no I understand that, but to go from 15K down to 4K over a 2-3K repair job is not accurate. sorry I conveyed it incorrectly...if its a 3K repair the offer should be that much less than the original offer, not 11K.

 

OK, yes, I'll agree with that.

However, you have to consider the "depreciation" involved with a car that had to have major repairs, "show me the car fax".....

 

is it really that major? from what I have read on this thread it is a pretty easy fix for most mechanics that work on Nissan and Infiniti's and to drop value that much for a 3k repair job with all new parts? in one months time...just doesn't fly..I can see dropping it say 4k. but after the repairs I will have more negotiating power on trade in because it will have certified new parts. Not trying to argue with you, dealers just are not as fair I guess....oh well. atleast I now how my dealer works and I won't be working with them period. I was going to them for oil changes and maintenance and this is the first issue I have had with my G35.Just feels like they saw a woman who they assumed knows nothing so lets go for it.

 

Hey, I agree with you, but as you should know, perception is everything and a car that has had motor work is just not worth as much as one that has not had any trouble (in the eyes of the car buying public).

I agree they are being diks but most any dealer is that way.

 

hey just curious, rather than go back through entire feed, got second opinion back and they say passages in rear timing cover plate are blown, does the timing chain need to be removed to replace the rear plate?

 

Yes, just the main chain has to be removed. The 2 smaller chains can stay in place.

 

Thank you!

 

Sorry if I do end up cluttering up this post by posting in the wrong area but it does pertain in part to what I'm going through.

I have a 2003 G35 coupe 90,000 miles and it's throwing the horrid p0011, p0021 SES codes. Well I bought the car with these codes thinking it was an easy fix after doing some independent research... Not at all. My car runs horribly, it will idle fine but has no acceleration or power. Literally none. Like 0-60 takes 12 or 15 seconds. I work on all my car. This doesn't seem daunting to me. I've gone about with the nissan factory guide. I've replaced both Cam position sensors, crank sensors, I took off the valve cover to check if the sensor plate was gunked up, cleaned the MAF sensor, Took off the front timing cover (to check to see if my timing is off, but it is dead on time,) bought test pipes to see if the catalytic converters were plugged (thanks to my idiot dealership were that was there whole diagnosis,) I replaced the VCT solenoids for both banks with used ones that worked. Now I'm at a loss. But what I did find out from my dealer diagnosis, was that my intake cams were about 30 degrees advanced and the tech couldn't get them to advance or retard. I also pulled off the solenoids and cranked the engine and of course oil poured out of the galleys but when I put the solenoids back on and ran the car I did notice. Minor improvement in power. I haven't checked back with the dealer to see if my cams retarded off of the 30 or so degrees. I've replaced oil with Mobil 1 of course but I didn't change the filter. Now I'm about to do an engine flush, (yes I know the concerns) but that's what my dealer recommended and that's all I can think to do. Any help is appreciated. Steer me in any direction that can help. I just don't want to throw a new engine in the car although that's not the worst thing in the world. What should I do?

 

hey infinitidude i have an 07 g35x with 40k on it do these gaskets deteiorate with time also or does it only go by mileage THANKS

 

The lowest mileage i've seen is around 68,000, but I think it plays alot into how well the car has been maintained. The original gaskets are just paper so it really can vary on when they will break. I think it has a lot to do with the constant heat and cool down as well.

 

It sounds like both of your vtc sprockets are stuck possibly due to sludge in engine which is what normally causes this to happen. Engine flush may help but it is a chance you'll have to take since you have been made aware of the concerns. Best of luck brother.

 

funnie, I had an old Honda 550-4 motorcycle. It had paper gaskets on it. I ran Castrol 20-50 in it for a year never leaked a drop. Then I tried Amzoil. That shyt just RAN out of every gasket on the bike. I went back to dino oil and it slowed to a few drips a day.

 

Finally found a place in PDX that specializes in Infiniti since I want to have a place for all my maintenance and repairs that will do the repairs for around a grand, that was the quote, I am sure it will go up but atleast it's not 3300. Everyone I told about the issue being common in the G35 scoffed at me so I moved on. I can't tell you how many places I went to trying to get me to look at fixing other stuff..sucks not having a mechanic I can't trust.Hopefully this place works out...

 

Ok Infinitidude, I have since flushed the oil. I have seen no improvement. I'm not sure how the intake cam sprockets work, like I understand they work off of oil pressure supplied by the solenoids. But do they get gunked up beyond repair? I'm just wondering since I have replaced and done everything suggested and told, short of actually replacing the cam sprockets, would that fix the problem of over advanced cams? Thank you for all your help throughout the forum.

 

what is the best oil to use in the G35?