal I want. Most of it is because I am a cheap bastard. The other part is my stubborn arrogance in wanting to make the deal as I say. After determining their true cost (last post) and my offer price, I am unwilling to budge at all.
I then write up a nice letter saying "I am willing and able to buy immediately XXXXX for $YYYY. I came to this price like this... <insert figures>. I am willing to travel a little to save a lot so I have sent this same offer to other dealers in the region. If you are willing and able to accept this offer please call me and we will push the paper work through. If you cannot or do not want to no hard feelings on this end."
It is a one page letter written as professional and as nice as I can still sending the message "take it or leave it". I'll usually get a call or two from a sales manager saying my numbers are off or that they can't quite do that but can come close. I reply with, thank you, I'll wait for the others to get back to me and then let you know. Inevitably a sales manager calls (or pawns it off on somebody) who says "you have a deal". On the G35 the manager wanted to tack on $250 in "fees" and was willing to walk away cause his hands were tied. I said, "too bad. we were close. thanks for your efforts". He acted stunned that I'd walk away from the deal over that and quickly recinded his ultimatum and met my price.
It works nice because they can't use all their trickery. If nobody locally budges I extend my search. I lived in Des Moines at the time and bought a (new) window sticker $48,000+ Mistubishi VR-4 from a dealer in Denver for $35,750. I sold the VR-4 a year later for $35,000. Fun times for just $750. ha ha
The last three cars purchased this way have been even easier due to being able to see dealers' inventory on the internet. I find which dealers have the exact car on their lot and fax away. If a dealer doesn't have it on their lot they can't sell it for the offer price. Cuts a lot of BS calls down.
Anyhoo... hope this helps. Oh, I have determine the invoice and other figures through edmunds. For the last two purchases I question whether these numbers are real anymore as the dealers were more then happy/willing to make the deal.
Nate
Long answer: I'm not afraid to travel a little bit to get the deal I want. Most of it is because I am a cheap bastard. The other part is my stubborn arrogance in wanting to make the deal as I say. After determining their true cost (last post) and my offer price, I am unwilling to budge at all.
I then write up a nice letter saying "I am willing and able to buy immediately XXXXX for $YYYY. I came to this price like this... <insert figures>. I am willing to travel a little to save a lot so I have sent this same offer to other dealers in the region. If you are willing and able to accept this offer please call me and we will push the paper work through. If you cannot or do not want to no hard feelings on this end."
It is a one page letter written as professional and as nice as I can still sending the message "take it or leave it". I'll usually get a call or two from a sales manager saying my numbers are off or that they can't quite do that but can come close. I reply with, thank you, I'll wait for the others to get back to me and then let you know. Inevitably a sales manager calls (or pawns it off on somebody) who says "you have a deal". On the G35 the manager wanted to tack on $250 in "fees" and was willing to walk away cause his hands were tied. I said, "too bad. we were close. thanks for your efforts". He acted stunned that I'd walk away from the deal over that and quickly recinded his ultimatum and met my price.
It works nice because they can't use all their trickery. If nobody locally budges I extend my search. I lived in Des Moines at the time and bought a (new) window sticker $48,000+ Mistubishi VR-4 from a dealer in Denver for $35,750. I sold the VR-4 a year later for $35,000. Fun times for just $750. ha ha
The last three cars purchased this way have been even easier due to being able to see dealers' inventory on the internet. I find which dealers have the exact car on their lot and fax away. If a dealer doesn't have it on their lot they can't sell it for the offer price. Cuts a lot of BS calls down.
Anyhoo... hope this helps. Oh, I have determine the invoice and other figures through edmunds. For the last two purchases I question whether these numbers are real anymore as the dealers were more then happy/willing to make the deal.
Nate
Vehicle sticker was $37,750 ( package C ) and paid $500 over invoice, with a 3 year lease at 2.99 % for 36 months than a payout of $21,000 at end of lease, I'm sure of the interest rate ( need to close before August 1 to receive rate, but i did trade in a vehicle with the difference of $8,000 put down for new vehicle., Got a great low payment for 3 years and not a bad payout at end of lease, we will be purchasing the vehicle at end of lease, sure we will be paying alittle more than if we purchased, the front end or the back end the dealership get you.
Last edited by mailmanmike; Aug 3, 2005 at 08:09 PM.
May I suggest we refer to this thread..
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...6&page=1&pp=15
Apparently there needs to be some clarifications.
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...6&page=1&pp=15
Apparently there needs to be some clarifications.
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