Is this Compatible?
Is this Compatible?
Im trying to install a new amplifier in my 08 G35 sedan No-Nav ( Bose system )
Will it be compatible with me bose speakers and subs if i get this swapped by a professional?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-R600-5.html
If any other amps are out there please let me know.
Thank you
Will it be compatible with me bose speakers and subs if i get this swapped by a professional?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te-R600-5.html
If any other amps are out there please let me know.
Thank you
hmmmm I am not sure. I had the RMS of all the speakers at some point but i cant find them. Make sure its not getting a powered sound signal to the stock amp. Generally it will sound better because the bose likes to cut out on some of the frequencies
The real reason Bose cuts out some of the frequencies is to remove the peaky frequency response of the Bose speakers, and to mask their weak spots. Leaving the factory processing and amp intact will preserve that tuned "just right for this car" EQ curve. However, merely replacing the amplifier will do relatively little for overall sound quality. And if improving the sound quality and achieving higher volume levels is what you're after, then your best bet is to go with an oem integration processor (for example: JL Audio Cleansweep). There are several units on the market that will yield excellent results while retaining the factory head unit as a source. Once you bypass the factory EQ settings, you will be able to start with a clean slate and build your system from there. Stock Head Unit ->OEM Integration Processor -> Aftermarket Amp(s) -> Aftermarket Speakers.
Best bang for the buck is to first add an aftermarket amp and sub. That alone makes a relatively large difference.
Best bang for the buck is to first add an aftermarket amp and sub. That alone makes a relatively large difference.
Actually the amp will do alot. The factory Bose amp doesn't cut signals because of masking for sound quality, it cuts so it doesn't blow the speakers that are being cranked. The Bose sound relatively well if the music u are playing is actually decent quality. As it has been checked on the forms many people have found by going pre Bose amp, it's actually the full range of the sound spectrum. Now a clean sweep is unneeded if u are going pre Bose amp, just make sure with your new amp, that all the watts going to the speakers are in the range. I still use my stock amp but with I have a bass restorer for my sub amp. It's really the same principles wether a Japanese or German, speakers are speakers. We can figure out how the harness going to the amp works again so you can tap into it before the amp
I was more leaning towards the fact that the Bose speakers aren't meant to be pushed by an aftermarket amp be it pre or post Bose EQ. The Bose EQ was preset specifially for our cars' interiors using simple real time analysis. Once you take away the factory EQ without replacing the Bose speakers, you will hear them without any correction for their imperfetions. That in itself would be a step backwards away from achieving higher quality sound. We're talking everything from peaks and dips at certain frequencies, delay, staging, etc.
Here is a link to my thread when I was learning as I went through this with my setup:
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-aud...l-500-1-a.html
On the 1st page, you will find a diagram I made of where to tap in to go pre EQ.
Good luck.
Here is a link to my thread when I was learning as I went through this with my setup:
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-aud...l-500-1-a.html
On the 1st page, you will find a diagram I made of where to tap in to go pre EQ.
Good luck.
So you reccommend the JL Amp? Do you only have it connected to you're stock subs?
Again i will not be doing this my self. Will it cost a lot to get a professional to do it?
Again i will not be doing this my self. Will it cost a lot to get a professional to do it?
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I mean I don't truely hear any real imperfections that a good amp with a good EQ can't fix.
I wouldn't go with JL in my opinion i had a 1000/1 and it died less than a year I had it. Right now I have a massive audio N3 Microblock that sounds great. Alpine, Rockford, Cerwin Vega, MB Quart are all companies I have used for projects and they sound great and preform great.
I wouldn't go with JL in my opinion i had a 1000/1 and it died less than a year I had it. Right now I have a massive audio N3 Microblock that sounds great. Alpine, Rockford, Cerwin Vega, MB Quart are all companies I have used for projects and they sound great and preform great.
My amp is driving a single JL Audio 13W7 sub. The factory sub has been removed from the rear deck.
I don't necessarily recommend JL as most people tend to think of the brand as being overpriced. What I do recommend is that you replace the Bose speakers if you choose to go through the trouble of upgrading the factory amp.
Are there cheaper amps that will give more bang for the buck? (pun intended) Sure, there are plenty. Are there cheaper amps that compare to the JL Slash Series amps' sound quality or performance? Very few. The comparison reminds me of when people look at my car and call it an overpriced Maxima. We know they are two completely different animals, but to the bystanders...
By the way, both the 500/1 and the 1000/1 are running strong after a year of daily use and being regulated, they produce their advertised power all the way down to 11.0 volts. Compare that to most other amps you'll see that they need nothing less that 14.4 to putput their full RMS power. So, in a nutshell, JL was expensive but it worked for me.
Whatever amp you choose, just be sure it is able to accept balanced differential inputs.
I don't necessarily recommend JL as most people tend to think of the brand as being overpriced. What I do recommend is that you replace the Bose speakers if you choose to go through the trouble of upgrading the factory amp.
Are there cheaper amps that will give more bang for the buck? (pun intended) Sure, there are plenty. Are there cheaper amps that compare to the JL Slash Series amps' sound quality or performance? Very few. The comparison reminds me of when people look at my car and call it an overpriced Maxima. We know they are two completely different animals, but to the bystanders...
By the way, both the 500/1 and the 1000/1 are running strong after a year of daily use and being regulated, they produce their advertised power all the way down to 11.0 volts. Compare that to most other amps you'll see that they need nothing less that 14.4 to putput their full RMS power. So, in a nutshell, JL was expensive but it worked for me.
Whatever amp you choose, just be sure it is able to accept balanced differential inputs.
Honestly, I do not wish to change much in the system except them amplifier only if the gains are noticeable.
And i will look towards JL Audio and well aware of their name and how good their products really are.
Yes you are right about people calling it a Glorified Maxima but honestly my friend has a new Maxima and our G's are amazing cars. Drive on a curved road is a lot better on my G and i can achieve higher speeds unlike the FWD Maxima.
And i will look towards JL Audio and well aware of their name and how good their products really are.
Yes you are right about people calling it a Glorified Maxima but honestly my friend has a new Maxima and our G's are amazing cars. Drive on a curved road is a lot better on my G and i can achieve higher speeds unlike the FWD Maxima.
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