I've done a search but all of the power window threads seem to relate to the auto up/down reset problem. My front passenger window won't roll up or down from either the passenger switch or the driver switch. I've checked the obvious (not locked) and have come up empty. Has anyone run into this problem before? Luckly the window is stuck in the UP position so this isn't super critical but I would really like to be able to fix this myself rather than having to take it into the dealer and pay an arm and a leg.

I took the door trim off and inspected all of the connections and they look fine. Unfortunately the anti-pinch function means this motor is probably a PWM controlled stepper motor, not a simple 12V DC motor so the testing procedure isn't as easy as it could be.

Any suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.
Regards,
-Matt

You may need a new window motor or some how the window got off track etc.

try holding the window down button for a few seconds not sure if it was up or down but try holding both ways for about 10 secs it should reset it

Yeah, I tried that. Up and down. On both the driver's side and passenger side. No dice. I think that's the procedure to reset the auto up/down functionality, not for a window that won't move at all.I could be mistaken though.
-Matt

Correct.

if you cant hear the motor trying to move the window then you might have a dead motor, i suggest you reset them by unhooking the battery negative for a few seconds and holding down the brake pedal for 10secs to clean out the elec system. and try again, if you get no attempt from the motor to move the window then try swapping out the motor with your driver side before buying a new one. (you will loose radio presets, save seat etc memory as soon as you reconnect the battery)

Man, just today, the driver's side window got stuck or stopped working halfway down. Then after a few attempts, it rolled all the way down. But stayed there. After a few attempts, it rolled back up. I am afraid to test it lest it stay down and it rains.

COuldnt tell if it was the motor or it got stuck. Couldnt hear any straining sound.

What crappy timing. Just 2 months after my 2007 G35 warranty expired(the 4 year warranty). I might go to a Nissan dealer since it might be cheaper to get it checked there.

I tried disconnecting the battery this morning. No luck with that either. I looked up the motor and unfortunately they're different parts for driver and passenger door kinda dumb... Hopefully the differences are minor and the two are electrically compatible. I did pull the motor out of the assembly and it still didn't turn (eliminating the possibility that the window is just stuck).

found this on aother thread. good luck

Guys, if you can't hear the motor when pressing the button - then it's your motor.

If the issue is elsewhere here's what works 100% of the time for me (with it being stuck or down). Just hold the up/down button, depending on which way you're going for, and slam the door while still holding the button. Works every time, but I know I will need to take the door apart at some point and get it fixed. Just dunno if I need to replace rubber tracks or if this is a simple tie up & spray some lube on the tracks.. Comments?

I can say for a fact that the issue is not my motor even though I can't hear it when I push the switch. I held down my unlock button on the keyfob and all of my windows (including the passenger window) rolled down just fine. However, infiniti decided NOT to include an auto-up mechanism like they did on the older cars . so to get the window back up I had to hotwire the motor. The motor itself works just fine.

After studying the wiring diagram I've found that the +/-12V used to roll up/down the window is sourced from the switch in the door itself. Each door switch has a microcontroller that decides when to roll the window up or down depending on input from the door switches and a serial interface (which is how the BCM is able to tell the windows to roll down when you hold down the unlock button). I believe the problem I'm having is with the passenger side switch itself. The 12V battery supply is present at the switch but never makes it to the motor. The switch is only $70 but I would like to try to swap one first before I drop the coin on the switch. Anyone in the Orlando area want to let me try a swap? maybe I should try to "test drive" a G37 from the dealer (Kidding).

I guess I'll just have to take a risk on the door switch. What's odd though is that as far as I can tell the same serial interface is used by the master control on the driver's door but that control can't roll the window up or down while the body control module CAN... Very strange.

aah ok thats right...it was worth a shot

I have to say that I've never worked on the door/window switches on the G, but I have somewhat extensively on other cars and I have seen similar symptoms to what you are describing. What I usually found in those cases was either a separate ground path was used for the circuits from different control points and, for one reason or another, one of those discrete ground paths had faulted, allowing control from some, but not ALL control points.

The cause of the ground faults were usually either a bad switch, a pinched/broken wire (usually in the pass-through under the door hinge), or a bad connector at either the switch or the body harness connector for the door wiring (usually on the sides of the left and right footwells). I know they can be frustrating to troubleshoot, but from your description, it sounds like you've got the situation fairly well in hand; certainly better than most!

LMAO

Man, that fixed it for me! Thank you so much.