Codes C1109 P1217 and P1212 - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion

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Codes C1109 P1217 and P1212

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Old 10-01-2018, 11:56 AM
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Angry Codes C1109 P1217 and P1212

I had those three codes and I replaced the battery and the car will start and then immediately over heat and then will start to putter and cut off. Is that the thermostat needs to be replaced????
 
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:50 AM
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P1217 - Engine overheating
P1212 - Traction control communication error
C1109 - Voltage error in the TCS

Sounds like maybe the battery didn't get installed properly, did you clean the cables thoroughly? I doubt this is the reason for the overheat condition though, what exactly led up to this. What kinds of problems has the car been giving you. Does your HEATER blow hot air 100% of the time if you have the fan running.

There's a lot of components to the system that can lead to an overheat, you definitely need to do some troubleshooting before just jumping in and replacing a thermostat that may or may not be faulty.

How much coolant is in the RADIATOR, not the reservoir.
 
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Old 10-03-2018, 11:40 AM
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The problem was a hose. It was replaced and it no longer is overheating.

Thank you for your response
 
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:45 PM
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I believe you but for my own curiosity but how the hell does a blown coolant line cause traction control errors....?
 
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Old 03-02-2019, 12:08 PM
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G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.
I have the 1217 code now. I was puking in 3rd gear about half throttle, then at about 4k RPM; I heard a pop and then my check engine light came on.

Drove home unable to get it past 1500 RPMs without it hiccuping. I noticed the car was over heating and turned it off immediately. I looked at the under carriage and change was everywhere. So I cleaned it to figure out where the leak was coming from.

As I turn the engine back on it was able to pass 1500 rpms (new day). Although when I went to check the under carriage I saw a little puddle of transmission fluid as the car began to over heat. I had filled the expansion tank back up with water prior to starting it up. Though the expansion tank level didn't budge.

I was still unable to spot an on going leak while under the car with the engine running. So once again I cleaned up the little drips of coolant to see if I could spot a leak again. (By little I mean no liquid was actually making it to the ground this time, trans fluid or water/coolant)

Upon the second start up of the day, I went under the carriage to watch for a leak but nothing was leaking. No unusual sounds or anything. Just the standard timing chain sound. So I go back into the car and it's not over heating. I decide to turn it off and i see smoke coming from the cam sensor area, white smoke.

Sorry for the detailed write up it's my first post here. I want to make sure all the info I collected is here.
Any idea on why I'm experiencing this??
 
  #6  
Old 03-02-2019, 12:21 PM
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Rent a pressure tester and pressure test the coolant system, this will ensure you don't have any other leaks. I suspect your radiator failed since you're losing both coolant and transmission fluid but that will depend on where under the vehicle the fluid was dripping.

Use a telescoping inspection mirror and a good flashlight so you can see EXACTLY where stuff is dripping from, inspection mirrors are under $10 and a VERY valuable tool to troubleshoot exactly where stuff is leaking.

P1217 is engine over temperature, this is why your car was in limp mode and couldn't rev.

If it's still overheating and passes the pressure test then feel the lower radiator hose while it's running, it should be hot, if it's COLD then your thermostat is not opening.

Bleeding air from the system can be a big pita, read up on how to do it properly, there's an air bleed valve on the coolant line that needs to be opened but the biggest secret is to add coolant VERY VERY SLOWLY or you will trap bubbles in the system, add coolant at a rate of 1 gallon per minute, that's VERY slow. A Lisle Funnel will reduce a lot of the headache as well.
 
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:19 PM
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G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.


It seems as if it's actually oil that's dripping from the oil filter housing. The part right after the oil filter.

I am not sure if my coolant is actually flowing through the hoses as I am not able to hear it swishing around when I squeeze. The bottom hose is also not hot but I only let it run for about 5-10 minutes or so. I will look into the radiator compression checker and aslo purchase the T-stat while I'm at it.
Btw my radiator seems to be perfect fine (unharmed).
 
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Old 03-02-2019, 08:18 PM
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The thermostat should open when the engine hits 180 degrees so the bottom hose will be cold until it's up to temp. Wait until the engine is at normal temp before checking that lower hose, if it's overheating at all (above the halfway mark on the gauge) then that lower hose should DEFINITELY be hot, if it's not then you definitely have a thermostat stuck shut.

As for the oil leak, that part the oil filter screws into is a sandwich adapter and those lines coming out of it go to an oil cooler. It might be leaking where it's attached to the engine but it looks to me that the oil is actually leaking out of the filter gasket, you can see a little oil trail that I'm drawing on in red in this photo. Remove the filter, check the gasket, replace the filter if needed, make sure it's not double-gasketed or just loose.

 
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Old 03-03-2019, 02:54 PM
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G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.
So I changed out the oil cooler O-ring and did an oil and filter change while I was at it. I also changed the T-stat.

Prior to re-ignition of my engine, I topped off the radiator with water (for now) and burped the system. Of course I over filled and had to wait till the water I was pouring in left the scene.

Once the water I poured was gone, there was still an ongoing leak. So upon further investigation I found the source of the leak. It was coming right from the top end on the back part of the radiator. Right under the radiator cap section.


It's a linear crack. so this would explain that sudden burst as I my RPMs met 4k in third gear.

I'm assuming my thermostat had seized up and blocked the flow of the coolant and it just burst.
The bottom radiator hose was also not hot after reinstallation of the new T-stat. I'm assuming this is because of the crack.

So as of now I will be replacing the coolant and also monitoring the oil cooler seals. Prior the the fixes I did in this post the oil would flow out steadily. After turning the car back on I see no signs of oil leakage in that area (i cleaned the area with brake cleaner before hand).

Thanks a lot Cleric, I will follow up once I intsall my new radiator if it may be of use to anyone in the future.

Btw, the oil cooler O-ring seemed fine except that the cooler was seemingly not on tight enough to where when I pulled it apart, the O-ring practically slid right out without being touched.
The T-stat was a bit tough to push in with lowered hand strength which may be an indicator that it wasn't being pushed open from the pressure in the system, just my guess.
 
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Old 03-04-2019, 04:08 PM
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G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.
Ok follow up upon installation of a new radiator.

So after installing everything and topping the car off with coolant, I find that there is white smoke coming from the firewall section of the engine bay.

So I let it cool down, after I let it cool down I checked the expansion tank because coolant was leaking from the connecting hose when the car was up to temperature.

After inspecting it, I found a blockage and also a bunch of degree sealing the hose attachment area.

I removed this and prepped the car back up to be started again. After doing this, the hot air will still not get hot. So now I'm guessing it's going to be the water pump.

Things I've replaced so far...
​​​​1.​​​Oil cooler O-ring
2. Oil and oil filter
3. Radiator

I hear a little ticking sound coming from the new T-stat area when I squeeze the bottom radiator hose (which is also not getting hot at all).

Gonna do more research about the water pump before diving into it. Will follow up.
 
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Old 03-06-2019, 12:21 PM
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I'd start by getting an inspection mirror so you can see EXACTLY where this "white smoke" is coming from before worrying about the water pump. If it turns out to be a blown head gasket or cracked head/block or something then no reason to change the water pump.
 
  #12  
Old 03-06-2019, 12:22 PM
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I'm curious about all that debris in the overflow tank though, usually I've only ever seen gelled coolant because people were adding a LOT of stopleak additives to the system.
 
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I'm curious about all that debris in the overflow tank though, usually I've only ever seen gelled coolant because people were adding a LOT of stopleak additives to the system.
Yes so it turns out that the smoke was just the coolant coming from the bleed valve, and the debree in the resovoir was seemingly from stop leak I've used about 2 years ago.

I already have a mirror btw.
I changed the water pump yesterday because it was leaking from behind that area, and I'm still getting a cold lower hose and cold air coming while I have my heater on. I tested oem stat that was taken out last night and it actually opened.

So I'm gonna have my neighbor help me rid the system of air to see if that can solve the issue (he's an actual mechanic). And I'm actually gonna check my bypass hose and etc for more of the stop leak to see if anything else has managed to be plugged up.
 
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Old 03-06-2019, 04:19 PM
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Make sure you are adding the coolant VERY slowly, at a rate of about 1 gallon per minute. If you just start dumping coolant into the radiator I can almost guarantee you'll never get the bubbles out. When air gets trapped behind the thermostat then the hot water never opens the thermostat. You end up with conditions exactly like what you're experiencing.

I think you should drain all the coolant out and start over again.

Turn heater to max temp and fan on high.

Add coolant until it spills out the bleed valve, close the valve off and start the engine. Add remaining coolant with the radiator cap removed, when engine is about halfway to normal operating temp rev it to 5k quite a few times. Top off the radiator, put the cap on. Go for a very short and VERY spirited drive to remove more air. You should hear the heater core burp on this drive and it will suddenly blow hot air.

Return to garage anda carefully remove the radiator cap with a towel. It will release pressure, top off radiator with coolant and go for another drive. Everything should be fully functional with no overheating and still blowing full hot air.

Now you can turn the hot air off, check reservoir level, done.

A Lisle spill-free funnel helps but personally I don't use one, just add the coolant super slow on initial fill so the air pocket is small.

​​​​​
 
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Old 03-06-2019, 05:14 PM
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G35 Coupe. Plenum spacer, k&n filter, z tube. Muffler delete.
I'm honestly afraid to rev it higher than 3k rpms while I still have the issue due to 4k being where it burst initially.

With everything else said, I was wondering that as well. If I can't burp the system enough, that's going to be my next step is going your instructions.

Although I know for sure i went pretty slow with the filling of the coolant. Any slower and I'd be sitting there for about 15-20 minutes. I estimate that the first gallons I filled it with was in the span of about 10 minutes.
 

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