Brake Judder issue TSB
Brake Judder issue TSB
My brakes started juddering. The pulsating feeling only when brakes are applied at highway speeds. My car currently has 168k miles on it. I saw that there was a TSB BR09-002b ITB09-037b January 28, 2010. Are TSB recalls? or just warranty work? Would I be able to take my car in to see if this was ever performed? I bought the car used recently and there were no brake issues. Happened all of a sudden. I did slam on them hard during the test drive and went through the canyons afterwards.
My brakes started juddering. The pulsating feeling only when brakes are applied at highway speeds. My car currently has 168k miles on it. I saw that there was a TSB BR09-002b ITB09-037b January 28, 2010. Are TSB recalls? or just warranty work? Would I be able to take my car in to see if this was ever performed? I bought the car used recently and there were no brake issues. Happened all of a sudden. I did slam on them hard during the test drive and went through the canyons afterwards.
168k miles is a lot of miles, usually most people by then already have changed their brake pads and rotors by now. You are better off getting aftermarket rotors and pads and that will fix the brake judder issue. You can get the Centric Premium rotors. They're only about $220 total for all four.
I've changed out the garbage OEM rotors and have not had the judder issue since.
so if I use aftermarket rotors and pads, do i need to do the splash shield upgrade? Yea the rotors seems to have warped. there is a blue tint only in the middle of the rotor that looks like heat change. like the tips to aftermarket exhaust that they heat up to get the color.
so if I use aftermarket rotors and pads, do i need to do the splash shield upgrade? Yea the rotors seems to have warped. there is a blue tint only in the middle of the rotor that looks like heat change. like the tips to aftermarket exhaust that they heat up to get the color.
If they are cheap enough, you can go install them, but if you didn't have warped rotors until now, then they probably won't really do much to prevent judder. Personally, I had this brake judder issue since 25k miles and I live in the city.
I have an 08 G35xS. Have terrible brake judder. Replaced front rotors and pads (Stoptech slotted rotors Hawk HPS pads ). A few weeks after judder came back. I knew it could not be the front so I changed the rear to a non proformance rotor / pad. Car is perfect. I never realized the rear brakes could cause a judder.
Yeah, my rears developed judder too. I firmly believe the issue with our cars lies mainly with the pads. Switched to Stoptech street pads in back (already on fronts) and judder is gone. Seat shake on highways is curiously gone too. I do not recommend Hawk ceramic because on both front and backs--judder after a couple thousand miles. Stoptech streets perform better regardless.
Funny word judder, rhymes with studder and the effect is similar. Vibration when applying the brakes is caused by warped rotors, has nothing to do with the pads unless they're installed wrong! Check out our Marketplace for replacement rotors, don't waste your $$ on auto part store poor quality rotors! Quality rotors will run cooler and allow your pads to last K of miles longer...Gary
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remember when DIY'ing rotors to clean the rotors with soap and water to remove the coating of oil or whatever they put on them before installing. also, some of the brake pad bedding procedures I've seen seem too aggressive. i had to re-do my front rotor job after only a few weeks. Second time i had success with the centric premium rotors with Akebono ultra-premium pads and broke them in gently and slowly. absolutely dead steady braking finally!
Funny word judder, rhymes with studder and the effect is similar. Vibration when applying the brakes is caused by warped rotors, has nothing to do with the pads unless they're installed wrong! Check out our Marketplace for replacement rotors, don't waste your $$ on auto part store poor quality rotors! Quality rotors will run cooler and allow your pads to last K of miles longer...Gary
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
Yeah, my rears developed judder too. I firmly believe the issue with our cars lies mainly with the pads. Switched to Stoptech street pads in back (already on fronts) and judder is gone. Seat shake on highways is curiously gone too. I do not recommend Hawk ceramic because on both front and backs--judder after a couple thousand miles. Stoptech streets perform better regardless.
I believe the problem is we cannot properly bed the brakes when renewing the pads and rotors. Even with VDC disabled, the G35 has some funky auto brake biasing crap enabled, causing a change in braking power between the front and rears. I've never had to change rotors and pads on any other car I've owned, but the G35 has had numerous. I've experienced this brake rotor issue on the G35 after using Duralast Gold pads, Hawk, and now the latest to add to the pile are Stoptechs. The Duralast Gold pads didn't distribute uneven pad deposits on the rotors as fast as the OEM pads, and the Stoptech pads have been the best so far, but no combo has lasted more than 10k miles before the rotors accumulate no less than 4 high points per rotation, felt as a speed dependent pulsation when coming to a stop (even at 1mph). The theory I have is that the auto brake biasing system is not allowing the front rotors to get hot enough, and the rears are becoming too hot.
Any way to turn off the brake biasing system? It is causing the G35 to have enormous repair costs. I don't even really use the brakes either... I downshift and engine brake everywhere, and I be very careful to never hold the brakes down at a stop light or intersection.
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