Ok I know to get real HP you have to go FI. I don’t have the cash to go that route right know. I currently have a motordyne ˝” ISO spacer, Z-Tube, popcharger, high flow cats (Kinetix), 350Z tube, 350Z midpipe and stillen rear section. With just the Z-Tube and a KN fiter my car pulled 231 HP and 224 TQ if I remeber correctly, about a year ago (have printout Dynojet). I am changing the cats to resonated test pipes next week. I have the cash now to do headers + install, technosqare ECU upgrade, and duel exhaust. In a couple of months, I can do a clutch and flywheel, or just flywheel. This is about it right? I mean I could do a rear gear, and cams, but why? That’s it right? What will this really do for me? I know a little, but I will still only run a 13.9+ at best with all of it, Right? Should I just save and go 10-12K+ in a couple of years for FI. By the way I have a 04, 6MT (more in my sig).

 

you should try to get light pullies and a camshaft or something. that should add some power.

 

test pipe + headers with good tuning should help you big time

 

Why do you think running cams is pointless? Theres a lot of power than can be made with cams in N/A. Plus its not one of those mods that you have to ditch if you go FI (i.e. intake, headers, (maybe) FD gears, etc.). A lot of FI guys run cams.

 

How about a grounding kit?

 

how heavy are your wheels?

 

I am not saying that cams are pointless. I just think that if you spend 1K-1.5K for cams and have them installed for god knows how much what, power do you really get? Dollar for dollar are they really worth it?

My wheels are heavy. A few pound each over my stock 17". I know that will have a big factor in lose power, but you still must look good.

 

Cams will only shift your powerband upwards and will most likely trade mid range power for high rpm power. Most likely this will negatively effect your 1/4 mile ET and make the car slower from 0-70mph, but marginally faster from 70-120mph. In the end, the car will probably run a slower overall ET at around the same MPH.

I have yet to see real proof that test pipes or aftermarket cats making the numbers as advertized.

A lighter flywheel will reduce rotating mass and make the car rev quicker and make high rpm downshifts more effective. It may also improve road course lap times, but on the strip, the reduced moment of inertia of the flywheel will make the car far easier to bogging off the line and chances are the car will be no quicker in the 1/4 mile. Also, most light flywheels get rid of the dual mass setup which means you'll get a lot more noise at low rpms.

If you want to truely go quicker in the 1/4 mile, the answer is very simple: TIRES. A set of 16" MT ET Street drag radials (look more like slicks, $140 ea) mounted on a set of 300ZX 16X8 rims (15lbs each, $150 for 2) is a sure way to significantly lower ETs. Say you're running 14.0@100mph with the typical 2.1 60 foot. The ET Streets will easily drop you into the upper 1.8s which means you'll be running a solid .4 seconds quicker or 13.5-13.6s@100-101mph. Most G owners shun drag tires because they feel it's cheating, but the truth of the matter is most people are doing this stuff for bragging rights. When you're at the track, take notice of how many cars are running drag type tires. Drag tires improve traction dramatically and are far more consistent. If I could launch my 5AT at higher rpms, I'd definitely have DRs.

 

DaveB, the best mod for drag racing is definately tires. On cars that have lots of power and spin a lot on launch. I have an X, so no worries with that. But my question is how bad do the 6MT guys spin? I don't envision our power output to crazy spin the tires on a well prepped track, but I may be wrong.

And if it's ET that you're after, don't forget the skinnies up front I used front tires on my Camaro that weighed about 10 lbs, with tire!!

 

From what I've read, the 6MT guys seem to launch around 1500-3000rpms and they get a bit of spin. Anything more than 3000rpms and they spin pretty badly. Granted most of them aren't experts or have much practice, but I'd think 4000rpms is about the limit and even then you'd have to slip the clutch a lot and modulate the throttle a bit on street tires. I've driven a couple 6MT sedans and it seems pretty easy to spin the tires with a quick clutch slip at 2500rpms.

I'd think a 5000-5500rpm very quick clutch slip launch should net low low 1.9s to mid 1.8s on ET Streets. If I had a 6MT sedan, I'd have ET streets ........and skinnies up front. You're like me, take everything you can get and add the most effective mods first

 

I ran Nitto DR's on the street with the Camaro, and like ET Streets, they give you a huge advantage, especially when the roads are warm. Not only that, but the Nittos actually did well in the rain (much to my surprise).

If there's spin at the track, then I couldn't agree with you more about tires being one of the most important mods.

One thing to remember for guys going this route. Energy has to go somewhere. High rpm, sticky launches transfers energy to other parts of the car. The most vulnerable being the rear end (other than the clutch). Repetitive lower ET's will come at a price.....When I was racing I shredded a rear end and snapped an axle all at once on launch. A very expensive 2 seconds!

 

Exactly and I should have stated his earlier. The torque transfer has to go somewhere and it will tax the weakest part of the drivetrain. Unlike the F-bodies POS rear end that can even grenade with even just an aggressive launch with a 6MT and street tires, the G/Z's weak link is the half-shafts. If you dump the clutch at a high rpm with sticky tires, you're walking on egg shells. It's imperative that you launch with a little clutch slippage to reduce that initial torque shock. If you're good, you may even want to slightly engage the emergency brake a little and take out the clutch enough just to the point that the drivetrain is somewhat preloaded. Automatics are MUCH easier on drivetrains because you can fully preload the drivetrain with a brake stall. This is why automatic F-Bodies rarely grenade rear ends like their 6MT counterparts. It's also why the auto F-Bodies are usually quicker in the 1/4 mile too.

 

Well, plenty of auto F-bodies wasted the rears, but that's because we put in monster torque converters and hung the front wheels way up in the air on launch

Good point on the G's half shafts.

 

Grounding wires won't give you more power....I have 'em...they'll quicken your shifts a bit (if you have an auto) and they look nice...that's about it.

BTW - where are you getting a # of $10-12K for FI? I know a guy near me who just put the Vortech in his coupe, installed, tuned AND dynoed for $6K. If you TRULY feel like you need more bragging rights, I'd say it's worth waiting & just saving up the $6K..... Just my $0.02.

 

For serious NA power I personally would do the following:

1. Crawford headers
2. Stillen dual exhaust
3. Flashed Technosquare ecu

Do not upgrade pullies. 3.5 gears would help more.