G3065, good job on getting the R1 rotors, the centrics (stoptech) are just as good and I agree with the previous posters that quality is #1 when talking brake systems.
How hard are you braking that you're warping the rotors. If you stop really hard numerous times you should not keep your foot on the brakes while you are standing still (if your car is an auto Park if 6MT do not use the parking brake it will warp your rears a 2x4 is the best I can come up with). Seating still after cooking the brakes will create uneven cooling from the pads contacting the rotor only in the pad contact area and BAM! your rotors are warped.

Personally I prefer the solid rotor (more contact area) as I don't see much water in Socal and I don't plan on tracking this car. BTW drilled seem to get cracks around the holes as they age FYI keep an eye on them.

I also think that rotor replacement should be easy unless there is a trick to replacing them, any senior members have this experiance under their belt?

Y

 

Nice post, good info
This thread has a couple DIY videos (pg1) and more rotor info too
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-bra...on-rotors.html

 

Mehh . . .in regards to 6MT's: I don't think your parking brake is going to warp your rotors to any extent that applying your regular brakes can (lead to). If it does, you've got other problems; ie. you're either completely and ridiculously overheating your brakes, or you've put some seriously inferior quality brake parts on it.

Remember, the parking brake is a very thin and a totally different contact patch than the regular pads. Plus, unless you live in a completely flat area, you're going to have to hold your 6MT car somehow, AND IT'S NOT WITH A 2x4. Also, it's not exactly how you've described it: where you stop with hot brakes and BAM the rotors warp. What will more likely happen is 'pad transfer' MAY occur which CAN ultimately lead to disc thickness variation which, when pronounced enough, is commonly (and incorrectly) interpreted as warpage. This is a process that occurs over time though, so unless you are literally coming right off the race track and pulling into the pits, your brakes should not be THAT hot. (If you did just come off the track, or some equivalent, then shame on you for not taking a cool down lap.)

I think while you're interpretation is in the right direction, perhaps it is a bit overzealous. I just don't think it's fair to say and/or imply that it's either instant or an automatic certainty that "warpage" WILL occur.

As far as rotor replacement goes, NO, I don't think there's anything particularly special about replacing them; no tricks per se. Be sure your hubs are cleaned up thoroughly before you put the rotor on. After cleaning, I use a thin film of anti-seize paste on them so the rotors do not stick to them (for next time).

.02




btw, here a good article for reference:

http://www.powerbrake.co.za/download..._01_judder.pdf




NOT a fan !

I made a comment a while back on the integrity/value of those videos as a reference. It's at the end of the thread.



.

 

VQ. You are correct in that warping doesn't happen in one careless moment. And yes the 2x4 is for the track. Cool down lap takes place on the way to the pits! I know better than that but I can't help myself during the actual cooldown laps if I'm on one cause sometimes they just wave you off the track but when given the opportunity I like to work on new lines and tend to still get on the pedal.
BTW I've had the G for almost a month so I'm not super familiar with the components in it. It's my dd and I love it. Makes my hour commute fun and engaging.
Thread jack OVER.
Looking forward to reviews from the OP.
One last question VQSmile. Do you know how fade resistant the brakes are on the G? On my old car I could abuse them and zero fade all day long at the track, but on an Acura 3-4 hard stops from like 75 and they are cooking and feels like the pad is melting on the rotor. I have not pushed the G's brakes, but I could use some intel so I don't find out at the wrong time.
Thank you
Y

 

Thank you to all of you who make this forum one of the most informative and educational . Personally i don't drive the car that hard to brake so suddenly, I always slowly get to a stop and funny you mention it I do this alot, where I leave the car in neutral at lights and take my foot off the brake when not on a hill etc. I should be getting the shipment on monday and will more then likely install it same day at a shop. My brakes are squealing in every possible situation lol. Pictures one the way, and I can't say that I've seen some good pics of g sedans with the drilled rotors.
Will keep you guys updated!

 

Very useful information!

 

Drilled are just for looks, it used to be for weight savings, but if you're that hardcore you go 2-piece anyway.

A good racing rotor is a good quality blank you change often.

Good quality cheap blanks are the way to go period.

Use them, abuse them, replace them

 

Update:
I finally got the rotors and pads installed today and managed to take some pictures for you guys for future references. The mechanic took a while but from what I see everything functions better then I have had even when the factory setup had no issues. R1concepts did manage to send a form that addressed how to brake in the pads and rotors properly. I basically drove around for a little bit completing the tasks recommended.
1. accelerate to 40mph and brake down to the slowest speed without stopping completely (x4)
Do not leave long gaps of time when performing this process (at a good steady pace)
2. accelerate to 55mph and brake strongly to the slowest possible speed without completely stopping
LAST STEP
3. Accelerate to 65mph and suddenly slow down to 15mph without completely stopping.
After you managed to follow this process let the brakes cool off for 20 minutes.
Their statement said that 400-500 miles have to be driven until the full effect of the brakes (PADS) come through.
You may notice minimal squeaking sounds, more brake dust, and an odor/smoke but that is considered normal.
Other then that everything is nice and tight and I can now compare it to the brand new loaner I drove the other day. As far as looks you be the judge.
I tried to get the best shots/angles i could but there is only so much you can
do with a camera phone.

 

They look really nice! Thanks for sharing, might as well just get R1concept instead of the ebay ones and have my brother install them for me

 

Can you provide a link to where you bought them from and how are they holding up so far?? They look really good on your car!!! Especially with the 18''. Cant wait to get them

 

i think he said he got them from R1 Concepts i too got the D/S rotors but form their premium line ~3.5yrs ago & over ~45k miles ago and they are still running strong on 1 set of pads unlike the stockers that warped within 15k with one hard braking incident...

My only suggestion is to paint the area that the pads dont sweep(the bright silver areas taht you can see close to the hub) with black paint else you will see rust accumulate in that area which is very normal but not pleasant to the eyes

 

sorry my pc crashed and just got it fixed... r1concepts.com or here is the direct link for a 2007 infiniti g35 non sport. http://www.r1concepts.com/infiniti-g35-2007-2wd2.htm

R1 Concepts (Eline Cross-Drilled)
So far I've driven with these new rotors and pads almost a 1000 miles and love the performance on quick stops, nice and smooth braking in general with the Centrick (CTEC) premium pads... my next set of pads will be the Hawk HPS just to see what the differences are. It rained here for a week and I didn't notice anything abnormal such as (discoloration) etc. No squeaks, looks good, and reasonable pricing. The shop that I took them to commented and asked where I got them as they appeared to be good rotors from their standpoint. Let me know what you think when you get them.
Additionally, I thought that these rotors were going to look sketchy at first but really liked the way it turned out. I still have my eye out though if I notice anything wrong with the rotors. Plus they make the ugly calipers less noticeable

 

i am looking at some break work in the next few months.... so i am fairly interested in this

 

all i can say is this..u get what you pay for... i got similar rotors off of ebay....and 1st set warped...Manufac sent me another set...and those warp as well...so i decided to get the first set of drill/slotted roters cut and so far they have been okay...the first set warped after 1500 miles....and then warmped again after 1000 miles...could have been the way i drive...and break hard... but if you are going to buy some new rotors...its worth investing the money in a brand name rotors..

Stoptech, brembo, DBA, centric are all good brand in my own opinion. personally if i had the money i would really invest in Two piece rotors that DBA makes they are lovely!

 

I am looking at them and they seem a lot more expensive than what you paid.

Am i doing it wrong?