For 6MT, If the clutch fluid level is not at max, should I fill it up to max? Or is the clutch fluid level an indication of clutch wear and should be left alone?

 

fill and monitor if low again theres a leak u need to address

 

Short answer:
Yes, the lower fluid level is an indication of clutch wear (although you also need to make sure there's no leak either), BUT . . . that DOES NOT mean it should be left alone.


Long answer:

OK, from my point of view anyway, using the reservoir fluid level (brakes or clutch) as an indicator of potential pad/disc wear is all well and good, but that's just about the extent of it; IT'S JUST AN INDICATION!. To assume the manufacturer 'calibrated' the reservoir to indicate the best replacement times for your pads/disc is just plain silly. Of course if you ask a dealer whether you should go ahead and change the pads/disc out automatically when the fluid level is down, do you really expect them to say no?? OF COURSE they are are going to take the most conservative approach because it serves them best by generating more revenue, plus they can always say they were just interested in ensuring your safety; it's a pat answer for them; like asking a lion if it wants some meat.

Some say not to top off the fluid reservoir because it will be too full when you eventually replace the pads/disc and that you would have to remove fluid to accomodate the thicker new ones, or that you will then have a greater potential to run them down to metal-on-metal without any further warning. I say bullpucky to that. First off, it takes less than a minute to siphon off enough fluid with a turkey baster (readily available in most any grocery store for like $2) from the reservoir when you do your brakes/clutch. This is also standard operating procedure for any professional shop anyway!!!

Second, since you typically only replace your brakes, and hopefully your clutch too, every few years (if not even less frequently), then it really is time to flush and replace that old fluid anyway, so worrying about removing some is a moot point. Lastly, if you are at all attentive to the feel of you car's brakes and/or clutch (which you probably are if you're on a forum), then you will more than likely feel a noticeable difference in feel, sound, and performance when wear surfaces get REALLY thin; and that is still BEFORE you ever get to metal-on-metal.

Obviously, you have the ready option of checking your brake pad wear visually to keep a safety margin, but no so with your clutch, so you do have to pay attention to the feel. I have never had, or seen, a clutch wear down to the rivets though without first slipping SOOO badly that it wasn't in obvious need of replacement for slippage alone. Remember though, in the very worst case, even if you did hit the rivets in the clutch disc, you would most likely be replacing your flywheel along with the clutch anyway, so no biggy. At the very least, it would be resurfaced, but I don't think I've ever heard of people doing that with our dual-mass flys.

.02

 

Is it ok to run it below max and above min and just leave it like that? And monitor if the level drop sooner expected?

 

Absolutely. That's why they give you a range. Keep it above min and you'll be fine.

 

Coincidentally, I just checked my fluids a few days ago and noticed the clutch fluid was dead on the minimum line. Instinctively I drove straight to the closest auto parts store to top it off. I accidentally but very minimally overfilled it and had to run home to get some excess out. Taking a paper towel and dabbing it got out what I wanted and then I noticed black flaky stuff on the towel. Looking at the fluid and it's dark colored and tinted reddish. The car has 70k miles on it and i have ~5k miles on it being the 2nd owner. I'll be getting it flushed soon. Does the siphon trick work on the clutch system in this car?

I personally haven't noticed any clutch slippage while in gear. Also, that cmc reservoir cap doesn't want to fit over the little grooves. Mine is just tightly pushed on right now which can't be right but appears to be tight enough for the time. I used Valvoline Dot 3&4 for the fluid.

 

^ i do the siphon drain and fill every ~10k miles and it works just fine for me as long as you do the proper procedure of getting everything out then cleaning the master cylinder and refill then pump the clutch a few dozen times to mix the fluid and repeat the procedure 4-5times should not take more than 15-20mins and you will see the fluid getting cleaner after every repeat

 

Sorry but whats a siphon drain?

 

Correct me if I'm wrong fellas but, this is basically taking say a turkey baster or something similar, sucking the old fluid out of the clutch master cylinder until it's almost empty visually. It makes sense not to take too much out to avoid getting air in the system. Wiping down the interior of the filling reservoir to clean it. Then replenishing it with fresh fluid to the max line. Then you pump the clutch a dozen or so times to circulate the new fluid. Repeat this procedure say 5 times and the idea is to minimize the contaminated fluid with fresh fluid.