Here's a snippet for removing the door finisher panel, doesn't look like you even have a door inner metal panel so that's handy. In that picture that shows them using a little prybar to pop out the door panel after the screws have been removed you can usually just grab the bottom of the door panel and give it a good yank to pop it off it's clips. Once it's unclipped from the bottom edge you then LIFT UP to unhook it from the top where it meets the window glass.

It's really easy to overthink these steps, once you have the 3 screws removed the door panel is literally just hooked onto the top and snapped into some plugs at the bottom. Just pry at the bottom to unsnap it from those plugs and lift straight up, Nissan uses some really good clips so your chances of breaking them are extremely minimal and they are replaceable items if you do break one.

 

Definitely the motor.. plugged in the new one and works fine. Just need to install it tomorrow or Friday.

 

I got the rear window motor replaced and it does got up and down fine.

I just can't get auto up/down initialization to work on this window.

I've cut power, waited several minutes, disconnected switch, held from 5-20 seconds.

Running out of scenarios to get it to work.

Wondering if I simply have a bad switch? Perhaps this is what resulted in the failed motor and caused it burn out our something.. just speculation

Any other tricks? I have reset everything in this car before so it does feel like a failed component.

 

IDK but my driver's window always loses auto and sometimes I hold it closed / open for a minute or more.

Eventually it comes back.

 

EDIT: I did try longer period but system cut power to window at around 25 seconds and had to power cycle the car to get the window to work again.

I assume this might have limit switches or is everything based on current/voltage load?

Maybe not drawing enough power or if physical limit defective in some way.

Using OEM PN but did pick up on eBay since it was reputable seller but that doesn't mean much these days.

There is no reset button these motors (old and new) like I see some of the earlier models had.

https://parts.infinitiusa.com/p/8986...731-JX00C.html

PN: 80731-JX00C

As a test swapped switches from right side and same behavior.

Oh well.. if it just acts like an old school power window I'm fine with it as it serves it commuter duties.

 

I did bench test the motor on vehicle harness before installation to confirm it worked.

••• Does this even apply to our vehicles?

A PIA if I have to pull the new motor out again to simulate this and run the motor not attached

https://youtu.be/d6UvdbJ3nFk

https://my.cardone.com/techdocs/pt%2047-0001.pdf

 

EDIT: Just remembered something, you MUST have the door closed to do the calibration. Also the key/start button needs to be in the ON position, not ACC, and the engine needs to be off.

Try setting the encoder on both sides of the switch, BCM might not have a good reference start point for the motor encoder.

Start with the window fully rolled up, hold auto down (second click) until it's fully opened then continue to hold for 3+ seconds, now hold the auto UP until it's fully closed and continue to hold for 3+ seconds.

If that doesn't do it I would try from the driver seat window switch instead of that rear seat switch.

 

Thanks! Just tried that. No dice....

Wonder if the BCM needs a power reboot with a disconnected battery?

 

I may have a V36 outlier with a one hit Google hit problem :-)

 

You could try, it might reset all your windows but if you're able to get the rest programmed that will help narrow down the issue.

I'm thinking you got one with a screwed up encoder and it's not sending those pulse signals to the BCM therefore it's not nothing to actually remember.

 

If that window motor will fit on another door (probably the same as the passenger front) then I would try swapping those two motors. If the problem follows the motor then the problem IS the motor.

 

Input greatly appreciated!!!

Probably don't have time for motor swaps anytime soon but will try battery cut this weekend.

 

Here is an interesting observation on stock power window motor.

Original motor didn't work in vehicle unplugging and plugging back in.

Immediately plugging the new motor it worked fine so made a premature assessment that all was well with simple new motor swap.

Direct battery to power leads on "old" power window motor show the window motor works fine in both directions. Encoder items inside could be messed up though.

Looks like we have a little electrical gremlin here. Nothing else in the vehicle is quirky at this point. This is a very stock vehicle and nothing has been done 3rd party for electrical work as I have had the vehicle since new.

I do still need to power cycle the vehicle as well.

 

I would start inspecting the door wiring harness at the flexible part where it hinges with the door open/close. Might be a broken wire making intermittent contact that's throwing everything off.

 

Moderator Cleric670 edit: Banned for botting, and on a separate note, who TF bots for a taxi service??? Did I miss something in 2021?