Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about
#61
I tested my oil pressure yesterday and was getting very low readings (around 8 psi at idle or lower), and revving never got it much past 30 psi or so.
The first Nissan dealership I called told me they would need to remove the rear timing cover and it would be $2700 in labor... the second one I called told me it would be about $1540 in labor, both were adamant that I should replace timing chains/tensioners while I was in there.
I'm afraid to even try the Infiniti dealership. Going to call some local shops to see what they say. I still feel like I'm taking a gamble though. What if the gaskets aren't blown and it is actually something else? Or what if it is multiple problems (gaskets and sprockets bad?).
Will update..
The first Nissan dealership I called told me they would need to remove the rear timing cover and it would be $2700 in labor... the second one I called told me it would be about $1540 in labor, both were adamant that I should replace timing chains/tensioners while I was in there.
I'm afraid to even try the Infiniti dealership. Going to call some local shops to see what they say. I still feel like I'm taking a gamble though. What if the gaskets aren't blown and it is actually something else? Or what if it is multiple problems (gaskets and sprockets bad?).
Will update..
#62
Paid a local guy $675 labor to fix the issue, paid about $150 for parts (some not necessary). Both gaskets were COMPLETELY blown apart. Totally in pieces.
CELight has been off two days now so im pretty sure the repair took! Very happy. Note the crankshaft bolt is a bit*h to get loose but other than that not too bad. Make sure to have two tubes of Permatex ultra gray. I dont see why a local mechanic wouldnt be able to do the repair, just print the service manual for timing chain removal and all pages that it references and give them to the mechanic.
Local shop quoted me 9.5 hours just to give you a rough idea. Ill post a full list of parts tomorrow (for the VQ35HR engine).
CELight has been off two days now so im pretty sure the repair took! Very happy. Note the crankshaft bolt is a bit*h to get loose but other than that not too bad. Make sure to have two tubes of Permatex ultra gray. I dont see why a local mechanic wouldnt be able to do the repair, just print the service manual for timing chain removal and all pages that it references and give them to the mechanic.
Local shop quoted me 9.5 hours just to give you a rough idea. Ill post a full list of parts tomorrow (for the VQ35HR engine).
#64
Unfortunately the oem gaskets are just paper which was a bad design. The replacement gaskets are lined with a metal inner core to keep this from happening again. Mostly higher mileage around 100,000 is when we see this but we have seen it in the 70,000 mile range as well.
#65
Unfortunately the oem gaskets are just paper which was a bad design. The replacement gaskets are lined with a metal inner core to keep this from happening again. Mostly higher mileage around 100,000 is when we see this but we have seen it in the 70,000 mile range as well.
Thanks
#66
Unfortunately the oem gaskets are just paper which was a bad design. The replacement gaskets are lined with a metal inner core to keep this from happening again. Mostly higher mileage around 100,000 is when we see this but we have seen it in the 70,000 mile range as well.
I'm planning on doing the teardown/ gasket replacement myself. But I'm not a pro like you. Just "shadetree." Can you give any tips/suggestions that might help someone who's never done this particular job to get it right the first time? While it's open, would you recommend replacement of the primary chain or tensioner pad? You mentioned one of the phillips-head retaining screws on the gallery cover was difficult to get out. Why was that, and what did you have to do to get it out?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge & expertise!
The following users liked this post:
infinitidude (08-13-2014)
#67
Jason, I sure appreciate all the info you've provided on this! My '07 G35 sedan with 71K miles has set the P0021 code, and the oil pressure is 9 psi @ idle, and 19 at 2000 rpm. Plus, I'm getting intermittent noise on the left front of the engine. So I assume those gaskets are gone on my VQ35HR.
I'm planning on doing the teardown/ gasket replacement myself. But I'm not a pro like you. Just "shadetree." Can you give any tips/suggestions that might help someone who's never done this particular job to get it right the first time? While it's open, would you recommend replacement of the primary chain or tensioner pad? You mentioned one of the phillips-head retaining screws on the gallery cover was difficult to get out. Why was that, and what did you have to do to get it out?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge & expertise!
I'm planning on doing the teardown/ gasket replacement myself. But I'm not a pro like you. Just "shadetree." Can you give any tips/suggestions that might help someone who's never done this particular job to get it right the first time? While it's open, would you recommend replacement of the primary chain or tensioner pad? You mentioned one of the phillips-head retaining screws on the gallery cover was difficult to get out. Why was that, and what did you have to do to get it out?
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge & expertise!
#68
I have seen a good mix of both year models. Can't really say one over the other though. They are identical set-ups on both year models.
#69
Ok update:
If you have a VQ35HR engine, these are the parts at a minimum you're going to want for this repair.
GASKET OIL GALLERY-13533-JK21A
1-GASKET-FRONT COVER,L-13533-JK21B
2 x SEAL-0 RING-15066-JA10A
1-SEAL-OIL,CRANKSHAFT-13510-31U10
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-JA108
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-EY01A
Permatex Ultra Grey RTV
Oil/Filter
Coolant
Also I reccd making sure you have a good tool to remove oil pan and also scrape away the RTV around the timing cover. Make sure you have a hell of a breaker bar and 19 mm socket for the camshaft bolt.
Again, if you print out all relevant service manual pages, I don't see why a local mechanic or someone familiar with working on cars couldn't do this repair themselves. My car is an 08 G35, had problems at around 75k miles. By the time I fixed it (83,000 miles), both gaskets were completely blown apart. Timing chain was still in decent shape with very little slack so I let it be for now. Hope this helps, and thanks again infinitidude for the assistance and correct diagnosis!
If you have a VQ35HR engine, these are the parts at a minimum you're going to want for this repair.
GASKET OIL GALLERY-13533-JK21A
1-GASKET-FRONT COVER,L-13533-JK21B
2 x SEAL-0 RING-15066-JA10A
1-SEAL-OIL,CRANKSHAFT-13510-31U10
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-JA108
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-EY01A
Permatex Ultra Grey RTV
Oil/Filter
Coolant
Also I reccd making sure you have a good tool to remove oil pan and also scrape away the RTV around the timing cover. Make sure you have a hell of a breaker bar and 19 mm socket for the camshaft bolt.
Again, if you print out all relevant service manual pages, I don't see why a local mechanic or someone familiar with working on cars couldn't do this repair themselves. My car is an 08 G35, had problems at around 75k miles. By the time I fixed it (83,000 miles), both gaskets were completely blown apart. Timing chain was still in decent shape with very little slack so I let it be for now. Hope this helps, and thanks again infinitidude for the assistance and correct diagnosis!
#70
We have an early 2006 Infiniti G35 VQ35DE, we need the gaskets for the rear timing cover oil galleys... We cannot find them we went to the dealership and they showed us ones for the newer years but they will not work, do you know where we can get them? We need them and if you can get ahold of them can we buy them from you... we're needing to get this motor done ASAP.
#71
The screw is kind of tucked behind one of the sprockets. Had to modify a screwdriver a bit to get it loose. Some of the guys are taking the screw and matching it up at a hardware store with a allen head screw to put back in its place. You don't have to do that though. The chains or tensioners don't have to be replaced but it is up to your discression as to do this. I haven't seen any chain or guide problems from these engines. It is pretty straight forward disassembly, don't remove any of the sensors from the front covers that cover the camshafts. When disassembling there is one bolt on the cam cover on the passenger side that is hidden behind a bracket. You will need to remove that bracket anyway so keep that in mind. Lower oil pan will need to be removed to access the 2 or 4 bolts that go into the bottom of the front cover. Hope this helps
I'm currently driving/depending on this car, which "seems" to run fine. It looks like I will not be able to tear into it until October. With oil pressure steady, but at about 1/2 the spec level, should I be concerned about damaging the engine by continuing to drive it for a while until I can pull it into the garage & take it apart?
Again, thanks very kindly for any input.
#72
Ok update:
If you have a VQ35HR engine, these are the parts at a minimum you're going to want for this repair.
GASKET OIL GALLERY-13533-JK21A
1-GASKET-FRONT COVER,L-13533-JK21B
2 x SEAL-0 RING-15066-JA10A
1-SEAL-OIL,CRANKSHAFT-13510-31U10
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-JA108
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-EY01A
Permatex Ultra Grey RTV
Oil/Filter
Coolant
Also I reccd making sure you have a good tool to remove oil pan and also scrape away the RTV around the timing cover. Make sure you have a hell of a breaker bar and 19 mm socket for the camshaft bolt.
Again, if you print out all relevant service manual pages, I don't see why a local mechanic or someone familiar with working on cars couldn't do this repair themselves. My car is an 08 G35, had problems at around 75k miles. By the time I fixed it (83,000 miles), both gaskets were completely blown apart. Timing chain was still in decent shape with very little slack so I let it be for now. Hope this helps, and thanks again infinitidude for the assistance and correct diagnosis!
If you have a VQ35HR engine, these are the parts at a minimum you're going to want for this repair.
GASKET OIL GALLERY-13533-JK21A
1-GASKET-FRONT COVER,L-13533-JK21B
2 x SEAL-0 RING-15066-JA10A
1-SEAL-OIL,CRANKSHAFT-13510-31U10
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-JA108
1-GASKET-SOLENOID-23797-EY01A
Permatex Ultra Grey RTV
Oil/Filter
Coolant
Also I reccd making sure you have a good tool to remove oil pan and also scrape away the RTV around the timing cover. Make sure you have a hell of a breaker bar and 19 mm socket for the camshaft bolt.
Again, if you print out all relevant service manual pages, I don't see why a local mechanic or someone familiar with working on cars couldn't do this repair themselves. My car is an 08 G35, had problems at around 75k miles. By the time I fixed it (83,000 miles), both gaskets were completely blown apart. Timing chain was still in decent shape with very little slack so I let it be for now. Hope this helps, and thanks again infinitidude for the assistance and correct diagnosis!
Also, I think the LH solenoid cover gasket is 23797JA10B, not 23797JA108.
#73
Many, many thanks! It does help tremendously. Allow me to ask one last question:
I'm currently driving/depending on this car, which "seems" to run fine. It looks like I will not be able to tear into it until October. With oil pressure steady, but at about 1/2 the spec level, should I be concerned about damaging the engine by continuing to drive it for a while until I can pull it into the garage & take it apart?
Again, thanks very kindly for any input.
I'm currently driving/depending on this car, which "seems" to run fine. It looks like I will not be able to tear into it until October. With oil pressure steady, but at about 1/2 the spec level, should I be concerned about damaging the engine by continuing to drive it for a while until I can pull it into the garage & take it apart?
Again, thanks very kindly for any input.
#75
I assume this is what it typically looks like on a failure? This is a post over on 350Z forums.
Edit: Also a thread over at MyG37. It appears to affect some G37s as well.
Edit: Also a thread over at MyG37. It appears to affect some G37s as well.