Alright thanks Just wondering why you did the JK20A instead of JK21A, cause I heard that the JK21A is the newer reinforced gasket while the 20A is the OEM one. Did I get it backwards?

 

No, don't think so. Can't speak for 13533JK20A & B, but I have 13533JK21A & B, and they are definately stiff, metal-core gaskets. No question.

 

Oh alright thanks, I'll make sure to get the 21A&B for my repair. Definitely don't want it to fail again haha

 

Didn't know about the difference between the gaskets at that time unfortunately and the dealer didn't mention anything about the new gaskets having a new number given to them. I am checking with the shop what they ended up putting in

 

Sorry I hate to hi Jack this three but I'm in desperate need of help.

I'm working on a 2007 g35 all wheel drive and it kicked code p0345 and started running ruff. I replace all 4 cam sensors and it still does the same way and kicks the same code. I pulled the spark plugs and the 3 plugs on the driver side were gas fouled the passenger side was fine. I replace all the spark plug with denso iridum plugs. And cleaned both throttle bodies. And it still runs the same way. I did the edu reset several times with the gas pedal and disconnected the battery also. And I cleaned the mass air flow sensors. Please help. Thanks. I've also replaced the crank sensor and the battery with an interstate battery.

 

Apologies and desperation aside, you really need to start your own thread, This just doesn't belong here.

 

If you drive your car lightly it'll probably never occur. When I just got my car I drove it like I stole it and sometimes revving a little bit past 7.5k in tip due to the shift delay. I think that's when I started popping up the code.

 

If that's the case then I'm a lock. Might as well start studying the service manual.

 

Pulling the front timing cover is a walk in the park and a barrel of laughs! Probably one of the easiest tasks in regards to this engine!


Wait....

Disregard everything I just said haha!

And to clear up a little confusion the car only needs to be set at TDC if you're removing the timing chain and or sprockets. If the sprockets need to be removed to finished this task then the intake plenum should be removed so you can torque the cam sprocket bolts to the camshaft using the factory technique.

 

My shop just pulled off the cover this morning, and pretty much the same story both the 20A and 20B are completely gone. Glad it's bursted tho, if it wasn't I be clueless what is wrong with my car haha.

 

^^ Damn - That just sucks a$$ so bad.

I'm starting to get paranoid waiting to see if this will happen to me also. In fact, so much so that I'm about ready to go ahead and add an oil pressure gauge just so I can detect any future drop in oil pressure. I don't want to wait for check engine light to clue me into cam timing issues caused by low oil pressure. By that time, it's already just a trickle of pressure at idle and not much more at cruise; definitely NOT good for the engine.

 

I wouldn't worry about it too much. Honestly I had the code last summer around August, clear it, added some lucas oil engine stop leak, drove it for a year (10,000 km) without the code coming back on at all, no sign of any problems, also took it on 2 road trips both around 600-800 km. And I got the shop to check my timing chain and sprockets just in case I damaged them and they are all in perfect condition. I wouldn't recommend you doing what I did, I only drove it cause back then I didn't have 100% confirmation to what was wrong. But just letting you know it's not a serious fatal problem that you have to fix it right away and car cannot be driven. I guess it all depends on how much the gaskets are burst. Mine was running 13 PSI at idle and 30 PSI at 2,000 rpm. If you have the money then fix it right away, if you don't then just relax

 

Frankly, I drive the **** out of the damn car; that vq just loves to rev and I tend to give her what she wants daily. Anyway, if I thought for a minute that it wasn't getting proper lubrication during those high rpm runs I think I'd be sick. I'd actually prefer to go ahead and gauge up before anything arises so that I have a baseline of sorts for how things are going BEFORE anything arises. It'll be much easier to spot a deviation that way. Also, if and when the time ever comes, I'll probably be doing the work myself.

 

haha yea that's definitely good if you can do it yourself. Saves a lot of money and you get to know the car better. I just didn't have time cause of school and I didn't want to keep pushing my luck with it. But apparently after getting something this fixed it's like day and night. I always thought my car performed as usual but I'll find out next week if that's true :P

 

I'm in the early stages of attempting this oil gallery gasket replacement myself & I've hit a snag in the dismantle process that has me standing around scratching my head (& the part lower & around the corner ). I thought maybe some of yous guys that have done the job could give some tips.

I've got the power steering pump loose, but it was attached to a heavy, cast iron bracket, which is bolted to the outer chain case in front, and to the block in back (see pics). The front bracket bolt retains both the serp belt tensioner bracket and the outer chain case cover. That bracket has to go, but the rear bolts (I can only see two, don't know if there are more) are buried sos it appears almost impossible to get at them to remove. And they appear to be heavy 14mm bolts, so I'm guessing they are SNUG!

My questions are, are those the only two bolts holding that iron bracket on (in addition to the bolt in the front at the chain case cover), and how the heck do you get at them to remove? The manual says simply "Remove bracket" with no other explain nor pics. I must be missing something, but no clue what it is .

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any tips.