I don't know if it's worth it to anyone, but after i got the car back from accident repairs, idle was rather high.

That same weekend i was bleeding the brakes with the battery disconnected -- about 4 hours or so as i left the car for a while before finishing up. When everything was back together, the high idle and SES was gone.

 

Hey Mike, what's the reason for disconnecting the battery when bleeding brakes? I have never done it on any car I've bled the brakes on, and never had a problem, but I did see it mentioned in the FSM. What is the concern about?

 

Drove it to church this a.m. and it set an SES code for the first time. Got my scan tool out and it was P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected. So I deleted the code and it didn't come back, but still have the erratic idle. Tried the procedure a few more tries w/no joy.

As for unplugging the battery for 4 hours, wouldn't that just make sure any code was reset and it would have to relearn everything? I'm willing to try it, but I had previously had it unplugged for 20 min or so and I would have thought that was sufficient time..

 

Oh, for sure. If you're in a hurry, after disconnecting the negative terminal you can just press the brake pedal numerous times. It bleeds off any residual charge in the system to accelerate the process even further.

 

IIRC, it's to allow some of the fluid that's in the ABS system to flow through, or something like that. The FSM calls for either pulling the fuse (or was it the actuator? i forget, sorry ) or disconnecting the battery.

By doing so, it should make for a more complete fluid exchange.

 

^^ Interesting; looks like I've got to some updating to do.

 

i've cleaned my TB twice since i bought it three years ago (span of about 15k miles).. i dont go crazy forcing the butterfly valve open all the way and trying to wipe it all down with cloth. with electronic throttebodies im very conservative with it. on my g35x or my 540i, i only open the butterfly slightly (just enough to get a thin pippet in to spray the cleaner. only wipe down before the buttlerfly....

never had an issue or CEL on either cars with this procedure. my hunch is people are used to forcing the butterfly valve open almost fully like in manual TB and screw up the calibrations.

 

^yup idk wat people are doing but u only need to move the plate like a cm or 2 to get access to area the plate is covering.

 

Alright I screwed up then. When I cleaned my throttle body I opened the butterfly valve pretty much all the way. I had no idea that would mess **** up. After that my cel light came on. I did the ecu reset with pushing the pedel, and stuff till the cel light stopped blinking. Started the car and the rpms went down to like 750 at idle. Everything was back to normal. The cel light was still on though. So I let the car run for half an hour and took it around the block once. After shutting the car off as soon as I started it again it went back to 900 rmp ideal like it forgot what it learned any ideas what to do???

 

what code are you getting?

 

p0507. just that the system is running 200 rpms high at idle. I called the dealership they said they could fix it with the machine they have, if the manual procedures don't work. but its 99 bucks! for a 30 sec thing.

 

was it warmed up when you did the pedal fix? if not get it warmed up, and try it again

 

yes it was. i unplugged the battery all night and i couldn't time it right this morning before i went to work. what if i cleared the code then reset the idle control. maybe it wont pop back up then? or does the cell light have to be on in the first place for this?

 

when i do the procedure it works fine. the rpms go down to 700 maybe 750. its just once the turn the car off it goes back to before.

 

I'm having the exact same issue you are describing Goldhawg, please let me know if you have resolved this issue yet. I cleaned my throttle bodies and now my car idles high (2kish) until it is warmed up, once the car is warmed up the car revs between 1200rpms and 2100rpms about every 1.5 seconds. Once it reaches 2100rpms it just drops down to 1200rpms. I am also getting a CEL but have not taken it to Autozone to be read yet. When the car is in Drive the car idles at about 1200. I have managed to reset the ECU but I don't think I'm doing to the idle relearn procedure correctly or my TBs are both just broken and I need to buy new ones . If anyone can shed some light on this, specifically if you fixed the issue by doing the relearn procedure, then that would be great.

Thanks in advance.