Posted this in the DIY section w/no response, hoping for feedback here.
Count me in the Nissan victim for unenlightened throttle body cleaners. Over the last year I moved to Ohio and got two used G35X's (2007 & 2008). My 2007 just rolled over 100k so I decided to put in new plugs. To do so you have to remove the throttle body (to access coil pack under them) so I was able to clean them while off. I've cleaned throttle bodies for years w/no problems but this is my first time doing the infinity's. I did not unplug anything (including the negative battery terminal which in hindsight should have done since I was unplugging the coil pack). After putting it back together I have a high and surging idle. Reading thru most of the 27 pages of this forum, I went out and disconnected negative battery, and then went thru the complete relearn procedure. I don't have an SES light on; only the high and surging idle (between 1200-2200 up and down w/engine fully warm). My only problem in the relearn procedure is the step 4-6 in the ECU reset procedure:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

When I release the accelerator pedal w/CEL blinking, it will stop on its own and go solid. Of course when I complete the process anyway and start it, I have no SES light on. So am I resetting this properly or not? Not clear that I even need to do this part if I don't have an SES light on, but the the throttle relearn says you have to do this first. When I do the throttle position learning at the end of the link above, I can do all those steps, but I still have the surge.

I did go out an drive it last nite very aggressively and it may have tightened the surge range a bit. Going to drive today and see if it improves any. If it doesn't get better I will take it to a mechanic that can do the relearn, although if I'm doing the process above correctly don't know what his reset will do that this doesn't. Hard to imagine damaging the TB's; although many posters seem convinced you can by cleaning. Any other suggestions based on my description of the problem.

UPDATE: Drove it to yesterday, filled w/gas, and did several WOT runs. Seems to run good anytime RPM>2000. It did decelerate nicely as I got into work to about 1200, but then shortly started the herky jerky between 1200-2200. Hopefully will learn more over the next couple of days. Same thing on way home. Driving again this a.m.

 

ur supposed to do the procedures after the car is warmed up. did u do that? also try doing the procedure a few times until ur used to it.

 

mine was doing the same, the best advice i got was to keep trying the relearn til its back to normal!

 

Yes engine was fully warm to other poster. When you say yours was doing the same, do you mean just the herky jerky engine, or do you mean that you likewise during the relearn procedure had the CEL light go solid rather than continue blinking per the instructions? This is what I'm trying to figure out--does the fact that mine goes solid mean I'm not doing the procedure right or does it just mean that since I didn't have a SES code this first step is not necessary?

 

The timing is critical. Refer to the diagram on the below link. At the bottom it will show what the check engine light (MIL) should be doing at each step. Note that the CEL should turn off after you release the pedal at the end. If this doesn't occur you didn't do it correctly. I had issues after cleaning my throttle bodies too and found that the step where you press and depress 5 times quickly was causing this not to work for me. MAKE SURE YOU START COUNTING THE 7 SECS AFTER THE 5 PEDAL RELEASE..... not after 5 secs. The 5 pedal pushes may only take 3 seconds so start counting the 7 seconds right as you release. This is where I went wrong and when I started counting after the last release instead of after 5 secs it worked first try. Hope this helps. GL

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p...e_learning.php

Edit: Once you do it correctly give it a few days and a lot of miles too as it took a while for the car to act "normally" again.

 

^ whs, i have done the relearn over 50 times now on my car and many other Gs and i still mess up the timing every time and have redo it, but trust me that the car is fine(as long as u connected everything back correctly) and you just need to be super patient and determined to keep doing it over and over again until u get it right.

Even after having done this SOO many times i actually got stuck doing it on my friends G coupe about a month ago and it took me 8 or 9 tries! :0

 

i had the jerky engine, and mine would also idle up and down by itself as if i was revving!

dont remeber what my light was doing but just keep doing the relearn took me a countless amount of times! probably round an hour or so til i got it right!

 

As long as you didnt touch or hold open the butterfly, you should be ok. If you did, then you might be into a TPS/Throttle body. Theyr'e finiky if manually operated.

 

^ that should not be an issue as mentioned before i have done this service on more than just a few Gs and FXs and i always hold open/move the butterfly to clean properly and follow with proper reset and everything ends up just fine.

 

Hey kool, when you have done this, do you go ahead and disconnect the negative batt cable? I'm still wondering how the ECU could possibly know the butterfly was ever moved, or if a connector was unplugged, if it was sound asleep during the whole process. That part has never made sense to me.

 

^ i had 0 rpm problems post-cleaning, i did NOT disconnect the neg or pos of the battery or the TB harness at any time and the car was in OFF position during whole cleaning process. I moved the butterfly valve with my fingers while cleaning as well, no ecu reset or relearns afterwards with battery disconnect or anything.

Then i did this on my firends car same way without disconnecting the battery and his idle got messed up but was fixed after numerous pedal resets, then i did it on the FX with the battery neg removed and it had weird rpm also fixed with pedal reset, basically if u go through the DIY for the TB cleaning you will see different ppl had different experiences with and without the negative removed so keep that in mind. At the end of the day if you have abit of time and do the pedal procedure EXACTLY as stated and with a timing device it WILL fix your rough idle.

 

Still having no joy; I've done the procedure at least 20 times. I've paid particular attn to the note above about making sure the 7 sec is after the 5 pedal pushes rather than 5 sec. Since I'm not having much luck I've tried various ways on the timing (i.e., add/subtract just a bit on the timing), but still no joy. This sucks.

For those that have success, does the idle immediately quite down to normal, or do you have to drive in between attempts to see if it calms down?

Also, when you do the procedure again, do you have to do the full 3 part procedure (ECU reset, or just the diagram?

Thx!

 

Do all three step each time you attempt (pedal release position learning, throttle valve closed position learning, idle air volume learning).... not sure if you were doing that cause that could be your problem. No ECU reset is required. I used the stopwatch on my cellphone for the timing device. Once you do get it (CEL behaves as described by Infiniti in each step) then it can still take a few days and several miles of driving before it returns to normal. Good luck and let us know when you get it figured out.

 

Im curious about this as well.

 

Thx..I'll drive it again for a few days. The CEL does do exactly like the diagram says, but when I start the car it immediately goes into the cycling of the idle between 1200-2100 rpm. I was under the impression from the earlier posts that when the procedure was done correctly, the idle would immediately be calmed down well below 1000, with some learning coming from driving to make it perfect.