Sorry if in wrong forum. Couldn't find a 0-60 forum.

I need help trying to figure out if my times listed below from a video are correct. I'm not so sure this car is this fast from 0-60 (albeit, anything under 6 sec is good ). And I love everything about these cars!

I based the times from the instant the speedometer began to move (perhaps just before). However, in the video, i did notice a 600 rpm lag in the speedo vs. the tach. I did brake torque (launch) the car holding the rpm at appx 2100~2200. When lifting my left foot off the brake, simultaneously as my right foot hit the gas to the floor, i noticed the tach needle jump 600 rpm to appx 2800 before the speedo even moved (in the video). I recorded this with my phone. So the vid is shakey at or just before launch. When i motioned to release the brake and hit the gas, it was hard to keep my right arm steady holding the phone as my left hand was on the wheel (i'm right handed). I'm sure the launch didn't help either. So i did the best I could without a track, etc.

Is this typical to see a hesitation of sorts between the tach and the seedo? I do realize that i am "loading up" the converter and I assume it doesn't take long for the needle to jump instantly (or 2~3 tenths of a sec maybe).

So all that said...should I base the start time from when the tach begins to move, or when the speedo begins to move? If it's the tach, then I can add 2 or 3 tenths to my times, seeming more realistic. But speedo makes more sense, i suppose. Please let me know your thoughts.

Media player used: BS.Player Pro v2.50 (playback clock goes to the thousandth of a sec)

Note: I can't figure out how to upload the vids to the post. Anyone know how? When going to attach file, it doesn't list option for mp4, plus file size may be too big.

Times (based from video) and my opinion of the time:

Car: 2008 G35x, 5AT, bone stock, 32,200 mi.

1st night. weather: 50 degrees F, 51% humidity, barometer 30.1

Run 1: 5.17 sec (seems too low to me)
Run 2: 5.25 sec (maybe...with perfect weather, altitude, launch, traction, etc)
above runs on same stretch of road (pretty level/straight w/o a track).

2nd night. weather: 50 degrees F, 80% humidity, barometer 30.2

Run 1: 5.37 sec (more like it for cold dry air)
Run 2: 5.51 sec (seems more realistic)
above runs from same stretch of road (different road from night 1, still pretty level/straight w/o a track)

For grins, I included a time slip from my 07 G35x, 5AT, stock (purchased new late 07). Slip is from Atco raceway, NJ. June 4, 2008 (less than 10K mi at the time). 07 was totaled in Jan 2011. Hence the 08 i picked up used with only 16k miles!
I do have a good bit of track experience. I only took the 07 G to the track once in 08. But from 2000~2004 I had a '00 Z28 then a '02 SS. Both LS1's, both mid~upper 12 sec cars, (the SS especially), with little or no modification. My '02 SS was lovingly deemed a "factory freak" by the regulars at test and tune night

Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to give as much info as poss. I know sometimes people don't give enough details that could promote further questions from the responding posts. Oh...and did I mention...I love these cars!

 

I figured i would reply to my own post. Why not...

Mainly because, with further research (including reading my own post a few times), and analysis of the video's, I have come to my own conclusion. And realized I may have answered my own question in my initial post.

My conclusion: I realized its probably normal to see a slight difference in movement between the tach and speedo as they are two separate gauges linked to two different areas of the vehicle (one reading engine speed, the other reading wheel speed). So its not too far-fetched to see a 1/4 second difference between the two, especially when brake torquing.

As far as the times are concerned...i took the average of the 4 times and added .25 sec to that average. As an error factor for several variables (video, road, human error, etc.). So...based on all of that...I figured with 50 degree F temps, an average 65% humidity, and a barometer reading of 30.1x...a realistic 0-60 time would be between 5.5~5.6 sec. And that's pretty friggin good for a car that weighs almost 2 tons!

Feel free to give your input on my conclusion. I always welcome and appreciate different points of view.

 

^ nice detailed analysis. The 0-60 times sound about right comparing to many online tests done by many. Iv tried a not so accurate 0-60 calculation by having a friend time me about 5 times and average it and came around 5.2 but it was by no means even close to accurate so id guess 5.5 is more realistic

 

Wow...you have one sweet ride! Very nicely done (saw pic in profile)

I tried that same method as well several times (only I was operating the start/stop on the clock). It was this past winter in 25~30 degree avg. temps, typically with low humidity and high pressure. I would come up with a 5.2x~5.3x avg. myself (one run a 5.1x). But as its getting warmer now (50's~70's)...i did the same test and was getting 5.4x~5.7x. So it dawned on me to record some videos of the runs with my phone. Then upload them to my pc and start the analysis, which brought me to my current conclusion.
And I assume in summer weather, upper 5's would be realistic for my car. Or worst case low 6. Amazing how weather can have almost a 1 second difference in 0-60 and 1/4 mile performance.

However, in your case, with similar weather conditions as I had for my videos, and assuming your friend was in the car with you watching the speedo (adding 150~200lbs), then I agree 5.4x~5.5x seems realistic. But...with your wheels, and intake/exhaust mods, if your friend was out of the car, then low 5's should be realistic for you.

 

Nice write up and analysis.
The second gen G has many reported 0-60 times in the 5's. I'm just happy she's quick

 

I'm curious to see how it would perform at the track in the 1/4 mi.

Ironically the timeslip I attached in my initial post was from a stock 07 G35x I previously owned. That slip was from June of 08, and I only had 8~10K miles on it. Yet, I never tried any 0-60 self testing with that car.

Maybe I will go in late Sept. early Oct. when weather is optimal. It should still have under 40K miles on it, as I only drive 6~7K mi per year. I miss the weekly hobby of going to the track when I had my '00 Z28 and '02 SS. However, its an hr away...and gas was much cheaper then too.

 

Here is a video I made a while back for what it's worth

 

Nice vids, they are under 6secs from what i could see so its right on

 

[QUOTE=willdogs;6737218] Here is a video I made a while back for what it's worth



Thanks! Now you showed me a way to display video.

I downloaded your video, and ran the same analysis that I used with mine. Using the same media player that goes to the thousandth of a sec. The mileage (36K) and outside temp (46 degrees F) in your video, are very close to mine. The video was angled a bit, but not too bad. My results with your video (before adding the .25 error factor) were 0-60 in 5.28 sec...and 0-80 in 8.52 sec. Add the .25 sec error factor (5.53 and 8.77), and its a much lower number than the 5.7~5.9 you have listed on your youtube comment. And that...is awesome! Nice vid!

Here is one of my videos from the other night. I believe this one is the 5.51 sec run opinioned as (seems more realistic), listed above in my first post. Weather: 50 degrees F, 80% humidity, barometer 30.2.

 

These cars are obviously pretty quick in their class but i think from here on out infiniti should focus more on reducing its weight than increasing more power, though doing both would not hurt anyone

 

Agreed. They are quick for the class, especially off the line. Reducing weight would probably be the most cost effective way to increase performance. But I'm sure they can find a way to increase the hp. Torque too...get at least 300 ft lbs out of that 3.7, for the awd sedan and coupe. The rwd IPL coupe achieved an additional 18hp and 6ft lb of tq. by just removing the Y pipe to make it a true dual exhaust, and changing the air/fuel ratio and timing, in a revised hi-performance engine map/tune. They should make that standard for all trims in the coupe and sedan, especially the "re-calibrated engine management system", they already need premium octane anyway (91+). However, I'm not sure if removing Y pipe would work with all models depending on fit. The IPL team could then focus on other performance enhancements.

Unfortunately...doing all of this would probably drive up the MSRP to around or just under $50K. And it would loose its marketability as a luxury sport for several thousand $ less than a BMW, etc. The window sticker on the '07 I had read $39,998. And although I bought my '08 used, I think the original sticker read appx $41K. The 2013 IPL coupe 6MT base price is already listed at $51K ($53K for 7AT). Start adding whatever options on top of that base price, and you're in mid~upper $50K.