Just caught up on this thread... I realize now that the reset process is a bit cryptic.

I do know that the car needs to be warmed up, all accessories off (A/C, radio, lights, all of it) for the computer to accept it.

Process;

Start with an entirely warmed up car (you could take for a 20 or so minute drive)
turn all accessories off
turn off the car

push ignition button twice, WITHOUT your foot on the brake (car is now in accessory)

Fully and quickly depress and release the GAS pedal five times

with the pedal released, count to 10, then fully depress and hold the GAS pedal

count to 12, while holding the pedal, the "service engine soon" light will begin flashing

fully release the pedal, and count to 10

fully depress and hold the pedal, and count to 10

release the pedal

depress the brake, and start the engine

~ Voila ~

As mentioned, there is also a separate procedure to allow the ECU to "re-learn" its idle.

When I bought my car, It idled at nearly 1,000 RPM. I didn't realize at the time that this was incorrect. My car has the Stillen intake so I cleaned and re-oiled the filters, cleaned the throttles (I see many people advise against this on this forum... I had no issues... take any advice you receive with a grain of salt, including mine) and did the "re-learn" and my idle is now ~650 as I understand it should be.

I hope this is helpful. Also, what RPM does your car idle at when warmed up, a/c off?

-Chris

 

I've noticed mine idles either at 700 or 800rpm. I don't think I've ever seen it as low as 650, however it seems to run better/have more power and response at the 700rpm idle. Why the idle speed varies I'm not entirely sure yet.

It may have something to do with how long you let your car warm up after the initial startup.

 

The 650 RPM idle is fully warm, it does sound low especially in comparison to my former 1985 Porsche 944, those were set to idle at about 1,100 which was also weird to me

 

I just came across this post and would like to chime in. My 2008 Sedan did this same thing for over a year. It was annoying. I took it in and got a ECU Reflash and i "thought" that fixed it but it came back. I changed plugs, did seafoam,fuel treatments etc.. Finally i got annoyed and took it back in to the dealership. Even though it had no codes they plugged it in and it said that the Rear Timing cover was sticking. Luckily i had a warranty. They replaced it under warranty and it cost $990 according to the bill. That issue never came up again on the car ever. I no longer have the car but just wanted to give you that info. And the timing cover was the one on the right hand side if you are in front of the car looking at the engine.

 

This is interesting... can you comment on what exactly was amiss and how they diagnosed it? My car had this issue when I first bought it, at the time the forums suggested that it was the product of a new battery and the original ECU program getting confused when power was disconnected (something like that) I took it for a reflash and it stayed away for nearly 2 years, only to magically happen again one day - I reset the ECU myself and it hasn't happened since. Could be the same symptom for different issues?

 

The sensors inside the timing cover were sticking and it was causing the miss. This is what the Tech told me. The sensors are built into the inside of the timing cover so that's why the whole cover had to be replaced. My issue would happen after the car warmed up from a cold start about 5 mins into driving. But it would go away after fully warmed up. BUT... then it started doing it all the time no matter if it was hot or cold. When i would hold the brake and press the gas at the same time i could feel that bucking around the 1500-2000 Rpm range.That was just a test to see if it would do it all the time that the tech said to do. Mine went away after the reflash also but it came back. And when it came back BOY did it come back. It could be a program issue with yours im not sure. But i know ever after i reset my battery it would come back eventually a few days later. I tried EVERYTHING with that issue. Could be same symptoms for different issues im not sure. It is a service bulletin on this issue that i printed out and took to my dealer as well. If i can ever find it i will link it here.