2007 G35 Journey Sedan

About 2-3 months ago, my battery died. I replaced the battery, not the engine cuts out for a second when the engine gets warm. I have seen others in here with the same thing, however I have never found a solution. The engine doesn't die but cuts out (stalls) for a split second right around 1000 RPM. No Engine Warning Lights, no errors codes.

I have tried the throttle body reset, ECU reset, basically the 3 reset procedures mentioned throughout this and other forums. to no avail.

I went to local Infiniti dealer and talked to Svc Mgr where he gave me the typical "It sounds like a blown gasket, we can flash the software, blah blah blah $1500 since not under warranty

Im thinking it has something to do with a sensor and air temp since it only happens after engine warms up, and Im pretty sure a dead battery didnt blow a head gasket

I really appreciate any help - Thx

 

Check your battery connectors. Make sure its on tight and its cleen

 

I replaced the battery entirely - its snug.

Thanks, but this is a known issue, just havent found the person to post the solution.

1 thing I havent done is clean the throttle body - but judging from other posts - its only a temp solution.

 

Sounds like the High / Low function on the fans are disrupting the electrical system.

Conduct an experiment.

Drive around for a bit to get it engine up to operating temp..

Pull over in a safe location and with the ac off try to see if you can duplicate the issue but with the hood open.

Do the same with the ac on.

If you see the car stalls for a second when the fans kick on it's a normal thing in a way.

Just means there's a huge chunk of energy being sent to the fans too quickly causing the surge in power from the engine thus the stall.

How to fix?

Upgrade your wiring. As time goes by the wires corrode, create more resistance and thus end up pulling more energy from the alternator.

Have had this problem with my spal's for quite some time I ended upgrading all the lines from 14/12 guage to 10/8 guage 100% copper lines. No more issues now.

 

Throttle body cleaning is what I was going to suggest. This is not merely a temporary solution however. This is a solution that takes maintenance because of the design. By that I mean that whether you clean it or buy a new one you will need to keep it clean because of the way Nissan designed the egr. The recirculated gas (petroleum) gunks up the hinges of the butterfly and causes sticking. Get some carb cleaner, a toothbrush and some paper towels and give it a cleaning. Then do a throttle reset and you'll be back in business.

 

This is interesting. What wires exactly are you replacimg?

 

Are you by any chance an AC repair guy ? Not trying to be rude, but 2 of your answers to my posts = you gave AC info as the problem - when clearly neither had anything to do with AC. I was just wondering if its like when you ask a preacher any question - the answer will always have something to do with god - because thats all he knows...

If I am wrong -I apologize - you were just trying to help.

As far as the topic is concerned - I thought the throttle body cleaning fixed the issue - then after about an hour of driving - it started again. However, it is clearly idling much smoother, and accelerated smoother, but when I take off slowly - @ 1000RPM its cuts out for a split second still. Possibly the sensor needs to relearn the clean throttle body ? I hope this is the case ... THx again for the posts

 

Not an a/c tech at all..

But the a/c ON tends to draw more amperage on the electrical system its just a way of testing for load.

 

Sometimes if the car feels like it falls on its face on accel or hesitates you may need to have the exhaust valve timing relearn procedure performed. This can only be performed with a Nissan Consult 3 computer. No reset procedure will take care of this as it has to be set while holding the rpms at 3000 during the procedure.

 

Whats weird is cleaning the throttle body seems to have helped as the problem does not happen as often, and when it does - its not as severe. Now when it decides to hesitate/stall @ ~1200RPM it is just a little hiccup so to speak, not suddent temporary loss of power. So, in my opinion, this means 2 possibilities: 1.) I need to do it again, and do a better job of cleaning then do the relearn/reset procedure. or 2.) The car is overall running smoother making any issue less noticeable.

Am I right ? Again - I am no mechanic - Im in IT - I know computers, and networks - so I am just trying to implement problem analysis the only way I know how....

Thanks for everyone's assistance thus far.

 

It probably helped for sure but on the other hand it is hard to sync both of those throttle bodies by doing a reset procedure. If the exhaust valve timing relearn procedure hasn't been performed it may help as well. This will cause a definite hiccup on accel on the V36 models.

 

OK thanks Jason