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This is what i did.. since I got continuity from the clock spring when I press the horn I knew that the problem was the circuit wire running to the clock spring but its a thousand wires running under the dash and I couldn't figure out which wire it was and where it ran too.... So I bought some wire ran it from the horn relay and hide the wire through the engine bay and ran it through the hood cable hole then under the dash and securely connected it to the terminal horn wire... I through in a inline fuse holder and problem solved.... May not be the most professional way but hey it may have saved me a few hundred dollars... Good Luck
Last edited by jaythebeard; Mar 6, 2019 at 09:59 AM.
This is what i did.. since I got continuity from the clock spring when I press the horn I knew that the problem was the circuit wire running to the clock spring but its a thousand wires running under the dash and I couldn't figure out which wire it was and where it ran too.... So I bought some wire ran it from the horn relay and hide the wire through the engine bay and ran it through the hood cable hole then under the dash and securely connected it to the terminal horn wire... I through in a inline fuse holder and problem solved.... May not be the most professional way but hey it may have saved me a few hundred dollars... Good Luck
Thanks. If the clock spring doesn't do the trick, I will try this.
This is what i did.. since I got continuity from the clock spring when I press the horn I knew that the problem was the circuit wire running to the clock spring but its a thousand wires running under the dash and I couldn't figure out which wire it was and where it ran too.... So I bought some wire ran it from the horn relay and hide the wire through the engine bay and ran it through the hood cable hole then under the dash and securely connected it to the terminal horn wire... I through in a inline fuse holder and problem solved.... May not be the most professional way but hey it may have saved me a few hundred dollars... Good Luck
could you please tell me which wires you connected the new wire lead to?
Just a side note from a mechanic (Me). The only horn that goes bad, is one that is DESIGNED to go bad. If you are sure that you have power (and ground) going to it, and still no honk, then it just needs the point gap adjusted. If it is designed to fail, then there will be no adjustment. But MOST horns DO have one. Now, they may try to hide it from you. Put a plastic bracket over it or something; depends how how badly they want you to buy a new horn (🤔 BMW). But if you look around on the thing, you should see a tiny little Phillip's screw sticking out of it, a few millimeters. That, is the gap adjustment! Apply power to horn, and turn that little screw, one way OR the other. You will need a #1 Phillips or smaller. DO NOT attempt to use a standard #2 phillips screwdriver. It shouldn't take very much turning. Maybe a quarter turn or less (more than that, and you're probably going the wrong way). And then, be ready for the horn to blare in your face. You can actually tune the horn, slightly, to a tone clarity of your liking, by using this adjustment.
Technically it's possible for a horn to fail, but I've NEVER seen it, in 20 years of wrenching! This adjustment has fixed it EVERY time!
yw.
I took it to a shop. They charge $200 to fix it. Not sure what they did. I’m sorry
Hey I’m having the same issue and I changed the Clock spring and the mechanic said the Relay and the horn is fine I was just wondering what type of shop did you go to fix this issue.
You can test for voltage at the horn to see if it's getting power, unplug the two harnesses then measure harness to ground for 12vdc when someone else pushes the horn. I'm highly suspect about it being a relay because the V36 sedan uses two separate relays powered by two separate fuses, and the horn is actually two separate horns (high and low frequency).
It's almost definitely something on the signal side of the relay, more likely you blew fuse 50 or 51 in the IPDM which sends power to the horn switch via the spiral cable.
what you need to troubleshoot is whether the "Combination Switch (Spiral Cable)" a.k.a. the "clock switch" circuit in the steering wheel is functional. Locate and remove relay E20 (Horn Relay) from the IPDM module, use a meter with a long probe (I sometimes stick a straightened and shortened paperclip into the socket to prevent damaging it with the probe on the meter) and measure the RESISTANCE (ground / ohms) at pin 1,.
I have the same problem, horn is not working when pushing on the steering wheel. But both horns sound using the key fob.
Can I get to the IPDM Module without removing the battery?
The IPDM in my 2007 G35 is really tight against the battery. Ended up removing the battery and opening the IPDM. Weirdly there is not a horn relay or fuse in it (looking at the cover with the fuse and relays listed on it). There is only one horn relay and one 15amp fuse in the other fuse box (located in front of the battery).
Apparently the infiniti g35 sedan schematic does not match what I'm seeing in the car. ????
