Fuel Gauge stuck on full
#1
Fuel Gauge stuck on full
Hello, my 2007 g35 sedan has always been having that “ fuel gauge “ stuck on full problem so it won’t mark the gas. I recently took it to the Infiniti dealer to get it inspected & they told me that the reason for that was because of “ AC Auto AMP FUEL LEVEL CIRCUIT INOP “ & to replace “ AC AUTO AMP “. They’re charging me 700$ for the part & the job. I looked around google for the part & couldn’t find what it is. Is anyone familiar with the part & is this really the reason for it?
#2
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
#6
#7
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
The AC Auto Amp is directly behind the clock, take the dash apart and you'll see the component. Infiniti told you it needed to be replaced.
What's the confusing part? Lots of driver information stuff goes through it. Here's a picture of where it's located.
You can always troubleshoot the circuit yourself, remove the back seat cushion, unplug the fuel pump primary harness and read resistance across pins 2 and 5(pin 5 is ground so check continuity on it too), you should have a value of 3-80 ohms depending on a full or empty tank, if it's value is skewed then you have a problem with the sender, unplug the fuel sub-pump and measure the resistance on that 2-wire harness, the sub pump should be 3-43 ohms depending on full or empty tank.
Next check continuity from pin 2 on the sub harness to pin 2 on the main harness, you should have continuity and they should not go to ground.
If resistance is being sent correctly then it's being interpreted wrong by the rest of the car. I'm guessing it goes through the AC amp before being sent to the combination meter but you can verify that signal as well. Remove the combo meter harness and measure resistance from pin 7 back to pin 1 on the sub harness, you will need lead extensions or a length of wire to do this. There should be continuity between those pins and no continuity to ground.
What's the confusing part? Lots of driver information stuff goes through it. Here's a picture of where it's located.
You can always troubleshoot the circuit yourself, remove the back seat cushion, unplug the fuel pump primary harness and read resistance across pins 2 and 5(pin 5 is ground so check continuity on it too), you should have a value of 3-80 ohms depending on a full or empty tank, if it's value is skewed then you have a problem with the sender, unplug the fuel sub-pump and measure the resistance on that 2-wire harness, the sub pump should be 3-43 ohms depending on full or empty tank.
Next check continuity from pin 2 on the sub harness to pin 2 on the main harness, you should have continuity and they should not go to ground.
If resistance is being sent correctly then it's being interpreted wrong by the rest of the car. I'm guessing it goes through the AC amp before being sent to the combination meter but you can verify that signal as well. Remove the combo meter harness and measure resistance from pin 7 back to pin 1 on the sub harness, you will need lead extensions or a length of wire to do this. There should be continuity between those pins and no continuity to ground.
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,790
Received 2,456 Likes
on
2,150 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
#9
Damn thanks for the info btw I forgot to mention that before I took it to the dealer to get it inspected I replaced the fuel pump completely & then the sending unit & nothing changed. A check engine pops up & it reads P0462, to replace sending unit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
iTzTeddy
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
2
04-13-2016 06:18 PM