is the bolts located on the side of the engine? and is that the headers in the picture with what appears to be heat shields? I'm just trying to get the exact location of this bracket so I can ask how my shop did it when I pick up my car early next week.

 

[QUOTE=XR400R;6942397]I'm in the early stages of attempting this oil gallery gasket replacement myself & I've hit a snag in the dismantle process that has me standing around scratching my head (& the part lower & around the corner ). I thought maybe some of yous guys that have done the job could give some tips.

I've got the power steering pump loose, but it was attached to a heavy, cast iron bracket, which is bolted to the outer chain case in front, and to the block in back (see pics). The front bracket bolt retains both the serp belt tensioner bracket and the outer chain case cover. That bracket has to go, but the rear bolts (I can only see two, don't know if there are more) are buried sos it appears almost impossible to get at them to remove. And they appear to be heavy 14mm bolts, so I'm guessing they are SNUG!

My questions are, are those the only two bolts holding that iron bracket on (in addition to the bolt in the front at the chain case cover), and how the heck do you get at them to remove? The manual says simply "Remove bracket" with no other explain nor pics. I must be missing something, but no clue what it is .I


I just removed this bracket last night. You have to remove the 3 alternator bolts and
Move the alternator out of the way. Then I used a wobble 14mm socket and a 6inch and a 3 inch extention connected together to remove the bolts.

 

Yes, they are directly behind the alternator on the RH (passenger) side, and kind of below the alternator. You have to remove the RH air box/filter to really see them. Yes, you are seeing the RH header/heat shield there. Good eye. The bolts are really much easier to see in the photo than they are standing there. I kind of stuffed the camera down into the fender well area to try to get the flash to illuminate them.

Thanks muchly for any advice/thoughts!

 

Cool! I didn't try that! I hadn't loosened the alt at all yet - still working down to it. I'll give er a shot tonight.

Many thanks, Bobby!

 

Just by billy bobbing it with red neck logic I'd say there might be bolts under the headers. But then again I doubt you need to remove the headers considering shop times for removing the timing cover. I'll definitely ask my shop up when I pick up the car and get back to you. Props for doing it yourself I don't have enough competence for that haha :P the most mech thing I done is changing my power train fluids this summer

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it. But don't bother. I got it off.

Key is to completely remove the alternator, not just aside, out of the engine bay (drops out the bottom). Then those two bolts are easily accessible from underneath. Don't even need a U-joint connector or wobble on the ratchet. But I did need a breaker bar. Darn! Those suckers were T-I-G-H-T!

One thing I don't understand, is why the heck Nissan put a different connector on every elect cable end. I've had a devil of a time figgering out how each releases, they're all different, & usually nearly impossible to reach to depress the release tab. And all the cable-stays either plug into blind holes, or are nearly impossible to get to the back side to release them. I've had to simply cut most of them off. I'll just use zip-ties to secure cable conduits upon rebuild.

I guess a pro wouldn't have this much trouble. Oh well

It's like Nissan never figgered this thing would never have to come apart. Hmm.

 

hhaha true dat. it probably doesn't have to if they didn't mess up on the gasket :P I think Nissan/infiniti has a pretty great built quality overall. Had the problem kept on driving and no damages just need gaskets.

 

Does anyone know the part # for the 3 sealing rings on the shaft that fits into the intake valve control sprocket (see pic)? I can't find these listed on any Infiniti parts site. Don't know what to order. They are very unusual. Not O-rings as such. Kind of flat & fit very loosely into the grooves. I hate to reinstall the covers with the old rings, but not sure what else to do at this point.

 

It could be that they are just O-rings which have aged and been compressed a bit. I certainly would not put it all back together without replacing them though!

 

OK, I'll throw my hat in the ring. Here's what my valve control oil gallery gaskets look like on an '07 G35 wi 71K miles, owned since new & driven very conservatively by a middle-aged lady (my OL). Very regular oil/filter changes with Pennzoil Platinum, & oil analysis conducted by Blackstone at each OCI to make sure oil was still good.

Also, the missing part of the "T" gasket was found stuck to the screen on the oil pickup pipe in the oil pan! Sorry Infiniti, but that's friggin rediculous!!!!!

 

Agreed!

It makes me sick to think how such a beautiful piece of machinery can be absolutely brought to its knees by a stupid little paper gasket. This is undoubtedly one of those instances where the bean counters got their way on the selection of gasket manufacturers/providers.

 

Haha great job getting it off! you were legitimately quicker than my shop haha, mine's been in the shop for 2 weeks already. And you just saved yourself 1.5g sir

 

Thanks, but not quite. I've spent over $450 on parts alone (and a couple of tools I needed to do the job), but I'm also replacing the thermostat, water pump, serp belt (destroyed it getting the pulley off), & rad hoses & cap while I'm in the "hole." Time-wise, It's taken me 19 hrs working alone just to get down to the gaskets, & replace them. Still have to re-assemble the pile-o-parts, although that should go quicker (Oh, please, please!!!!!).

How a pro could do this job in 9-10 hrs, I absolutely can't fathom. I'd pay $1,500 just to watch him do it! IMHO, I would NOT recommend doing this job at home!!!

 

I'm working on a 2007 g5 with hr motor. The dealer says the drivers side vtc cam is retarded by 60° and that they recommending replaceing both vtc cam sprockets #13025-jk20a both are the same part# and both cam sprocket covers #13040-jk22b and #1340-jk28a. Is it necessary to replace the cam sprocket covers? Thanks for your time.

 

^^ That's a good point.

I have exactly two weeks left on my Elite coverage, but no symptoms. (**fingers crossed**)

I wonder if I should speed up my oil gauge install to see if I have low oil pressure already, just not to the point of showing symptoms yet. In such a case, I wonder if they would even address it of it wasn't throwing a code, as I can imagine low oil pressure by itself isn't something that the Elite warranty covers.