Pricing help...is this a good deal?
You are getting some really bad numbers, they are basically giving you about 700 - 1500 off their MSRP (based on the rebate)
I bought my car for 192 over invoice (if i remember my numbers)
Call Grubbs infiniti, i understand they are getting aggressive.
When you are trying to buy an end of model car, you have be careful that they have a solid level of inventory because if the inventory starts to slack then you get the whole supply and demand catching up and the deals disappear.
Good luck PM me if you want the guy who i bought my car from.
I bought my car for 192 over invoice (if i remember my numbers)
Call Grubbs infiniti, i understand they are getting aggressive.
When you are trying to buy an end of model car, you have be careful that they have a solid level of inventory because if the inventory starts to slack then you get the whole supply and demand catching up and the deals disappear.
Good luck PM me if you want the guy who i bought my car from.
I understand there are better offers. The 32900 is below invoice. The catch is that I wanted to get that number PLUS the .9% financing. Are the people getting near invoice pricing get the .9% financing as well?
Originally Posted by joewee350
I understand there are better offers. The 32900 is below invoice. The catch is that I wanted to get that number PLUS the .9% financing. Are the people getting near invoice pricing get the .9% financing as well?
I priced an 08 Journey with Premium & Wood on Edmunds based on the specs you provided. MSRP was $36,620 with an invoice of $33,549. That's a difference of $3,071, almost exactly equal to the current factory incentive.
They are now offering $32,900. That means they have offered up about $720 of their margin for the deal. Hilarious!
In contrast, we bought a G35X with prem, nav, tech, wood a couple of weeks ago. MSRP was $41,720 with an invoice of $38,055. We negotiated a price of $36,000 or $5,720 below MSRP including the factory $3,000 incentive.
So, if you subtract $3,000 from the $5,720 total price reduction, the dealer chipped in $2,720 of their margin. Our car included Nav, & Tech that was not in yours. There's about $450 of margin in the sticker for those two items so let's back that out. You are left with $2,270.
Your MSRP is $36,620. Subtract the factory incentive $3,000. Now subtract $2,270 in dealer margin. You are left with a price of $31,350. They are offering $32,900 or $1,550 above what I think you could get.
Without the factory rebate, add $3,000 to that price of $31,350 and you should be able to buy the car for $34,350 with 0.9% financing. They are offering you $35,500. That's a gap of $1,150.
Either way, they are $1,200 - $1,500 away from the deal I negotiated.
Now, what you & I don't know are any differences in hidden factory to dealer incentives by region. I bought mine in CT. You are in LA. Infiniti may be incenting differently up here based on inventory and competition. Also, my dealer may have been on the threshold of some spiff and needing to sell X more units to get the prize. Your dealer may be so far away from their next incentive tier that it makes more sense for them to try and get more for the car. No way of knowing.
Last edited by SpudRacer; Sep 28, 2008 at 12:26 PM.
Originally Posted by joewee350
I understand there are better offers. The 32900 is below invoice. The catch is that I wanted to get that number PLUS the .9% financing. Are the people getting near invoice pricing get the .9% financing as well?
And it shouldn't matter if you choose the $3000 incentive or the 0.9% financing because you should be negotiating your price first before even factoring those things in. I got $152 over invoice with the 0.9% financing. But the financing had nothing to do with that because I negotiated the price first.
I agree with TakeFlight. I picked up my 08 G35 a week or so ago for about $350 BELOW invoice. That was the deal independent of financing and incentives. I then got the $3K incentive since I was not financing.
Originally Posted by mike_d
its best to do the .9 financing compared to 3000 up front I believe. anyone else feel the same
Buying fever, growing family, shrinking family, job loss, relocation to a different climate, buying a home, illness, injury, accident, problems with the car, etc. can all affect your transportation needs.
And yeah, I know, you will absolutely positively without doubt be the one person who keeps the car for 10 years plus. But.....there's always a but.
Last edited by SpudRacer; Sep 28, 2008 at 09:03 PM.
Takeflight made a good point above. Let me expand on that idea. Most people are buying more than a car whether they realize it or not.
Most dealers will try their best to distract you with shiny objects meaning a sheet of numbers that while not incorrect are presented in the most irrational order they can dream up. The goal is to confuse the crap out of a buyer.
Your job is to know what you are buying and what you are paying for each thing you buy.
Each thing should be a completely separate discussion in pretty much that order. Once agreement has been reached on each item, you can move on to the next. Failure to reach agreement on any of the items is your cue to stand up, thank the sales guy and finance manager for their sincere efforts on your behalf, and head for the door. No peeking over your shoulder. Go home and wait for the inevitable phone call.
You should walk in the door having done your research on
This will let a dealer know you're a serious prospect and not totally dumb. It should speed the whole negotiation along.
Most dealers will try their best to distract you with shiny objects meaning a sheet of numbers that while not incorrect are presented in the most irrational order they can dream up. The goal is to confuse the crap out of a buyer.
Your job is to know what you are buying and what you are paying for each thing you buy.
- New Car
- Accessories
- Trade-in if any
- Financing (term, rate, prepayment penalties, other fees, etc.)
- Extended Warranties, Paint Sealer, Fabric Protection, Vin Etching, etc.
Each thing should be a completely separate discussion in pretty much that order. Once agreement has been reached on each item, you can move on to the next. Failure to reach agreement on any of the items is your cue to stand up, thank the sales guy and finance manager for their sincere efforts on your behalf, and head for the door. No peeking over your shoulder. Go home and wait for the inevitable phone call.
You should walk in the door having done your research on
- New car prices
- Current incentives from the manufacturer
- Wholesale value of a trade-in (not retail or private sale values). KBB, NADA, and Edmunds are quick and easy sources of wholesale values.
- Current financing rates for you at your bank or credit union
This will let a dealer know you're a serious prospect and not totally dumb. It should speed the whole negotiation along.
I am calling tomorrow saying I have seen many buyers receiving near invoice price and still receiving .9% financing. If they cant give me that or 31500 and me find my own financing...no deal. That makes it about 5k off MSRP. I will post results. Thanks for everyones help.
Last edited by joewee350; Sep 28, 2008 at 10:59 PM.
Originally Posted by SpudRacer
Nope. Not unless you're certain that you will keep the car for the full term of the loan and the term is more than 48 months. Statistically, it is cheaper for the manufacturer to offer low interest financing because the majority of the loans will be retired early for one reason or another. All the cash rebate on the other hand will be in your pocket day 1. No doubts, no worry about future events.
Buying fever, growing family, shrinking family, job loss, relocation to a different climate, buying a home, illness, injury, accident, problems with the car, etc. can all affect your transportation needs.
And yeah, I know, you will absolutely positively without doubt be the one person who keeps the car for 10 years plus. But.....there's always a but.
Buying fever, growing family, shrinking family, job loss, relocation to a different climate, buying a home, illness, injury, accident, problems with the car, etc. can all affect your transportation needs.
And yeah, I know, you will absolutely positively without doubt be the one person who keeps the car for 10 years plus. But.....there's always a but.
Thanks for that post... I honestly never thought of that and I am usually on top of my game when I go into the dealership.
Originally Posted by joewee350
I am calling tomorrow saying I have seen many buyers receiving near invoice price and still receiving .9% financing. If they cant give me that or 31500 and me find my own financing...no deal. That makes it about 5k off MSRP. I will post results. Thanks for everyones help.
Just so you know, no dealers give their "best" price over the phone. They know that people just use it to shop against other dealers.
Like everyone has said, offer $3k below invoice. But, do it in person.
Do you have a trade in? That matters too. They could give you $10k off the MSRP, but hose you on the trade in.
Originally Posted by SpudRacer
Takeflight made a good point above. Let me expand on that idea. Most people are buying more than a car whether they realize it or not.
Most dealers will try their best to distract you with shiny objects meaning a sheet of numbers that while not incorrect are presented in the most irrational order they can dream up. The goal is to confuse the crap out of a buyer.
Your job is to know what you are buying and what you are paying for each thing you buy.
Each thing should be a completely separate discussion in pretty much that order. Once agreement has been reached on each item, you can move on to the next. Failure to reach agreement on any of the items is your cue to stand up, thank the sales guy and finance manager for their sincere efforts on your behalf, and head for the door. No peeking over your shoulder. Go home and wait for the inevitable phone call.
You should walk in the door having done your research on
This will let a dealer know you're a serious prospect and not totally dumb. It should speed the whole negotiation along.
Most dealers will try their best to distract you with shiny objects meaning a sheet of numbers that while not incorrect are presented in the most irrational order they can dream up. The goal is to confuse the crap out of a buyer.
Your job is to know what you are buying and what you are paying for each thing you buy.
- New Car
- Accessories
- Trade-in if any
- Financing (term, rate, prepayment penalties, other fees, etc.)
- Extended Warranties, Paint Sealer, Fabric Protection, Vin Etching, etc.
Each thing should be a completely separate discussion in pretty much that order. Once agreement has been reached on each item, you can move on to the next. Failure to reach agreement on any of the items is your cue to stand up, thank the sales guy and finance manager for their sincere efforts on your behalf, and head for the door. No peeking over your shoulder. Go home and wait for the inevitable phone call.
You should walk in the door having done your research on
- New car prices
- Current incentives from the manufacturer
- Wholesale value of a trade-in (not retail or private sale values). KBB, NADA, and Edmunds are quick and easy sources of wholesale values.
- Current financing rates for you at your bank or credit union
This will let a dealer know you're a serious prospect and not totally dumb. It should speed the whole negotiation along.
I love educated customers; all we say is either YES or NO, and they're in and out very quick.
I move a unit, and they're happy, and I don't waste my whole day, so I can sell another car.
Everyone wins.
Originally Posted by silverG2007
Good luck with the purchase.
Just so you know, no dealers give their "best" price over the phone. They know that people just use it to shop against other dealers.
Like everyone has said, offer $3k below invoice. But, do it in person.
Do you have a trade in? That matters too. They could give you $10k off the MSRP, but hose you on the trade in.
Just so you know, no dealers give their "best" price over the phone. They know that people just use it to shop against other dealers.
Like everyone has said, offer $3k below invoice. But, do it in person.
Do you have a trade in? That matters too. They could give you $10k off the MSRP, but hose you on the trade in.
3k below invoice is legit, as long as you don't finance at 0.9%.
I've done deals where we did the 3k incentive, and financed at the REGULAR rate, because it is beneficial to the customer due to large trade equity and/or large down payment, or they're going to be paying off the car in a few months.


