Hi everyone, I've been lurking for a little while, and posted once, I think.. I'm getting a G35, to replace my s2000, and I might make the deal tomorrow. I have a question or two that I couldn't find on the internet.


- I've read you shouldn't do a dealer locate, but haven't read any real good reasons why not. Any thoughts/
- If I go with a dealer locate, should that cost me anything? Meaning in theory, should I get just as good a deal as if the car i was getting was on that lot?
- General car buying question: I think i'll be trading my S2000... Should I expect to give the dealer a test drive? Do they normally do a thorough mechanical check? I have no problem with each, I just want to know what to expect.
- I'll be financing through my credit union.. Does the dealer have any reason to have info like my SSN? Or maybe just on the final paperwork?
- Finally, if I decide to either do a dealer locate, or order from the factory, should I expect to do all the negotiating on both the new car and my trade-in tomorrow? Anything I need to keep vigilant of, since I won't be picking up the car tomorrow?
- In regard to the Navi, can I do like I can on my Garmin, where I can search for various types of POIs near my destination, my current location, a different city, current route, just by using the voice activation? I would hate to have that functionality not be associated with the VA, since the controls are locked while moving

Thank you all in advance, I've asked quite a few questions here..

I hope to soon be able to contribute to the forum as an owner!

 

1) i don't know of any good reason not to do a "dealer locate".... but i don't even know what this implies actually. do you mean dealer trade? or using the website to locate a car? what do you mean?
2) if you mean dealer trade, often the deal will be slightly more expensive, to fund the transfer itself. at most, it should only be a couple hundred bucks. no more.
3) you will still need to fill out a partial credit app due to the PATRIOT act. it should not be a hard hit on your credit, but not all dealers are honest about this. ask and have it in writing.
4) i would WANT to do all negotiating up front. that way you're not wasting your time, etc. get something in writing on a "four square" or a partial contract... but it should say that this is the deal the dealer is promising to offer you by said time, etc.
5) a lot of the controls are locked while moving, and i hate that. it's not nearly as easy to use as the honda/acura system. that said, it's a good system, but it's not GREAT. it's definitely better when the car isnt moving though. you can only do common POI searches through voice (atms, gas stations, etc), but not specific ones like movie theaters, etc.

good questions... i like people that do their fricken homework before buying

 

Dealer locate is when the dealer finds the car for you from another dealer's lot. Happens a lot late in the year because the 07s are basically exhausted, so depending on what kind of equipment you want, you might have to have him fish around for it.

I wouldn't do it though... I'd pick off the lot and sacrifice maybe color or an option or two (Tech Package comes to mind). Or I'd search online for the car and go to that dealer.

 

The dealer may try to charge you for the relocate, OR may not give you as good a deal to get it off their lot. Negotiation can still get you to the same place.

The one car I've traded in, the dealer just hopped in, drove it to the back, and they checked it out. Note that you will usually get more money by selling to a private party, even given the tax break with the dealer.
Not if you're already financed.
Negotiate the car first, then the trade - they will try and connect the two, keep them separate so you work the best deal individually.
Dunno

Smiley chosen by my 8-year-old

 

1. Dealer locate is fine - but don't pay a penny more for it - I'm sure if you call the neighboring dealer who has the car they'll be happy to send it to you for free just for doing business with them. BTW - I just did a dealer locate and didn't pay anything over the normal destination fees.

2. I think you should expect the dealer to do everything you would do if you were buying that car from them. It's fine to say that you want to go with whomever does the test drive and inspection.

3. No reason I can think of to have your SSN ever if you're financing. BTW - you may want to consider letting the dealer have the opportunity to earn your financing business in return for giving you a few free accessories. You can always re-fi through the credit union later to get the better rate.

4. Never link the car purchase negotiation and the trade in negotiation, buy their car then sell your car. If you want to put even more pressure on the deal do them on different days - make sure you get to a deal on buying the car first, then they have something to lose.

5. As far as being vigilant, you just have to make sure things get written down. Also, be very clear when you walk in the door that you value integrity and that once you've discussed something you don't want to re-discuss it. I did this and found a sales guy who valued that. When his manager got in the middle and tried opening up issues that were settled I told him (in front of the sales guy) that I wasn't doing that, and I walked away. Suffice it to say we got the deal done the way I wanted.

6. Don't know the answer to your question.

One last thing, and I'm sure you know this - the best leverage is competition. Get a number of quotes online from other dealers then start to work over the dealer you want to do business with.

Good luck!

 

The dealer will give a fairly brief look through with a clipboard and a checklist of items. Then they'll take it for a quick test drive. It's a pretty quick process.

As far as the financing through credit union - GREAT idea. Best way I have ever purchased a car. My credit union did ALL the work. They found the exact car I wanted and I told them what I wanted as a monthly payment and loan amount. No haggling with dealerships and no bs. It was SO easy and straight forward. Plus they set up a direct payment plan with my Credit Union checking account and gave me an interest rate discount for it. It literally took 3 days from the time I decided which car I wanted to actually driving it. The only thing I had to do at the dealership was bring my trade in vehicle. I didn't see any paperwork with my SSN on it. Good luck

 

Wow, that's service... I'm just lining up the financing with mine..

Thanks to all for your answers.. I have one additional question:

Whether I do a dealer trade/dealer locate or I order it from the manuf, what kind of contract do I sign, once we've settled the numbers on the new car and my trade-in? What I mean is, I'd imagine I don't actually sign the official sales contract then and there, since I haven't even been able to see the car. I expect I'll need to put down a deposit for the car, but what kind of paperwork should I expect to sign? I don't want to get suckered into signing something more binding than I have to.. Although I don't mean that I have any intention of backing out of the deal, once they get the car there.
Hope my question makes sense...

 

there are no binding contracts until you drive the car off the lot. that is a the law. period.

 

If you do, make sure it is a refundable deposit in case there is a reason not to purchase the car. Make sure this is in writing too.

 

nonrefundable deposits are also unlawful.

again, even after you sign all the REAL contracts, if you do not drive the car off the lot, the contracts are NOT binding.

 

and even then , in some states you have a cooling off period (3 days or so) where you can unwind the deal.